What signs are there for you to look/listen for, to know when your DV breaks? Is there a warning light that comes up on the instrument panel? Does the boost act differently? Does the engine sound different? I'm just curious to know, cause it seems this is one point of failure when you get your car chipped as you are now running the DV at a higher boost than stock. I am preempting the inevitable by ordering and installing a type "C" OEM DV, I assume this could still be a problem because again it will be operating at a higher boost than stock specs.

Another question I have is, is there any advantage in installing a Forge BOV spacer between the OEM DV and turbo. I mean is there a reason why Audi have a re-circulating DV installed besides making the car quieter. Or am I opening a can of worms that has been beaten to a pulp before?

 

The signs of a ripped DV would be a lower boost, engine not performing as well as before..etc. You won't get a warning light, except maybe when it is totally not functioning? Installing a "C" DV is a good decision, but people have still ripped through those as well. I have the mechanical DV by Eurocode, but Forge is coming out with maybe a better mechanical DV. Those won't fail like the OEM rubber type. Although, I've replaced both my original "B", and "C" valves, and neither were torn, but the "B" valve looked very worn. You can use the Forge BOV with the OEM and all it will do is make the blow-off sound louder. A friend has one and it hasn't been a problem for him, other than attracting the police.

Cheers!

 

So after installing the AWE Boost Gauge I tend to see boosts up in the teens, which from what I have read is about average stock specs? I have had no chipping done to this day so I suspect my seal is still okay. I guess I will find out on the weekend when I put in my new one.

I did read on another forum about this Eurecode mechanical DV but I had already placed my order for the type "C" DV and Forge BOV. I guess I'll wait for Forge to come out with their mechanical DV before I go and make a decision about changing my DV from electrical to mechanical. I think the of end of May is what people are saying for the release of the Forge DV.

So the mechanical DV runs off vaccum the same as a boost gauge. So how did you go with the installation having the boost gauge already tee'd to the vaccum inlet on your engine. Did it cause problems? Did you just tee off the boost gauge tubing for the DV or tee from the vaccum hose for the DV and then tee off the DV hose for the gauge? Just curious for if and when I ever go down that path

 

Yeah, the ecode DV runs off the boost line where you T'd the boost gauge. Problem is that the AWE boost line and DV lines are different sizes. I had to run the DV line, then splice a different T for boost gauge. It still works perfectly fine. The DV sound is different from the OEMto mechanical. You notice more on my car because I have a CAI.

Cheers!

 

Well I get my EvoMS CAI tomorrow (hopefully) and will be installing that along with my DV and BOV as well as getting the APR code flashed to my ECU all this weekend. So I dare say my car will be sounding a whole heap different by the times Monday comes around I'm still not sure if I have made the right decision by staying with the electrical DV and adding in a BOV spacer. Maybe I'll keep that on until such time Forge brings out their mechanical DV and see what the deal is with that. Maybe a few 1000 mile down the track I will be chaging it all out for a mechanical version be it Eurocode or Forge.

So basically what you are saying is that I will need to get a new T joint for my gauge to run from the DV hose. That shouldn't be to hard to work out, just as long as I don't go breaking my brake boost... again [:@]

 

hey quadric
no BOV
i had it it just dellays your boost after shifting the gears
some times up to 1 sec
i had it for one day will post it on e bay
and typ c DV for stage 1 chip
it will hold about 12000 miles
stage 2 just about 2 days of my driving killed allready 3 DV B and C
and you wouldnt have any boost holding at 10 psi if your DV dies
hey have fun with your chip its different car
i had my tuned with just 200 miles
its never enough

 

I'll try out the BOV and see how we go with it, i guess that maybe why Audi placed a recirulating DV on as stock.As for the DV, we'll see how we go with the new type C. Maybe down the track I will have to change it all out for a mechanical version as stated earlier.

Thanks for the inputs

 

So I got my I3 reflash done by the dealer today. I reckon my car feels a little different in the lower gears and seems like it has a bit more grunt under the bonnet. Maybe I just think that cause I have new software and its all a figment of my imagination

Anyways, so tell me, this holding boost thing. I was watching my boost gauge and thought I would post what I saw and how that would be different if my DV was split. Just so I may help others in the future

[This is under full throttle or close to] I'm boosting at about 15 in 2nd gear, during the reving to 3rd the boost drops to about 8-10, then picks up again when it gets into 3rd, but drops again during 3rd to 5-6, then boosts back up to 10 when shifting into 4th (I'll have to check, but this what I can remember when watching it as well as trying not to accelerate up someone elses rear end[8D]). So is this what you would expect to see on a stock engine?

 

Hey quadric did you order the engine cover also, if not i have one in the box.
Also are you still interested in the dog bone mount, brand new?

 

About the engine cover, I wasn't prepared to rip apart my stock one to get the Audi rings off it to place on the EvoMS replacement, plus I couldn't justify the $100 for something that only provides visual content to the car. So basically at this stage (since I'm saving for other mods) I will pass on the engine cover. I actually placed and orede for some stuff at ECS and I added a black DB mount on the order. So I actually have one coming, sry