Hi all,

Last time I posted about a stalling problem with a 98 2.8 quattro I was looking at, i test drove the car for the second time and couldn't recreate the problem.
So I decided to buy it if inpection came out ok, the seller agreed to sell it for $9500 but then she sold it to someone else over the weekend for a grand more.
There's a big gap between the Edmunds' price (8800) and the kbb price (12500)

This weekend I will look at a 2000 2.7T with 99k miles, Edmunds says $12200, kbb says $14900.
Is Edmunds really too low or should I make that my bottom line?
Is the mileage too high?
Should I get extra warranty on the car (e.g. from autorepairwarranty.com for about $1400 covers up to 150k miles)?
I've never owned a European car, is high mileage really a big factor?

Thank you in advance!

For the high mileage, Euro's do fine on high miles. My A6 has 167000 on it. (It's a late 97) Just don't get one that is driven hard. If you can find one that was maintained by the dealer it is a little better too. The dealer really does a crap job but atleast they know what they should be doing. I have the dealer records, Before 120, basic maintainence was performed (30, 60, 90) ~120k a few sensor's, the sunroof motor, and a power steering hose went out (originals). Then I took over (mwaa ha ha ha ha) 140k the ignition switch went, and the water pump (which I think was the original pump (scary!)) 150K new front CV boots (originals) and spark plugs. And at 166K I put in a new fuel filter (original (scary(I was like what is this rusted out piece of OH that is where the fuel filter is!))), ignition wires (supposed to last a lifetime)(original), and a timing belt ( I sure hope it wasn't original but if it was it fared well). Oh and 350 for cosmetic replacement parts (toyota just jumped out at me)

I am really hard on cars so it is not like I am saying you have to be gentle with your car, just watch for wear and repair reasonably and there should be no problem with the car. If someone drove it into the ground as with any car (euro, non), you'll have it pretty well destroyed by 100k. Buy from old ladies if you don't want to get the warranty.

If you can do the repairs yourself, it is cheap. I think I put about 600$ of parts into my car (140k on). If you can't... well, I think I put about 4000 worth of man hour money into my car (and it is hard to find a dealer or repair shop that does a good job).

If you really want to get into it, you can crawl up under it and check for certain things. For instance there are 8 CV boots on the quattro drive so if you want to see 2000$ savings make sure they are in tact with no cracking, wear, snags, or GREASE on them. Usually the fronts go much faster and you can check um by turning the wheels all the way to one side or the other for the outer boots and the inners are right up next to the engine in the back (Easy to find if you know what boots are). The rears you gotta get under the car. Check the front of the engine at the bottom for stains (kind of greasy looking) if your water pump is going out or has gone, the front bottom will have what looks like grease stains from the antifreeze. You can see the back of the cams (the plug) on the heads, check those for leaks. Oh and tell the person you want to see underneath the plastic (those covers cover a lot of leakable places) That advice alone will save you the difference between Edmunds and KBB. (which I have no clue about)

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Thank you for your reply!
I test drove the car today and it ran great! the car is so clean inside out, the only thing i need to do is to replace the timing belt.
I am wondering how much that would cost...

Make sure you also change the water pump along with the timing belt. It typically shouldn't add anything to the labour, only the part. I'm not sure about the newer designs, but find out where the theromostat is located. Some designs have this located somewhere next to the water pump so you may wanna change that to be on the safe side (I'd get the fail safe ones). Like Dan said, check all the CV boots and any leaks. CV joints on some (all?) of these cars come on the control arms (when purchasing the parts). So when the CV joints need to be changed, you're looking at a new control arm! Try to find a good mechanic (Audi specialist) so they know what they're doing.

99k miles is a little too much for a 00, but if the car is well maintained then it should be fine. Make sure you bargain a lot though! Good luck

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Thank you so much guys! really appreciate your help!

Anyone from the bay area know of a good audi mechanic?

You could do it yourself for ~2-300$ (belt, pump, thermo, and two pulleys) I am guessing you are not into that. (if you are look up Shokan they have oem parts for a good price and get the timing kit)

Hmm labor is probably 4 hours ~85 to 100 so 700 dollars for a new timing belt.

I know where some good mechanics are to the south of you. I would say check into the dealers though, they are about the same price and give a very professional service. I hear San Jose has a nice dealer, I know Oakland's is OK (family in Oakland).

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