Finished over the weekend. Zimmerman fronts, ATE rears and Pagird RS4-2-1 pads all around. new rear ATE rotors new rear ATE rotors new front Zimmerman rotors new front zimmermans pagid rear pad pad surfaces. new is on top pad surfaces. new is on the right rear pads. new ones on the left rear rotors. old on the left rear rotor and caliper new brake rotor in palce front rotor hat painted new front rotor painted inside of new front rotor
N I C E ! You shoulda maybe painted the calipers while you were doing the brakes. Did you get SS lines as well? Hows the braking feel? Diamater on the new rotors look larger giving pads more surface to grip.
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Phillips 6000k HID, Lip Spoiler (reordered through different company) Phillips 6000k HID Fog and Low Beam Kit
N I C E ! You shoulda maybe painted the calipers while you were doing the brakes. Did you get SS lines as well? Hows the braking feel? Diamater on the new rotors look larger giving pads more surface to grip.
i plan to powdercoat the calipers flat red, actually. everyone has the high gloss, i want flat red
dont really need drilled ones outback. i just did it as maintenance. i dont need SS lines because i dont do much city driving, no auto rossing and this car isnt seeing track time, so why invest 150 dollars into something i wont actually NEED, ya know? once i need lines, ill get stainless, but for now, OEM is enough
The majority of the car's braking is done with the front rotors (unless you drive backwards all the time). Hence they are almost always a larger diameter, and wear out quicker.
For day to day driving, upgrading the rear rotors to cross drilled is almost cosmetic as the effects of slightly cooler brakes will be negligable.
Slotted, cross drilled and SS lines are great if you are taking it to the track. Then you will certainly benefit from every little tweak you can get to enhance your car.
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Audi S6 Avant 4.2 MT6 2001 Pipercross air filter Tinting Rear Parking Aids
The majority of the car's braking is done with the front rotors (unless you drive backwards all the time). Hence they are almost always a larger diameter, and wear out quicker.
For day to day driving, upgrading the rear rotors to cross drilled is almost cosmetic as the effects of slightly cooler brakes will be negligable.
Slotted, cross drilled and SS lines are great if you are taking it to the track. Then you will certainly benefit from every little tweak you can get to enhance your car.
a-yup! exactly. i dont plan to get things i dont really need on the car. i might get sway bars or something like that, to reduce body roll. im not building a track rat.
Just finished my rear brakes last night. Note: you do NOT have to pull the caliper bracket off, just the caliper. Undo the two 13 mm bolts, holding the 15 mm nuts with a wrench, to undo the caliper, slide it off, then pull the pads out. The rotor will come out from underneath the bracket, which is unusual but damned convenient! Getting the caliper puck to rotate back in was a bear as I had to apply pressure to the puck while rotating it. After several false starts, I found that a pry bar through the caliper gave the right pressure and was out of the way of my pliers. I'm going to have to get one of those rear disk tools, one of these days....
Anyway, my wheels aren't as nice and my fronts will get done later this summer, but thanks for the write up!
Just finished my rear brakes last night. Note: you do NOT have to pull the caliper bracket off, just the caliper. Undo the two 13 mm bolts, holding the 15 mm nuts with a wrench, to undo the caliper, slide it off, then pull the pads out. The rotor will come out from underneath the bracket, which is unusual but damned convenient! Getting the caliper puck to rotate back in was a bear as I had to apply pressure to the puck while rotating it. After several false starts, I found that a pry bar through the caliper gave the right pressure and was out of the way of my pliers. I'm going to have to get one of those rear disk tools, one of these days....
Anyway, my wheels aren't as nice and my fronts will get done later this summer, but thanks for the write up!
Bob
oh yea, haha. that first wheel? we took everything apart. a lot more than we had to LOL the others went smoother. we tried to use that stupid cube. "the cube" as its referred to. dont buy it. its useless. go to advanced auto part and get the master brake tool box. that has the tool in it to push the pistons back in. super easy to use and does it in like 6 rotations.
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my new brakes are done - 
dont kill me
RE: my new brakes are done - 
