Lol. Pretty rough assumption. I'm not going to list my years of credentials and working on things far more complicated than a simple automobile. I suppose you were born knowing how to change a timing belt? Nothing personal.
Since I dont have a shop manual for every car I touch, common sense and experience tells me to ask questions such as this before I start ripping the front end of my car off, so I can get the job done expediently.
I have never changed the timing belt on an overhead cam car. Should I go to Audi school first?
Or you could just answer my question. Even if you don't respond, I know you will have checked back on this post, so you would've really saved some time telling me the first time. C'mon man.
Im just taking a guess here, the cam tool holds the cams so they dont move under valve spring pressure. Couldnt I just mark the cam and the housing before I take the belt off, then re-align?
You NEED the cam lock bar, its much to hard to do the timing belt without it. It could literally take you days without it just getting the belt on. The sharpie of course is for marking the crank after you take off the crank pulley so you know the crank didn't move. Un-less you wanna buy the crank holder tool which really isn't needed. Its a snap with the cam holder though.
I didn't need any special tools for my 30v. I did touch the right cam pulley and it jumped about 20-30 deg. The camcompresses the valves and makes it sensitive to touch.I rotated it back in line and it was okay. I could not wrap the belt around the pulley, I had to slide it into the teeth of the pulley. Tooth design. I changed the2 pulleys and the water pump. The pulleys were okay but for how long? The water pump had a little play in the bearing but no leakage so it wasn't long. 130'000kms.The job worked out okay as the car runs great.B.
The 12V engine is a lot more touchy then the 30V engine, the cam would want to turn a lot more. Even then i wouldn't do a 30V without the cam lock bar.
2.8 12v timing belt tools?
