Yes, but i replaced it with a used one that was for a different temp. Probably the wrong one... Still problem though...

Thanks

Dan

Sorry I have been on the road so I have not been able to get back, did the temp sensors work??? If you get the used ones get the set off the same car...they should be semi-matched...Let me know...

hi,

the car is still having serious cold start issues even though i swapped temp sensors with the other cars sensor. still, when i hook up the sensor, the car runs like crap. maybe an o2 sensor or a bad tems sensor? the cold start injector opens when powergoes to it but it kills the motor when i turn it on with a warm motor. also, i get tremendous pinking when full throttle is utilized. any ideas?

dan

How many miles does it have on it?Does the code read MAP or Hall sensor not detected? Take a look at the distributor, and see if there is allot of play in the unit...

So let us start..with this...
Follow the fuel line for the cold start down to the unit that is on the block...It will have a two wire plug on it check the continuity (Ohms) on the unit,when the engine is cold, then when it gets hot the ohms should change it this is working..I don't remember what it should be (numerically) but from cold to hot the ohms should change from open to closed...

Once you have checked that and found it to operational you will need to go further, if it is in-op then you will need to replace that unit...

Operational then you will need to do the same test that you did on the first unit only on the Temp sensors, again from cold to hot the Ohms should change.

If that does not work then you need to verify that the Map or Hall sensor is picking up the signal from the computer...(These sensorsare in the distributor.)

So try that and let me know... The link I sent you also has a trouble shooting area...that might help as well...
On your O2 sensor it will act allot like the other sensors and will change the Ohms reading, I will see if I can find what it is supposed ti be...If it is btoke the ohms will not change..

You said somehing about it pinging at higher RPM's when was the last time the Timming belt was changed?? and is it lined up??

I hope this helps

Thanks for the reply. you are the only one helping me out here and i appreciate it more than you can believe. So anyway, the audi has 190k on it. I will be checking with the multimeter on sunday with the sensors. That is an excellent idea. The audi is my daily driver. It is smoking from the exhaust, some days more than others. I dont think its burning oil though. I think its running rich. The timing belt is cracked up a lot but looks like it could be a bitch to replace. I did one in my ex girlfriends toyota camry and it was a bitch. I wil need to replace it eventually. On another note, I will need to replace the pass side motor mount. The drivers side one was easy. The old one is literally in 2 pieces. Is the pass side and the trans mount a real ***** to replace? Thanks turborhatt

Dan

It is not a problem to reply, I have been in the situation you are in and it has taken me a while to get things figured out...But If I can help in any way I want to so many of the people in this site are so busy that they don't take the time to help one another and this is what it is all about....helping the people who are of like mind...We all love these old German cars and inorder to continue to spread the word on how great they are we all need to stick together...If the car is burining rich then it is possible that your O2 sensor ison the fritz...or really dirty..there is a chemical that you canclean the sensor with to see if it is just dirty...this is a way you can find out as well if it is the o2 sensor before going out and spending 148.00 for a new one...I don't know about you but my budget is not set up to spend that much on car parts...If the Ohms meter test comes out inconclusive then try the cleaner...

OK, so i have not yet ran the tests but I am leaning toward MAF sensor...Today, i tinkered with the intake area and where the removable hose is that kind of clips into place near where the air cleaner goes. I noticed a circular spring loaded flap that can be opened and closes on its own. I opened it up and found a part laying on the base of the plastic tub. It looked to be a sensor of some sort. A cylindrical piece of brass, about the size of a pinky finger and roughly 1-1.5 inches long. It has a removable pin that fits into the center...so what you are left with is something that looks like this:

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Forgive the artwork. It may not come out correctly when posted.

Any idea what this is? part of the maf sensor maybe?

Dan

It does not sound like the MAF sensor, but sounds like it was a part of the fuel distributor...can you get a picture of it and post it??? Let me know I will look it up...

it doesn't have a MAF sensor its a flow sensor on the air intake and not for the beginner to mess with, you problem sounds like the idle air bypass valve or pipes going to it. also to be considered is the oil dip stick seal because its a sealed compression type so if its drawing air in there it effects the idle



http://images.google.co.uk/images?cl...ages&gbv=2

Greatsuggestion on that I have had many things that I have done on mine...Take a look at what "techbod" said on the valve he mentiond...