Okay, I did not know the gains were only during boost..wasn't clear on how the chip tuned the performance.

My car is a tip unfortunately.

And I don't know where to check for leaks if anywhere... perhaps it will take longer than 5 days in some cases? There are no fault codes that I'm getting.

Is it still supposed to be slow off the line? I mean if you're increasing boost as you say, then it must have increased power overall because that is how boost is created.

 

like you said youre not feeling anything, then you probably have a boost leak. get a gauge and see whats going on.

could be bad turbo or a few other things.

 

I think I'll just drive it a couple more days. My turbo does work by all means but it's just not amazing. If nothing happens, I'll consider a boost gauge.. could you save me the trouble and let me know what should I be boosting at?

 

You should definitely feel the difference. It is not subtle. And it won't be like nothing..nothing...OK at this RPM I feel it. Not sure but I think the chip also adjusts throttle body response and possibly air/fuel. Your take-offs should be noticeably faster. There is some hardware or software prob -- contact your rep.

 

well if you havent noticed any gains the first few days, then you wont magically notice anything later. if you have a leak its not going to fix itself. ya know. so i suggest just getting a boost guage asap so that way you can start eating away at the problem.
i think you should be boosting at 17-18-19 spiking 20/21. stock is 3-6 i believe. its a huge difference, theres no way that you cant feel anything.

 

You summed it up in your original message, whgen you said "I heard the difference was supposed to be like night and day."

It really should be very noticable. Since it is not, either something went wrong with the flash, or there is another problem, such as a boost leak. triple-check the install of the DV, if you did not do it, take it back to the shop that did alk the work, they screwed up somewhere.

 

Can you switch modes? I am only familiar with APR products, but APR chips can switch between stock (program 1, usually) and chipped (prog 2). If you have multiple modes, I would also check that. The stuff about a possible leak I am not so sure about. It's something to check, but with a leak you probably would have less pep before chip too, and would still tell the difference after chip. More likely you are not really chipped...hardware or software prob.

 

they had to order one that was chipped to replace mine, but I hear yuh about the boost leak not being a factor

 

So they intended to put a chipped ECU in your car, and maybe they did, but my point is some point in the chain may have beencompromised -- you could have a non-chipped ECU by accident, mistake, or neglect, such as if the wrong ECU was pulled from the shelf prior to shipping, or got mixed up at some other point between the source and your car, or maybe even the wrong software was put in. Maybe the manufacturer of the replacement ECU (or its chip) connected it to whatever gizmo that is supposed to install the software, andit didn't do it correctly. Heck, it could even be like when you pay for an oil change and they don't reallydo the work, thinking you won't know (doubtful, but theoretically possible). Those other things might be a cause, but I would start with the most obvious cause (whatever they installed being wrong/faulty/incorrect/mixed up) before working thru some more remote causes.

 

I had a simalar situation, MAKE SURE THE VACUMM HOSE FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO THE DV DOESN'T HAVE HOLES. mine did, and the chip diddn't make a difference untill i fixed the line.