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SONY amp and sub

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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #31  
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i HIGHLY reccomend that lip sandnsnow. It's an M3 lip that u can get all over ebay just so u kno.
 
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 10:51 PM
  #32  
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ORIGINAL: 98 A4 Turbo

ok i see wat ur sayin. on my old sub, I have 2 +/- connections. but they are wired together and then only one of those connections is also connected to the amp. Is that the setup ur talkin bout b6?
That's it. Hooking up a 2 ohm stable amp to one single voice coil sub is just wasting unused amp capacity. Since there's little or no price difference in single voice vs. dual voice subs (at least in the case of Polk) there's no reason to go single voice.

FYI, I have the Polk/Momo MM2014DVC, installed with the optional Momo designed grill. Looks and sounds awesome.



[IMG]local://upfiles/10798/15A2DDEA0AD44F41B936AD1FCD96815D.jpg[/IMG]
 
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:02 PM
  #33  
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Ok, I think i got it now... thanks a ton for all u who helped. Ill let you kno how the finished product comes out!!


-Matt
 
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:29 PM
  #34  
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Sure, that would work fine. You can also get a sub with a lower power handling capacity, if you don't plan on pushing the amp to the max. The less you push the amp, the cleaner the sound (i.e. the lower the distortion). I'm running a 500 watt RMS amp with a speaker rated at 300 watts RMS.
 
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:33 PM
  #35  
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i like it vit
 
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:41 PM
  #36  
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B6, u answered my last question before i could ask it haha. Thanks a lot for ur help! I think my knowledge on subs has tripled in the past hr. Thanks again all!!

Oh, and nice signature editing job Audi05 haha


-Matt
 
Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:09 AM
  #37  
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Just one last piece of advice for a good sub installation - make sure the enclosure is rock solid. Any movement will rob you of sound pressure (aka volume), and also muddy the sound. If you think about it, a sub installation is all about moving a cone to create pressure waves. Your cone is pretty small and light, compared to the enclosure the speaker is mounted in so moving the enclosure takes alot more power than moving the cone. Any movement of the enclosure will therefore waste huge amounts of the power from your amp, power that would otherwise be spent moving the cone. This is why a really good single 10 inch sub installation can potentially outperform a dual 12 inch in a box that's just rattling around in the trunk.
 
Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:45 AM
  #38  
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I agree with most others here... sony sound equipment is far from the mark. Sony has distinguished itself in both the audio and video market- however they distinguished themselves positivly in the video market. I used to have a set of Sony 8" hex subs- and they sounded mediocre at best. There wasn't any range and sounded poorly. To top it all off one of them "blew" due to a little more than average moisture. Yuck- I'll never buy Sony audio again.

I used to have a single MTX 8000 12" sub- possibly the best single sub system I've owned.

But, my recommendation would be for a nice set of JL's. I used to push two JL W3 12's in a sealed box with a Fosgate 800 amp. Great combination and with a .5farad cap I was able to hit 138db in a shitty 91 celica. Great stuff whether you're looking for volume or clarity or both.

Just my two sense...
 
Old Dec 13, 2005 | 01:17 AM
  #39  
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definitely... thanks tealetm. JL is no doubt a top contender.

B6... do u mean i should insulate the box that the sub goes into?? I was going to do that n e way... just making sure thats what u mean.
 
Old Dec 13, 2005 | 03:02 AM
  #40  
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Make sure the sub is properly secured so that it does not move. I have a builtin custom enclosure bolted solidly to the body, but with a box in the trunk you'll need to do something a little different like these brackets. I would understand if you didn't want to drill into the floor of the trunk, in which case spikes to at least grip into the carpet would be better than nothing.
 



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