I recently purchased a 2000 Audi A6 for what I thought was a good price $4500 with 132K on it. Got it home and the check engine light pops on, needs an O2 sensor, Torque converter, some front end work, probably needs about $3.5-$4K in work. The inside and outside is in great shape but I am concerned about getting that far into this and having many more issues. Should that be a concern?

My gut tells me to sell and cut my losses now, my heart tells me it's a pretty car and hopes that after I put this work into it it will be fine.

What are your opinions? I could use some impartial opinions.

Thanks,
Mark

 

I think the seller knew the code(s). He/she just cleared the code(s) by disconnect the battery and has the car's computer (ecu) in sleep mode, so the CEL code(s) wont pop up 60-70 miles later.

What codes did you get re CEL?
You may check this link out, www.bigdaddiesgarage.com

Check if your state's law will protect you on get passed state inspection or get a refund. With CEL you can't get state inspection sticker.

To spend pre-purchase inspection ($80 - $100) by Audi specialized indy shop could possibly saves you from this trouble.

 

The took it to an Audi dealership who quoted me almost $8K the lesser amount came from 2 different repair shops one for the Tranny issue the other for the O2 sensor, half shaft, tie rod ends etc. the combined amount is $3500'ish depending on if this takes car of all the codes so I can inspect it.

17861 P1453 Exhaust gas temperature sensor 1 open/short to B+
17521 P1113 Bank1-Sensor1 Internal Resistance too High
18032 P1624 MIL Request Sign.active
17125 P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circ Performance or Stuck Off

The Audi dealer wasn't able to tell me if the seller reset the codes, it seems almost certain he did but unfortunately I bought it as is and unless I could truly prove it upon a shadow of a doubt it would be a waste of time. The seller was in Pa about 4 hours from me and I am in NY so my state laws won't help me.

To muddy the waters even further the tech at one shop said there was oil burning off the engine, he couldn't see a leak but that could be an issue also.

My biggest challenge right now is determining if I should just cut this loose or continue to take my chances with repairing it and hoping there are no more issues.

 

Our state (Virginia) has a three day law that says you can get your money back on a used car within three days of purchase if issues like this arise. I'm sure there is some fine print but other states have laws similar to this. You might check, I would.
Other than that, you could sell it as a fixer upper or get the repairs done. These cars can be expensive to operate and one with 132K on it will have more issues. An O2 sensor is about $250 installed, a torque converter aobut $2800, so this makes the car a $7500 car. Not too far out there if there is nothing else waiting in the wings.
As an example, I have one with 60K on it, I just replaced the AC compressor (froze up on a trip and broke the belt, not a happy camper!), the right front CV axle and the belt and tensioner for the AC compressor all for $2200. I have had the car about two years and have not had much repair work though, I feel the car is pretty reliable. I have just changed the tranny filter and the plugs. I plan to do the timing belt at 75K myself, which will cost about $400 in parts.

 

Dump it. Doing the work yourself on the non-TC issues and living with the TC as-is is the only reasonable path for that car but since you evidently don't work on cars yourself, it's going to cost and cost and cost so get out now and minimize your losses.

Try listing it in the For Sale section of this forum. Be totally honest but emphasize that it drives just fine. Someone who works on Audis can make a nice vehicle out of it and will glad to help you out of your situation.

Good luck,

Bob

 

I agree with Bob. Unfortunately you probably picked up a neglected Audi. When taken care of, they are great cars. Not so much when not taken care of... Unless you don't mind wrenching on your car and have some spare cash laying around, I say you dump it to a willing buyer who will put up with/is familiar with the Audi.

Considering the listed issues and the oil leaks that the mechanic described, you will definitely be looking at other issues after you deal with the listed issues. Just leave a go-to-hell message to the previous owner, drink a beer, and sell the car at a loss.

 

Sounds like an addition to the never ending ash heap of Audi history, spare yourself and your wallett the further misery you are invariably headed for.

 

I think I bought your car's doppelganger about two weeks ago, a 2001 Allroad with 60k miles. Clean, one owner, dealer maintained, all service records (supposedly). I hooked in my portable OBD-II code reader when I went to check out the car, no codes found. I picked it up from a private seller about 60 miles south of me and CEL came on about 20 miles into the drive. Got home, hooked it up to the VAG-COM and got the code for secondary air injection pump insufficient flow. Took the pump apart and cleaned it and all was well and good. Next morning, came out and the front suspension was sitting on the bump stops. Also noticed the front CV boots were torn on both sides. Put some new axle half shafts on it, put on two new front bags from Arnott (not a big deal to change, I own two Allroads and a W8), drove it around and CEL again. This time P0741. So now it needs a torque converter. Normally I'd deal with this myself but I really don't have the time right now with everything else going on so I asked the Audi dealer for a quote. Parts plus 20 hours of labor, roughly $4,000. I don't think I could possibly take 20 hours to change a torque converter in my own driveway with no car lift so that seems a bit absurd. I called the dealer in Austin and they quoted me 15 hours which was a bit better. I'm curious as to what your dealer quoted you?

 

It takes quite a bit of time to access, disconnect and remove all the engine crap, plus removing the exhaust system/cats before unbolting the tranny from the bell housing flange. Just to remove the flywheel bolts you need to remove the alternator to get to the starter, which you pull out completely.
You need to secure the engine, then you get into removing ATF lines and the mounts.
Gotta unclip all the wiring (multifunction switch, sensors, etc), and remove selector lever cable... there is too much crap to do before actually securing the tranny and pulling it away from the engine.
And to just do all of this with the car on jack stands, without much room to work above your head/body, in the driveway... you'd be lucky if you just get to pull the TQ out in 20 hours...
I hate dealers and their superinflated rates, prices, and book times for various jobs. However, you cannot do in the driveway THIS job in 20 hours without proper equipment and with the car to a decent height.