Sup Audi world,

So I bought my first Audi. I needed an AWD and was looking at Suby (that's prob a bad word here) but it seemed pound for pound from a spec sheet/value perspective Audi was clearly dominate.

So talking to people I had mixed reactions. Probably either glowing or "you are in for a lot of repairs". I now now resonate with both lol. I'm into day 40 and I'm rocking the check engine light. I am hoping someone in the forum has insight on what could be going on.

Symptom:

Rough idle. Seems to run like normal above around 1500-2000 rpm. Never fails to start, never stalled. Gas seems lower than typical, but then again it's still new to me. Did around 17-18 mpg last fillup 50/50 city/highway.


History:

This was bought from the dealer via auction.
98k
I have no service records
Car rode like a champ first 1k until problem


Diagnostic:


P1650 MISSING MESSAGE FROM INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
PO300 RANDOM MISSFIRE
PO304 MISSFIRE CYLINDER #4
PO305 & PO306 MISFIRE CYLINDER #5, 6
PO345CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR A, BANK 2 CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION


What I've done:

ignition coils replaced through recall may 2010
changed all spark plugs
oil/filter change
cleaned MAF sensor
cleaned/replaced all cam sensors

so far no result/improvement.

all the mechanics do is foam at changing my timing belt. I figure it would run like **** all the time if it was that so I'm looking for other culprits. All feedback is appreciated! I'm kinda all in on this car and I'm low on funds.

Thank you!

 

Check out this reply to a similar issue posted by another member dealing with a very similar problem. Its possible that your issue may be caused by a bad, "ignition Control Module".

10-22-2011, 09:22 AM
jwalters103
1st Gear
Garage is empty, add now
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 36



i say that because you are describing the exact same problem i had a couple of months ago. after spending a fortune following all the advice of spark plugs, coil packs, vacuum lines, etc, i finally decided to check the icm and guess what the problem was all along.


let me ask you, does it sound probable that 3 coil packs or spark plugs would go bad at the exact same time while the other 3 remain just fine? no. so, logic would dictate that you look to whatever those three cylinders have in common. guess what they have in common. the icm in front.

here is a test. clear your codes. unplug the wires from you icm. remove the airbox cover and spin it around 180 degrees and set it back. now plug the harnesses back into the icm"s so that the harnesses are on the icm oppositte of what it was originally attached to. start the car, let it run and rescan it. if the code jumps to the other cylinders, then you have your culprit.


p0300,p0302,p0306 help
__________________

 

that you for the advice. I was looking up ICM for this model and one of the threads indicated :

"3.0 is controled by the motronic ECM. This problem sounds mechanical. Each coil harness goes into a loom and back to the ECM box.".

 

If the TB has not been done, you are close to overdue. If it slips or breaks, the engine is kaput. Your're looking at 7.5 hours book and about $400-500 in parts. You need to replace TB, waterpump, t-stat, serpentine, fluid, and all tensioners. Do some searches and you'll see plenty of similar answers.

 

Did you get acouple of CEL flashing last about 12-15 seconds a day before the steady CEL was ON ?

If yes and the engine is not shaking, then I am looking at your codes CPS and 1 side (4,5,6) driver side mis-fired, it is very likely you have 2 change TWO CPS (camshaft position sensors) at the driver side. I had them replaced about 2 month ago. The parts cost abot $47 each.

 

yes thanks I'm aware this is the next item i will have it taken care of after I get whatever is currently wrong fixed

 

hey thanks for the reply. Yes I just changed out both cam sensors at drivers side.



One thing I did notice when putting in the new cam sensors was that on the side I'm having issues on (bank 2) there was no plastic housing surrounding the wires from the sensor harness to the back of the engine (or wherever it goes from there). This housing exists on the passenger side however.

The wires do not appear to be burnt however it does get really hot in there. There was no difference in idling performance when I started it up with both cam sensors pulled out...could these wires be damaged and not communicating with the sensors and that could be my issue? If so, what kind of a job is that to fix I can't seem to find the parts online.

 

oh and yes typically thats what happens it will flash like you described when first started then go solid. Other times its just solid.

 

When the CEL steadily ON, I also noticed rpm is about 200 rpm higer than normal 650 when stop at traffic light waiting for the green.

 

When the CEL steadily ON, I also noticed rpm is about 200 rpm higer than normal 650 when stop at traffic light waiting for the green.

Here is the engine layout (Post no. 4)
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on-Sensor-Help