Just curious to what you all use to wash/condition/wax/dry your A3's?
I did my first hand wash over the weekend. Purchased:
"Maguires Deep Crystal Car Wash Soap"
"Maguires Ultra Plush Wash Mitt"
"Maguires Drying Towel"
"Black Magic tire cleaner and dressing"
I havent purchased a wax or polish yet, since my A3 still is waxed from the dealer.
Possibly during the spring time. Thinking about the "KLASSE" car wax or maybe just go for "Maguires".
Just wondering what the top of the line stuff is to maintain a nice exterior apperance.
I did my first hand wash over the weekend. Purchased:
"Maguires Deep Crystal Car Wash Soap"
"Maguires Ultra Plush Wash Mitt"
"Maguires Drying Towel"
"Black Magic tire cleaner and dressing"
I havent purchased a wax or polish yet, since my A3 still is waxed from the dealer.
Possibly during the spring time. Thinking about the "KLASSE" car wax or maybe just go for "Maguires".
Just wondering what the top of the line stuff is to maintain a nice exterior apperance.
2nd Gear
i use turtle wax super hard shell. it buffs easy and it leaves a gr8 shine. make sure you use microfiber to buff
i reccomend getting a water blade, really speeds up the drying process.
claybar once a year, you'll be amazed with the results. search for more info on that
i reccomend getting a water blade, really speeds up the drying process.
claybar once a year, you'll be amazed with the results. search for more info on that
I thought about the water blade for drying, but heard mixed reviews about it. It looks like it does a fantastic drying job though.
I will look into that more.
The claybar is a must, I hear that. Especially with the debris/bug and mosquito guts hitting the front and hood in the Summer time.
I will look into that more.
The claybar is a must, I hear that. Especially with the debris/bug and mosquito guts hitting the front and hood in the Summer time.
2nd Gear
Dont think too much about it, i'm here to tell you that is the best thing advanced auto parts sells.
That California blade is one awesome tool for drying the car, it must cut my drying time down to half or more and i dry everywhere door jams, trunk, hood etc. 1 blade 1 towel and yes that turtle hard shell is a good wax goes on easy and comes off easy.
That California blade is one awesome tool for drying the car, it must cut my drying time down to half or more and i dry everywhere door jams, trunk, hood etc. 1 blade 1 towel and yes that turtle hard shell is a good wax goes on easy and comes off easy.
RE: What do you all use for wash/wax/etc?
A prewax wash suggestion.
I happen to use a mixture of 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/2 cup vinegar 4 tbl spoons Ivory Dish Liquid.
Wash from the top of the car down, rinsing as you go. e.g. roof, windows, hood and trunk(if applicable)
Upper sides and front headlights and rear gate/trunk
Lower Valance and lower bumpers.
Rinse after each.
Logic is that loosened dirt runs down, so why wash lower and then top only to have dirt run down the area you just cleaned.
Use a synthetic wool mitt and rinse frequently to remove dirt from mitt.
The was solution will strip almost any old wax, dirt etc from the paint prior to waxing.
Wax has two camps, the synthetic that "seals the paint" and the Carnauba that is hygroscopic and "lets the paint breath" Last time I checked no ones car had died from paint asphyxiation. I have had success with both types over the years with the carnauba looking the nicest but requiring application almost every two months vs. six months for the polymers.
Carnauba alone is VERY hard (this is mostly what Tic-Tacs are made of). Most companies suspend carnauba in natural oils like coconut (think zymol) The most Carnauba you are able to put into suspension is 48% +/-
The best way to apply carnauba is with your bare hand so you warm it with body heat and cause it to stick to the clean paint.
When you are drying you should use only OLD cotton towels that have been repeatedly washed. The brand new "Soft" towel you buy from a store contain sizing which is a crystal that fluffs up the fibers but it also abrasive and will introduce swirl marks.
The best is a real Chamois Cloth. This is the skin from the belly of a Chamois (Gazelle/Goat like animal) native to the European Alps (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois). It actually pushes the water off the paint surface rather than absorbing it. Good oil tanned ones sell for $40-$50 so not something most of us are inclined to buy.
And where did I collect all this information... A Zymol tour with the Porsche Club years back. You wouldn't believe how particular folks are at detailing their C-4's. Bet their spouses wished they got rubbed like that.
Or just do what I do, Drive through the touch-less weekly and give it a bath once a month with whatever brand of car wash soap Costco had this year, give it a rinse and then a really quick drive! Enjoy driving your car while others are spending the nice days detailing theirs!
I happen to use a mixture of 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/2 cup vinegar 4 tbl spoons Ivory Dish Liquid.
Wash from the top of the car down, rinsing as you go. e.g. roof, windows, hood and trunk(if applicable)
Upper sides and front headlights and rear gate/trunk
Lower Valance and lower bumpers.
Rinse after each.
Logic is that loosened dirt runs down, so why wash lower and then top only to have dirt run down the area you just cleaned.
Use a synthetic wool mitt and rinse frequently to remove dirt from mitt.
The was solution will strip almost any old wax, dirt etc from the paint prior to waxing.
Wax has two camps, the synthetic that "seals the paint" and the Carnauba that is hygroscopic and "lets the paint breath" Last time I checked no ones car had died from paint asphyxiation. I have had success with both types over the years with the carnauba looking the nicest but requiring application almost every two months vs. six months for the polymers.
Carnauba alone is VERY hard (this is mostly what Tic-Tacs are made of). Most companies suspend carnauba in natural oils like coconut (think zymol) The most Carnauba you are able to put into suspension is 48% +/-
The best way to apply carnauba is with your bare hand so you warm it with body heat and cause it to stick to the clean paint.
