audio system installation
I recently bought a rockford fosgate amp, 5.25" components for the front and 6.5" coaxials for the back. All are fosgate, and i also have the correct wiring kit for the amp. Now I am looking for some help from people who have already installed their systems. I have a 99.5 A4 without bose, concert head unit. This i am not replacing, as I like the clean look. I also have the factory 6cd changer. Here are my questions:
-How do i connect the amp to the head unit, i know there are no RCA's.
-Where have people successfuly run wires to and from the amp as well as from the amp to the battery?
-Should I use the existing speaker wires or start over with new wiring?
-Are there any wiring guides available online for the job?
Thanks for the help.
-How do i connect the amp to the head unit, i know there are no RCA's.
-Where have people successfuly run wires to and from the amp as well as from the amp to the battery?
-Should I use the existing speaker wires or start over with new wiring?
-Are there any wiring guides available online for the job?
Thanks for the help.
I put an Alpine Type-R 10", and an Alpine 500x1 mono amp in mine.
To connect the amp to the headunit, you are going to have to use line level converter's. It's a small box, that has wires coming out one side, and a set of RCA connections on the other. Simply run the RCA from the AMP to the small box, and then connect the wires to any (+ & -) lead on your stock stereo system. For mine, I disconnected the stock subwoofer that was in the car, which is tucked up above the cargo area in the trunk. I stripped down the wires, and connected them to the line level converter. What's the point of having two mismatched sub's hitting at the same time right? Everything worked out great for me. If you have never done this, it might be a little confusing, and you might damage something permanently.
To run the power lead to the battery, there is a rubber grommet in the engine bay, on the driver side, about half way down. You can see it if you are standing on the driver side of the engine bay, looking down. Pop this out, and it leaves you with a hole that's about 1 inch in diamater, to pass cables thru. It comes out on the inside of your car, by the break and gas pedals.
The existing wires should be just fine, unless you plan on putting a new amp to your component speakers. Always use the appropriate guage wire for the ammount of electricity you are going to be passing thru it.
Hope this helps...
To connect the amp to the headunit, you are going to have to use line level converter's. It's a small box, that has wires coming out one side, and a set of RCA connections on the other. Simply run the RCA from the AMP to the small box, and then connect the wires to any (+ & -) lead on your stock stereo system. For mine, I disconnected the stock subwoofer that was in the car, which is tucked up above the cargo area in the trunk. I stripped down the wires, and connected them to the line level converter. What's the point of having two mismatched sub's hitting at the same time right? Everything worked out great for me. If you have never done this, it might be a little confusing, and you might damage something permanently.
To run the power lead to the battery, there is a rubber grommet in the engine bay, on the driver side, about half way down. You can see it if you are standing on the driver side of the engine bay, looking down. Pop this out, and it leaves you with a hole that's about 1 inch in diamater, to pass cables thru. It comes out on the inside of your car, by the break and gas pedals.
The existing wires should be just fine, unless you plan on putting a new amp to your component speakers. Always use the appropriate guage wire for the ammount of electricity you are going to be passing thru it.
Hope this helps...
Yes, I would recommend running new wire, esp if you'll be putting 50-75 watts RMS to the speakers. The stock wires can handle it, but I noticed a difference when I went from stock to 16 guage to each component. you may want to consider biamping your front components and running the rear speakers off the factory stereo... Your tweeters will be really bright if you leave them in stock locations, so you'll need to kick up the mids, and biamping is a good way to dial it in... plus it sounds better...
my amp is 75W x 4 @4ohms, so i was gonna just use it to power everything...components are around 100 rms for front and the rears are 60, so i think i can tune the amp to make the front get more power than the back. this make sense to everyone or am i retarded
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




