Should I attempt to change my own shocks?
Subject car is '01 A4 Quattro, std suspension.
I am just not happy with the quotes I am getting ($1200-1500) when I can buy the Bilsteins for less than 500 delivered ... I am not formally trained, and have no tool more specialized than a torque wrench, but am very tempted. Let it go and support the local economy or try it myself?
Any advice appreciated...
I am just not happy with the quotes I am getting ($1200-1500) when I can buy the Bilsteins for less than 500 delivered ... I am not formally trained, and have no tool more specialized than a torque wrench, but am very tempted. Let it go and support the local economy or try it myself?
Any advice appreciated...
It would be wise to have someone with you that has done it before.
However, it is not a hard job if you have the needed tools. There are plenty of writeups on AudiWorld that will keep you on track.
Its good to have a 2nd person around just for a helping hand also.
From memory of my last install this is what you will need...
Tools:
Spring compressors
18mm, 17mm open end wrench
18mm, 13mm socket
breaker bar
jack
jackstands
7mm hex wrench/allen
Suggested: air compressor and impact wrench. Doing this job by ratchet in hand is a major pain.
However, it is not a hard job if you have the needed tools. There are plenty of writeups on AudiWorld that will keep you on track.
Its good to have a 2nd person around just for a helping hand also.
From memory of my last install this is what you will need...
Tools:
Spring compressors
18mm, 17mm open end wrench
18mm, 13mm socket
breaker bar
jack
jackstands
7mm hex wrench/allen
Suggested: air compressor and impact wrench. Doing this job by ratchet in hand is a major pain.
ORIGINAL: ImolaS4
What brrman said... I've done a few now and they keep getting easier to do. Block off the whole day, but it will probably take a half day. Good luck.
What brrman said... I've done a few now and they keep getting easier to do. Block off the whole day, but it will probably take a half day. Good luck.
Anyway, thank goodness for the people at Tire Rack. I was pounding around looking at springs and such, popped over to tires, looked at installers, and low and behold the same folks I got the $1350 quote from for 4 Bilsteins and alignment are a Tire Rack installer. So I call them and after a little bit of "let me put you on hold" they come back and will indeed install suspension parts from Tire Rack, and still warranty the labor! And this installer is referenced by a local consumer advocates' approved list.
Choices at Tire Rack are a little limited for a stock A4, but I am opting for H&R sport springs (lowering is modest, this is important to me) and Koni yellows... the Tire Rack phone support mentioned Eibachs maintained more of the comfort ride but that's exactly what I want to get away from - base A4s wallow like pigs.
So now I have 4 H&R's, Koni yellows, 4 tires, alignment, one appointment, AND labor guaranteed, for $1850 - its like getting free springs and Konis instead of Bilsteins too boot!
Life is good and thx to all - you made me work the problem...
Excellent!
You will be most impressed with the H&R choice. Make sure you measure the stock height now and put those measurements in a safe place. Best way to do it is to (obviously park on level ground) measure from the center of the hub to the top most part of the fender lip arch. If that is too hard to do, then from the ground up to the arch lip is fine. Make note of what wheels and tires were mounted when the measurements were taken, too. This way no discrepencies are left to guesswork.
These measurements are good for two reasons.
1. You will always have a reference point for what "stock" height was.
2. You can reference how much drop you actually have or want to get.
With coilovers you have the choice of heights, so these original measurements will come in handy when and if you want to adjust the heights.
Final Note: Most of us would agree to keep the relative height (front to back) the same so that weight bias remains the same as stock.
You will be most impressed with the H&R choice. Make sure you measure the stock height now and put those measurements in a safe place. Best way to do it is to (obviously park on level ground) measure from the center of the hub to the top most part of the fender lip arch. If that is too hard to do, then from the ground up to the arch lip is fine. Make note of what wheels and tires were mounted when the measurements were taken, too. This way no discrepencies are left to guesswork.
These measurements are good for two reasons.
1. You will always have a reference point for what "stock" height was.
2. You can reference how much drop you actually have or want to get.
With coilovers you have the choice of heights, so these original measurements will come in handy when and if you want to adjust the heights.
Final Note: Most of us would agree to keep the relative height (front to back) the same so that weight bias remains the same as stock.
I heard you might need a new front sway bar to keep the driveshaft from hitting the old sway bar. Did you look into anti-roll bars? They are expensive and i think they might be a "DIY" if you can borrow a lift. Tell me how you like it.
thats what H&R said.
"An H&R sway bar is the perfect compliment to any vehicle when lowered. For Volkswagen MKIV owners, if the vehicle is lowered more than 1.4” or even as little as 1” and the car is driven aggressively, you will most likely have a problem with the smaller OEM front sway bar rubbing on the drive shafts. H&R bars are designed with lowering in mind and will work with any aftermarket suspension system to completely eliminate contact with the drive shafts. All Sway Bar kits have precision forged ends and include bushings made from an exclusive urethane/Teflon composite that eliminate squeaks, and don't require lubrication, ever! That means no mess, no maintenance-just bolt in H&R Sway Bars and go! Like all H&R components, H&R Sway Bars are 100% made in Germany, and are powder coated for long-lasting good looks."
"An H&R sway bar is the perfect compliment to any vehicle when lowered. For Volkswagen MKIV owners, if the vehicle is lowered more than 1.4” or even as little as 1” and the car is driven aggressively, you will most likely have a problem with the smaller OEM front sway bar rubbing on the drive shafts. H&R bars are designed with lowering in mind and will work with any aftermarket suspension system to completely eliminate contact with the drive shafts. All Sway Bar kits have precision forged ends and include bushings made from an exclusive urethane/Teflon composite that eliminate squeaks, and don't require lubrication, ever! That means no mess, no maintenance-just bolt in H&R Sway Bars and go! Like all H&R components, H&R Sway Bars are 100% made in Germany, and are powder coated for long-lasting good looks."
Sway bar is definitely not needed for an aftermarket suspension.
Not to mention most will increase understeer and change the feel
of the car's balance. So only upgrade the sway bars if you know
what you are looking for in terms of handling.
What you read on H&R's site is no more than a sales pitch.
Excellent news on the shopping list, DarkHelmet. I've dealt with
TireRack before. First rate company.
Not to mention most will increase understeer and change the feel
of the car's balance. So only upgrade the sway bars if you know
what you are looking for in terms of handling.
What you read on H&R's site is no more than a sales pitch.
Excellent news on the shopping list, DarkHelmet. I've dealt with
TireRack before. First rate company.


