First, I want to say thanks for letting me join this site... It looks like there will be a lot of good information for me, especially since this is my first import vehicle! Anyways, a little background.. I picked up a 91 100 for a decent price... Had a bad engine. So I got my new (used) engine in yesterday, and worked all day today to get the old one out. I am thinking that the new engine is out of a manual... When I compared the flywheels to each other, they look a little different (I think its called the flywheel??) Anyways, since you guys are the experts, I just want to make sure that I DO have to swap these 2 pieces out.. and if I do, does anyone have any tips, or hints as to how to go about this? Any help would be great, and again, thanks!!
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
To me it looks like the motor on the pallet is from an Automatic. You need to swap the ring gear assemblies and bolts. You should be able to just swap the parts out, you might also need to replace the front harmonic balancer or confirm that they are identical.
Thanks for those tips. Actually, the one still in the car, is for an automatic.. I dont know if the one on the pallet is from a different year, or from a manual (I think it might have been from a manual, b/c I also had to swap some vacuum parts from the one that WAS in the car.) Running into a problem now though, were going to have to swap out the crankshaft pulleys. We took the torque converter out, and verified it wont fit on the "new" engine. Anyone know how in the hell to get that out?!?!
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
Do you know out of what year and model the donor engine came out of? Audi used several different Automatic transmissions, 3-speed on some older models like the 5000, possibly early 100 and an electronically controlled 4-speed. When you buy parts from a salvage yard they will often use an interchange guide to see what they have that might work.
Actually in the auto it's called the "flex plate", or "drive plate", but no matter.
I think that the auto and the stick have the same pilot and the same bolt pattern, and I think the bolt pattern has an offset hole. ie, goes on only in one position, so the timing sensors get their signal properly, though you may not have them, as my own '90 100 does not. Still....
I assume the replacement engine is not from a turbo, or the old one IS a turbo. Turbo is 4 ears, 8 bolts, non is 3 ears, 6 bolts. Your pic shows a solid flex plate on the left, a 3 spoke on the right.
You should really have no problem with this swap. They are the same engine, same crank, etc.
Why do you have to change the damper/crankshaft pulley? Short a groove for air, or what? Thought they were all 3 groove, alternater, PS, air.
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
quote:
Why do you have to change the damper/crankshaft pulley?
I heard that sometimes with certain manufacturers there is difference between automatic and manual transmission harmonic dampers. Don't know if it is true with Audi's?
That is not a manual flywheel. The manual is a heavy casting, with a recessclose to an inch deep, into which the clutch plate fits, with maybe 1/4 inch clearance on the radius, ie, about 1/2 inch bigger than the plate is, as well as having the friction surface at the bottom of it.
I can't tell, as your pics are from a different distance, one to the other, but it looks as though the motor on the right has a way larger "spigot fit", on the right motor, though it is the smaller of the 2 pics. Bolt pattern also looks as though it is larger on that 1.
The book for '84-'88 5000 says you most mark the flywheel when you remove it, as some are not made with an offset hole.
Also, you must measure from the face of the flexplate on the right to the bellhousing surface, must be from, I think, 0.687-0.740.
If not, you have to get a shim for it..
The left one, I can't see a machined surface to measure from.
If you remove them, I'd suggest you crank both engines to 0 degrees TDC and make a prrof mark, scratch or centerpunch, to locate the proper orientation, so you can get the new one in the same place as the old one. Again, I don't know if your engine/car has the crank sensors that mine doesn't, but my turbo did. If they're off, you are going to have a poorly functioning engine.
Thanks a lot for all your guys' help. I went ahead and just brought the car into an engine shop, and had them swap in the "new" motor. I had to have the car up and running, and just didn't have the time to try and figure it out myself. I'm not sure what they had to end up doing, but it is running.. (although, he told me the "new" engine sounds like the "cam is walking" ??? Kinda sounds like a little grumble in there....
Now I just have to figure out the other issues with the car.. Im going to search this forum, and if I can find the answers.. I'll post again!
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Swapping new engine on 1991 100 - 
