I just bought a 2001 Audi a6 2.7t Quattro drove it from New York to Georgia. I love this car but now I found out there are some problems. First of I need to change the battery the person I bought it from had the wrong battery in it. second I think I need to do an oil change because the car is shaking when I past 50 mph is crazy it wasn’t doing that when I was driving it down, now my ? is do I need to take it to the dealership and pay 115 dollars for an oil change or take it to Wal-Mart or good wrench (help)…. And what’s a good oil brand for my car.
Also I try to do my emissions but fail
Codes read:
KOEO=Fail DTC2= P1423
Mil Cmd= Fail
Rpm=0699 DTC2=P0421 warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold

Now does anyone know what this is and how much it will cost?
I’m new to driving this car so any help will do thanks

 

Would you do the effort to look into the Sticky notes on top of the forum:

(Sticky: tips and suggestions for the new 2.7t owner an others?

You might find the info quite useful.

BTW- vibration is not related to the state of the oil.
Is this the first car you ever have - drove?

Do you have a deeeep pocketssss?
Vibration could be related to everything - mounts, suspension, tires and wheels.
Dealers wil chop your head from your weist; other shops might just pretend they can fix an Audi.
In either case - diagnostics is the critical poin here - fixing the issues could be a way easier (but costly as well).

Good luck,

 

thanks.. no second car but just been driving for 7 months....

 

i had a po421 code had oil change (full synthetic) and code never came back that was 6000 miles ago try that as far as oil there are many debates on this but any audi approved synthetic will do mobil 5w30 seems to be popular or shell has a great synthetic rotell but thats my opinion just keep up the maintenance

 

thanks rather b1 im going to try that is there a particular brand of coolant or brake fluid, powersteering fluid i should used just incase i want to top them off

 

Did the car come with an owner's manual? If so, open it and read it cover to cover. It addresses the types of fluids that are approved for this car. There are basically no cheap short cuts that won't hurt the car. You have a 2.7T in a warmer climate, so I recommend Mobil1 5W-30. It takes 7+ quarts and the proper oil filter. Avoid the dealer. Try to find a quick change place that will use your oil and filter and just charge you labor. Keep in mind they have to drop the belly pan (plastic shield under the engine) and these quickee shops sometimes forget a few bolts. You get what you pay for.

You did not mention mileage, but depending on that you should consider air filter, cabin filter, and replacing brake fluid and differential fluids. Do you know if the TB was changed?

Vibration is probably out of balance tires. But you need to have the alignment checked -- it could be worn shocks or suspension components. If you bought the vehicle in NY, the roads there suck and it has probably been pounded. Look for cupping (balance or shocks) or strange wear (alignment) on the tires.

Take it to an Autozone and they will test both the batter and alternator for free. Then decide if you need a battery. Whatever one is in there is probably for cold climates and you need a hot climate battery.

Good luck -- and definitely read the sticky, too.

 

app. buddy... the car has 97,000 miles, and i dont have the manual...... and i will check to balance the tires someone else told me that tooo so thanks? do you know where i can print out of the manual online for free or do i have to pay?

 

and yea how will i know if i need to change the timeing belt or not? and how much is it?

 

Look under the steering wheel, a little compartment is located there. There should be a vinyl folder with the owner's manual in it. The vinyl folder spine fills the entire opening of the compartment. That's where I found mine.

There are shops in your area that specialize in Audi, but they won't be cheap. Probably cheaper than the dealer though.

If your timing belt was changed at a dealer, that information will be in the dealer database.

Good luck,
dave

 

Alwatys a good idea to change the fluids when buying a used car, especially an older one. Changing th etiming beltr is also critical.
The codes are pointed at a problem with the secondary air system that injects air into the exhaust to get the catalysts working quicker and reduce NO2 on start up. Check the fuse and relay first, then check the vacuum hoses and then the secondary air solenoid valve, then put the car on the computer in real time and monitor the O2 sensors and see if one is bad. Good luck with it.