03 A6 Timing Belt
#1
03 A6 Timing Belt
So, I am not a mechanic by profession, but I enjoy taking things apart and putting them back together. My local garage wants ~$1400 for a timing belt job. I can get the parts and rent the tools from Blauparts for ~$600. Is this a DIY for someone who just does basic maintenance? I have seen videos and read up on the procedure to the point where I have myself convinced that this is something that I can do. I just need a little push in either direction. The shop says its about a 6 hour job. I would plan on dedicating at least 12-24 hours of my time given my inexperience. So any thoughts?
#2
It may seem like a lot of work, but it's pretty straight forward, actually. I did my first timing belt job over the course of 4 days after work. I'd do a few hours of work here and there. I would estimate if I did it start to finish without any real BS breaks, then 6 to 7 hours seems about right.
Give it a go and if you hit any snags that's what the forums are for.
Give it a go and if you hit any snags that's what the forums are for.
#3
It's an excellent excuse to buy more tools!
It's a job a DIY'er can tackle, but it's best to be prepared. Do your homework on how to put the lock carrier into service position, & what parts & tools you will need. Audi likes to use lots of metric torx & alan head bolts, so be sure you have them on hand. Blauparts may rent the tools, but I think they have a fixed timespan, so if you overshoot the time it cost more. I was debating the same issue several years ago (rent or buy). I bought, & am glad I did. My son & I have had the front end on & off ~4-5 times. Long story, but lesson-learned is to make sure prior owner didn't put cam chain tensioners on the wrong side. Relative to my experience with 2000 A6 2.7T, the unique tools you'll need are cam lock bar (~$75), crank lock pin (~15), cam chain tensioner tool (~$20, if you plan on changing cam seals or cam chain tensioner seals, while you're close). Will also need a 2 jaw puller for pulling cam sprocket off camshaft, jack stands, etc. Of course, torque wrenches when re-assembly.
AND don't forget the beer...preferably after you're done working on it.
It's a job a DIY'er can tackle, but it's best to be prepared. Do your homework on how to put the lock carrier into service position, & what parts & tools you will need. Audi likes to use lots of metric torx & alan head bolts, so be sure you have them on hand. Blauparts may rent the tools, but I think they have a fixed timespan, so if you overshoot the time it cost more. I was debating the same issue several years ago (rent or buy). I bought, & am glad I did. My son & I have had the front end on & off ~4-5 times. Long story, but lesson-learned is to make sure prior owner didn't put cam chain tensioners on the wrong side. Relative to my experience with 2000 A6 2.7T, the unique tools you'll need are cam lock bar (~$75), crank lock pin (~15), cam chain tensioner tool (~$20, if you plan on changing cam seals or cam chain tensioner seals, while you're close). Will also need a 2 jaw puller for pulling cam sprocket off camshaft, jack stands, etc. Of course, torque wrenches when re-assembly.
AND don't forget the beer...preferably after you're done working on it.
Last edited by CRuby; 10-21-2013 at 06:40 PM.
#5
I would also try and get your hands on a triple square bit set as Audi uses them here and there around the car. Nothing like trying to get one of those out with a torx bit and stripping it and only then realizing it was a triple square head! The timing belt job on a 2.7T doesn't require them, but there are other tasks that do.
#6
I would also try and get your hands on a triple square bit set as Audi uses them here and there around the car. Nothing like trying to get one of those out with a torx bit and stripping it and only then realizing it was a triple square head! The timing belt job on a 2.7T doesn't require them, but there are other tasks that do.
You don't have to spend reckless money on them either, Autozone sells the 1/2 drive bits in a 4 pack(10-14mm?) for about $12. They worked fine for me when I needed to remove my axle while doing a wheel bearing replacement.
I made the jump from changing brakes to doing my timing belt (which made the car so much less intimidating to wrench on). So if you're good at following directions, got the proper tools and you're sensible enough to know when to ask questions if you're unsure of anything.. shouldn't be a problem.
The cam lock bar and crank pin aren't too expensive either, if you wish to purchase instead of renting. I purchased mines from kochtools for about $75.
BUT before I go any further, which motor are we talking about here?
The 3.0 is a little more involved than the 2.8/2.7T/4.2
Last edited by OGBULLYLOCDAWG; 10-22-2013 at 09:27 AM.
#8
Well, this sure just got a lot more interesting since it's a 3.0 and not like a 2.8 or a 2.7T! You know, since we've been talking about cam lock bars and stuff.
It's not as bad as it sounds, but there is a little more to setting up the cam locking mechanism on the 3.0 than the 2.7T or the 2.8.
It's not as bad as it sounds, but there is a little more to setting up the cam locking mechanism on the 3.0 than the 2.7T or the 2.8.
#10
OGBULLYLOCDAWG had to go and ruin all the fun by pointing out minor details such as engine type! Thanks for keeping topic on track.
Based on the shop rate for the 3.0 it sounds like you may be buying a couple more tools...and beer.
Based on the shop rate for the 3.0 it sounds like you may be buying a couple more tools...and beer.