Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

I am attempting to change my rear brake pads for the first time. I have a 1999.5 Audi A4 1.8T (awd, manual, sport) and I read somewhere that the rear caliper pistons need to be screwed/twisted in while compressing (with a special tool) as oppose to just compressing the piston. I want to find this out before I take everything off and if I need a special part, want to have it while my car is still drivable.

Can anyone who has changed their rear brake pads confirm or deny this? (Sounds like a court question)

In addition, I know this really sounds stupid, but I cannot for the life of me find the spark plugs on the car. Can someone direct me to a picture of the engine that shows this? I am so embarrassed to ask, but even after buying the Chilton book for the car, I could not find them and I am swallowing my pride to ask this question. I had an Audi 100 CS (1994) before and had no problem changing those plugs.

Thanks!

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

Yes you need the tool or something like it to screw the piston back in. It is part of the mechanisum that self adjusts the park brake, it is pretty easy to find on at auto parts stores. As for the spark plugs this is just a shot in the dark but take the pretty plastic cover of the moter and look right on top of the head, I'm not sure if your car has coil packs or wires but they should be pretty easy to locate once you get the cover off.

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

http://www.ccw-tools.co.uk/catalogue/previews/VS039.jpg

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

Jest's pic is what you need. It's called a caliper cube, it's got different nubs that fit into the slots in the caliper piston. The side you will need is the one with four nubs. The only problem is that your caliper has only two grooves in it. I had to grind down two of the nubs to get it to work. I used mine two days ago to put on new rear pads.

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

Is this something I could get at Checker or Autozone or Napa Auto parts? Anything else I should have or know about before I attempt this?

Also, are the spark plugs located below the coil packs? They look pretty easy to remove (the coil packs that is) but is there anything tricky I should be wary of?

Thanks for all of your prompt responses.

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

autozone carries them

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

On a 4 cylinder engine , pull up on each ignition coil. The spark plug is then exposed. Thread new plug by hand without leverage , preventing cross-threading. Then torque to 22 pound-feet. I've used a needle nose pliers to screw the rear piston.

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

It looks like you got the info on the rear brakes...somethin Ive always wanted to do just never thought I could...I guess..lol

I did my spark plugs recently...check the ping ping post...and Im still tryin to figure out why my engine is makin wierd noises...the plugs were easy to put in after I new to remove the engine cover etc.. but let me know how it works for you...what kind of plugs are you using??

-Todd

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

Guys, those that installed brake pads. What pads did you use or like? My service recommended me semi-metalic. So I am looking to put them on real wheels soon. Cost about $40.

RE: Questions on first time rear brake pad change, spark plug location...
 

The easiest, safest way to retract those rear brake pistons is with a rotating compression tool, such as the Harbor Freight universal kit I bought on eBay for $20. Both sides turn clockwise as they go in, i.e., they are NOT mirror images of each other, as I would have anticipated.

Changing the spark plugs is easy, but I recommend using antiseize on the threads and a torque wrench when installing the new ones, to avoid damaging that very expensive cylinder head.