This car is a non quattro. It is 4 cyl. It runs like crap when its cold...I have to keep gassing it to keep it running. When its finally warm, it idles up and down 1200-900-1200-900 back and forth...I replaced the air idle unit and it still does this but when i disconnect the plug on the back it runs smoothly...when warm...Its still hard to start though..even if warm...Where do i go from here? I sprayed starter fluid all over the vac hoses and there does not appear to be a vac leak. Maybe an o2 sensor? maybe a heat sensor? PLEASE HELP IM SO PISSED!!!
Hey don't get mad...I have been where you are....I had an older VW that would do what you are talking about the fact that it starts at all tells me that it is not the o2 sensor, but if you were to look into your book under warm up valves or regulators...I think that you would find your problem.... On the older Audis and Vw's they actually had a temperature unit on the side of the engine...but I have not had any thing that was newer than an 86...so your might be alittle different but not by much...Take a look at your book and look up the warm up circuit you will more than likely find it...Let me know if you don't have a book and I will see of I can find a site that has the diagram, and guide..for yours...It is going to run great again....
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Life is to be lived, death is to be expected, every thing in between is only what we make it....
Thanks for your reply. I do not have a book, nor can i find one. I want a bentley manual which is what i have for my triumph. Anyways...If you can help me id appreciate it. I noticed 2 plugs going into and area where it seems a temp reading could be taken. Anyways, one is plugged in...the other is 2 wires dangling near it. I hooked them up and nothing. Anyhow, im going to the junkyard tomorrow to find some bits and pieces...any idea what this warm up circuit or valve looks like so i can find it? Thanks!
Ok now that I have seen the type of system it is, you will have a 5th injector that is located on the intake plenum oposite from the throttle intake...It is held in by two screws, pull it out and see if it is clogged or not pushing out the fuel in a regulated pattern, this will be controled by the thermal sensors...that are on the head and in the neck of the outlet on the engine head..if either of these are not operational the venicle will do basically what is happening to you...Check your junk yard and find an 80 that is hit. not a perfect one but one that was running at the inpact...get these sensors then try them...if it works then go and by the new ones...
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Life is to be lived, death is to be expected, every thing in between is only what we make it....
so after a good weekend of wrenching on the audi 80, non turbo...here is what i have done. Replaced fuel filter, knock sensor, cold start valve, fuel pressure regulator, idle air valve. All parts were pulled from a 90 audi 90 but part numbers matched.
Here is what i concluded. The car now runs MUCH BETTER. However...I have to run the car with the idle air control valve disconnected to get it to run right. IF i conect it, i get the rev, drop rev drop thing. Also...when the two wires are connected to one of the temp sensor (the one sensor that reads something ;like 120 degrees celcius) the car has NO HIGH END POWER and is very weak. When i disconnect from this sensor, the car runs fine..when warm of course. I replaced this sensor with a 80 Degree celcius sensor from the 90 and it runs poorly again. I have the piece disconnected. Also...I got the rear plate lights to work but still not the instrument cluster. I replaced the instrument cluster with one from a 90 and it still has no lights. Also, i checked all trunk wiring and can see no visible damage to the wires even with the sheath removed. Anyway, back to the cold stasrt problem...I will check the injector. I also have a good idle air control valve coming in from ebay i will try. It just irritates me that when it wont cold start without the wire plugged into the back of the idle air control valve. but with it plugged in, it also fluctuates RPM like crazy. Thanks again for all your guys help
OK so it sounds like you have a vaccume leak...take a look around the intake and make sure there are no holes worn on any of the hoses...Then get some carb cleaner and spray the manifold with the engine running. If it fluctuates when you spray the manifold then look for more vac leaks...
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Life is to be lived, death is to be expected, every thing in between is only what we make it....
I have sprayed starter fluid all over the place and no fluctuation. What do you make of the fact that the one temp switch makes the car run poorly when hooked up? When un hooked it runs fine. does this need to be hooked up?
Sorry I have been on the road so I have not been able to get back, did the temp sensors work??? If you get the used ones get the set off the same car...they should be semi-matched...Let me know...
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Life is to be lived, death is to be expected, every thing in between is only what we make it....
the car is still having serious cold start issues even though i swapped temp sensors with the other cars sensor. still, when i hook up the sensor, the car runs like crap. maybe an o2 sensor or a bad tems sensor? the cold start injector opens when powergoes to it but it kills the motor when i turn it on with a warm motor. also, i get tremendous pinking when full throttle is utilized. any ideas?
How many miles does it have on it? Does the code read MAP or Hall sensor not detected? Take a look at the distributor, and see if there is allot of play in the unit...
So let us start..with this... Follow the fuel line for the cold start down to the unit that is on the block...It will have a two wire plug on it check the continuity (Ohms) on the unit, when the engine is cold, then when it gets hot the ohms should change it this is working..I don't remember what it should be (numerically) but from cold to hot the ohms should change from open to closed...
Once you have checked that and found it to operational you will need to go further, if it is in-op then you will need to replace that unit...
Operational then you will need to do the same test that you did on the first unit only on the Temp sensors, again from cold to hot the Ohms should change.
If that does not work then you need to verify that the Map or Hall sensor is picking up the signal from the computer...(These sensors are in the distributor.)
So try that and let me know... The link I sent you also has a trouble shooting area...that might help as well... On your O2 sensor it will act allot like the other sensors and will change the Ohms reading, I will see if I can find what it is supposed ti be...If it is btoke the ohms will not change..
You said somehing about it pinging at higher RPM's when was the last time the Timming belt was changed?? and is it lined up??
I hope this helps
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Life is to be lived, death is to be expected, every thing in between is only what we make it....
Thanks for the reply. you are the only one helping me out here and i appreciate it more than you can believe. So anyway, the audi has 190k on it. I will be checking with the multimeter on sunday with the sensors. That is an excellent idea. The audi is my daily driver. It is smoking from the exhaust, some days more than others. I dont think its burning oil though. I think its running rich. The timing belt is cracked up a lot but looks like it could be a bitch to replace. I did one in my ex girlfriends toyota camry and it was a bitch. I wil need to replace it eventually. On another note, I will need to replace the pass side motor mount. The drivers side one was easy. The old one is literally in 2 pieces. Is the pass side and the trans mount a real whore to replace? Thanks turborhatt
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1990 Audi 80 Idle IM SO FRISTRATED!!! - 
RE: 1990 Audi 80 Idle IM SO FRISTRATED!!! - 
