2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

I have done the following to the car

Manual ball+spring boost controller
Autometer boost gauge
3" turbo-back stainless steel exhaust with no cats or resonators.. straight pipe to muffler

A chip is on the way along with a new bypass valve.

My question is, are these cars normally laggy between shifts? I'm boosting around 9 lbs which I was told is fine... any higher and I'd need a chip, it'll be laggy, feels real dead before boost then boom it picks up but then levels off severely, I'm not talking boost cut or anything, it just loses all it's pull.. it's not intermitent at all. It's consistent and does not bog. The boost isn't dropping and it's not back-firing at all.

Is it possible I need my timing and/or air+fuel mixture adjusted? What about a bad knock sensor or maybe air temp sensor? What would be causing this? Also.. my computer is SEVERELY wrong, out by about 4-5 psi, is this normal?

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

I would wait for the chip before making any conclusions. The manifold pressure is monitored by the ECU and controls timing and fuel.

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

the autometer gauge seems to be reading spikes of 15psi at WOT in 3rd and I don't have the boost cranked at all. I do realize the stock gauges are inadequate but it's only reading 1.3 bar or 5 lbs, and yet the autometer is reading three times this... so what could be the problem? The gauge is hooked up properly and in the right spot, what if there's a hole in the line? It sure doesn't feel like 15 not to mention around 10-12 i'd hit overboost protection and it'd do a nose-dive on me, it just feels really laggy and boggy. Before I install the chip I obviously am getting this all sorted out but afterwards, once I get the chip, is a stronger spring in order or do I keep the stock one and run a controller? I'm following a recipe to 17 lbs right now

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

1.3 Bar is 18.9psi I don't know how you get 5lbs. 0.9 - 1.2 bar is about normal for these cars. The spikes could be due to detonation and the knock sensor is retarding the timing and/or opening the waste gate to dump the boost. Try running 93 octane if you aren’t already and try dumping some Techron or Lubro Moly in the tank to help clean up the carbon buildup.

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

the stock gauge reads absolute atmosphere, so anything over 1.0 is boost on these things... at 1.3.. or .3 bar it's about 5 lbs of boost

i'm running 94 octane up here and have used many various injector and engine cleaners to clean it all up

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

By the way, thank-you for the replies... I'm on 3 other Audi forums and you're the only guy that seems to be willing to take the time and school me on these motors. I've read up on a QLCC chip and some EPROM reprogramming. This is my "budget racer" as it can't take all of my cashola, the Porsche does that already. I'd prefer not to shell out $600 for a chip from TAP or Intended Acceleration if I don't have to, also sending it so far is a bit hairy. Where can you get this QLCC chip? I've looked everywhere and it seems it was some sort of group buy maybe?

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

I Should have know better that Audi reads absolute pressure I have one of those stupid gauges sitting in my garage. According to my service manual the 89 200 10V puts out about .825 Bar (12psi) @3000rpm sea level. At 15 psi you are overboosting and the computer is clipping the boost. As far as the chip goes its is not something you can do yourself, You need some special tools to do the work. I have seen some pictures of this procedure last week but don't remember where. It involves soldering another chip that rides piggyback on the processor or the EEPROM.

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

Well, I found out what my problem was :D. It was a crappy Autometer gauge, the line also had 2 small splits in it causing a vaccum leak so I was reading 10 lbs higher then I should've been, this was also causing a bit of a rough idle. So I got a new gauge, new line.. ran it through the steering column and I'm reading spikes of 5-6 psi so now it's all good! I still need that chip so I can run some higher boost of course. And I'm getting it put on the CO2 machine to find out if I have any more leaks, it needs a good tune-up, idle, a/f mixture and timing and then I'll be set for now. I just got a hard pipe for the intercooler so I could weld on a new blow-off valve, the diaphragm on the blow-by valve is shot. I think the next step is a spring and cleaning and diaphragm on the wastegate.

Have you ever found out about a total rebuild, or maybe a 20v swap? I'm considering it with the higher mileage mine has, I'd at least like it cleaned up, re-balance the crank, do the rings, new rods, maybe new pistons, a nice valve job and clean up that head real good. Just for "preventative maintenance" when I do decide to run higher than 10 psi. What are replacement parts like on these cars?

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

I have rebuilt about half dozed motors and it all depends on how much you want to do and spend. A budget rebuild can last a long time. If you plan on racing only then it's going to be more costly as you have to take into account any additional stresses that you might be putting on the motor. For the street you can get away with far less in terms of work and parts. I prefer to do rebuilds myself except for the actual machining that way I can focus more on what needs to be done and avoid unnecessary work. A 20V motor swap is going to be more involved. Also securing one is not going to be easy, as you will need a complete donor car in order to get the harness, electronics, etc. Also a 20V Turbo or none is more expensive in terms of parts availability.

RE: 2.3L turbo 10V technical questions
 

forget the swap then...

I'm gonna go to a pick-your-part for another 10v motor and have fun dis-assembling that.

in the meantime... what would you reccomend for a chip?