When you are drying you should use only OLD cotton towels that have been repeatedly washed. The brand new "Soft" towel you buy from a store contain sizing which is a crystal that fluffs up the fibers but it also abrasive and will introduce swirl marks.
The best is a real Chamois Cloth. This is the skin from the belly of a Chamois (Gazelle/Goat like animal) native to the European Alps (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois). It actually pushes the water off the paint surface rather than absorbing it. Good oil tanned ones sell for $40-$50 so not something most of us are inclined to buy.
And where did I collect all this information... A Zymol tour with the Porsche Club years back. You wouldn't believe how particular folks are at detailing their C-4's. Bet their spouses wished they got rubbed like that.
Or just do what I do, Drive through the touch-less weekly and give it a bath once a month with whatever brand of car wash soap Costco had this year, give it a rinse and then a really quick drive! Enjoy driving your car while others are spending the nice days detailing theirs!
Quote:
ORIGINAL: wchp
A prewax wash suggestion.
I happen to use a mixture of 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/2 cup vinegar 4 tbl spoons Ivory Dish Liquid.
Wash from the top of the car down, rinsing as you go. e.g. roof, windows, hood and trunk(if applicable)
Upper sides and front headlights and rear gate/trunk
Lower Valance and lower bumpers.
Rinse after each.
Logic is that loosened dirt runs down, so why wash lower and then top only to have dirt run down the area you just cleaned.
Use a synthetic wool mitt and rinse frequently to remove dirt from mitt.
The was solution will strip almost any old wax, dirt etc from the paint prior to waxing.
Wax has two camps, the synthetic that "seals the paint" and the Carnauba that is hygroscopic and "lets the paint breath" Last time I checked no ones car had died from paint asphyxiation. I have had success with both types over the years with the carnauba looking the nicest but requiring application almost every two months vs. six months for the polymers.
Carnauba alone is VERY hard (this is mostly what Tic-Tacs are made of). Most companies suspend carnauba in natural oils like coconut (think zymol) The most Carnauba you are able to put into suspension is 48% +/-
The best way to apply carnauba is with your bare hand so you warm it with body heat and cause it to stick to the clean paint.
When you are drying you should use only OLD cotton towels that have been repeatedly washed. The brand new "Soft" towel you buy from a store contain sizing which is a crystal that fluffs up the fibers but it also abrasive and will introduce swirl marks.
The best is a real Chamois Cloth. This is the skin from the belly of a Chamois (Gazelle/Goat like animal) native to the European Alps (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois). It actually pushes the water off the paint surface rather than absorbing it. Good oil tanned ones sell for $40-$50 so not something most of us are inclined to buy.
And where did I collect all this information... A Zymol tour with the Porsche Club years back. You wouldn't believe how particular folks are at detailing their C-4's. Bet their spouses wished they got rubbed like that.
Or just do what I do, Drive through the touch-less weekly and give it a bath once a month with whatever brand of car wash soap Costco had this year, give it a rinse and then a really quick drive! Enjoy driving your car while others are spending the nice days detailing theirs!
HOLY COW man! That is a crazy amount of information, definetly enjoyed reading it all.ORIGINAL: wchp
A prewax wash suggestion.
I happen to use a mixture of 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/2 cup vinegar 4 tbl spoons Ivory Dish Liquid.
Wash from the top of the car down, rinsing as you go. e.g. roof, windows, hood and trunk(if applicable)
Upper sides and front headlights and rear gate/trunk
Lower Valance and lower bumpers.
Rinse after each.
Logic is that loosened dirt runs down, so why wash lower and then top only to have dirt run down the area you just cleaned.
Use a synthetic wool mitt and rinse frequently to remove dirt from mitt.
The was solution will strip almost any old wax, dirt etc from the paint prior to waxing.
Wax has two camps, the synthetic that "seals the paint" and the Carnauba that is hygroscopic and "lets the paint breath" Last time I checked no ones car had died from paint asphyxiation. I have had success with both types over the years with the carnauba looking the nicest but requiring application almost every two months vs. six months for the polymers.
Carnauba alone is VERY hard (this is mostly what Tic-Tacs are made of). Most companies suspend carnauba in natural oils like coconut (think zymol) The most Carnauba you are able to put into suspension is 48% +/-
The best way to apply carnauba is with your bare hand so you warm it with body heat and cause it to stick to the clean paint.
When you are drying you should use only OLD cotton towels that have been repeatedly washed. The brand new "Soft" towel you buy from a store contain sizing which is a crystal that fluffs up the fibers but it also abrasive and will introduce swirl marks.
The best is a real Chamois Cloth. This is the skin from the belly of a Chamois (Gazelle/Goat like animal) native to the European Alps (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois). It actually pushes the water off the paint surface rather than absorbing it. Good oil tanned ones sell for $40-$50 so not something most of us are inclined to buy.
And where did I collect all this information... A Zymol tour with the Porsche Club years back. You wouldn't believe how particular folks are at detailing their C-4's. Bet their spouses wished they got rubbed like that.
Or just do what I do, Drive through the touch-less weekly and give it a bath once a month with whatever brand of car wash soap Costco had this year, give it a rinse and then a really quick drive! Enjoy driving your car while others are spending the nice days detailing theirs!
While I was reading all that, I was wondering if you had a CAR DETAILING BUSINESS or something.
I also like the CHAMOIS (Gazelle/Goat like animal). Definetly seems like the easiest way to absorb the water when drying, BUT....I owned black cars before and always used a CHAMOIS and noticed alot of scratches on the black surface after using the CHAMOIS alot.
And the feeling of the heavy CHAMOIS when wet, grazing the surface of my car, just scares me, strange I know, but seems like I need something softer on my car surface.