'96 A6 Interfered With!
Greetings Kevin A6!
Great work on the 02 sensors and sorry 'bout the loose lugnuts. Happens and I'm glad it wasn't WORSE! So, I managed to tighten up those seatbelts on my '96 A6 but it was a hassle, a bigtime hassle. Think I wrote about it in an earlier posting. Popping the plastic cover on the watchspring-like coils can make for an explosive event and then one has to manage that ever-tightening coil as one re-winds it. A few attempts resulted in a vastly improved retraction system. However, the price I paid for my efforts is a regularly appearing fault code! I think it is the Air Bag code that lights off and I have the VAG software program to clear it and it's no big hassle and, moreover, I prefer clearing a code to slamming my door on a dangling seatbelt buckle!
And forgive my poor memory, but one of you made mention of a timing belt. Don't mess with delaying in replacing a timing belt! Oh, this is the voice of costly and painful experience speaking as I landed on this wonderful forum as a result of my own foolish neglect. Head R & R and many $$$ later, all for a $30.00-$50.00 timing belt. IF one is unsure as to the condition of a belt, DO NOT rely on your eyes to inform you! When in any doubt, replace it! One doesn't even have to replace the water pump, like is so commonly done with these jobs on various cars. Get the camshaft tool, the crankshaft lock tool and get 'er done! Take a look at the various threads on this experience, which I found VERY HELPFUL.
Good luck to all and post your efforts/rewards! Makes for great adventure reading
!
Great work on the 02 sensors and sorry 'bout the loose lugnuts. Happens and I'm glad it wasn't WORSE! So, I managed to tighten up those seatbelts on my '96 A6 but it was a hassle, a bigtime hassle. Think I wrote about it in an earlier posting. Popping the plastic cover on the watchspring-like coils can make for an explosive event and then one has to manage that ever-tightening coil as one re-winds it. A few attempts resulted in a vastly improved retraction system. However, the price I paid for my efforts is a regularly appearing fault code! I think it is the Air Bag code that lights off and I have the VAG software program to clear it and it's no big hassle and, moreover, I prefer clearing a code to slamming my door on a dangling seatbelt buckle!
And forgive my poor memory, but one of you made mention of a timing belt. Don't mess with delaying in replacing a timing belt! Oh, this is the voice of costly and painful experience speaking as I landed on this wonderful forum as a result of my own foolish neglect. Head R & R and many $$$ later, all for a $30.00-$50.00 timing belt. IF one is unsure as to the condition of a belt, DO NOT rely on your eyes to inform you! When in any doubt, replace it! One doesn't even have to replace the water pump, like is so commonly done with these jobs on various cars. Get the camshaft tool, the crankshaft lock tool and get 'er done! Take a look at the various threads on this experience, which I found VERY HELPFUL.
Good luck to all and post your efforts/rewards! Makes for great adventure reading
!
Hey To All,
And a Happy New Year, too! Got the kid's A4 in my possession, once again, 'cause the stalling problem is back with full fury. I'm now headed to the Fuel Pump to check it out, given the mileage on the car and the fact that pretty much all other possibilities (at least those that I can think of!) have been eliminated. Cold weather is upon us and the intermittent stalling problem increases. Jim or anyone else out there know of the proper fuel pressure as I check it out. The AllData manual calls for a 15 second volulme test, which I'll also perform. Stand by. . .
And a Happy New Year, too! Got the kid's A4 in my possession, once again, 'cause the stalling problem is back with full fury. I'm now headed to the Fuel Pump to check it out, given the mileage on the car and the fact that pretty much all other possibilities (at least those that I can think of!) have been eliminated. Cold weather is upon us and the intermittent stalling problem increases. Jim or anyone else out there know of the proper fuel pressure as I check it out. The AllData manual calls for a 15 second volulme test, which I'll also perform. Stand by. . .
there are stories about a bad CTS wreaking all kinds of havoc. Seems like a reasonable possibility that it is the source of some of your issues. it's a pretty straightforward replacement.
Hey,
Thanks for your reply and encouraging words regarding the CTS. Think I'll change it out as it's only a $35.00 part. I did notice today, while taking the car on a long drive of errands, a very noisy "trunk" upon start-up. Sounded like the fuel pump and it was real rattly when I first start the car. Of course, I can't tell if it's noisy while underway but I'm also increasingly suspecting a failing fuel pump despite my personal experience of fuel pumps only failing totally/catastrophically, rather than intermittently. I'll first perform the volume test on the existing one 'cause those puppies aren't $35.00!!!! They're closer to $200.00!!! Stand by. . .
Thanks for your reply and encouraging words regarding the CTS. Think I'll change it out as it's only a $35.00 part. I did notice today, while taking the car on a long drive of errands, a very noisy "trunk" upon start-up. Sounded like the fuel pump and it was real rattly when I first start the car. Of course, I can't tell if it's noisy while underway but I'm also increasingly suspecting a failing fuel pump despite my personal experience of fuel pumps only failing totally/catastrophically, rather than intermittently. I'll first perform the volume test on the existing one 'cause those puppies aren't $35.00!!!! They're closer to $200.00!!! Stand by. . .
Greetings,
Well, I've got the new replacement pump in hand, the old one removed, and am about to make the switch. I'm relying heavily upon the posting of Robert Gedeon (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng95.shtml) back in '06, which is helpful even though it is not the exact application. It's close enough! The only problem for me is that this car's accessibility is via the trunk and man, it's a tight, tight fit for this ol' dog
! There's enough room through the access hole for one hand and the top of the fuel tank sits about 5"-6" below the trunk hatch, making it all real fun to maneuver! Hopefully, today, I'll get the job done and run 'er up and, even more hopefully, solve the problem. I may post a few pictures of the job. . .
Well, I've got the new replacement pump in hand, the old one removed, and am about to make the switch. I'm relying heavily upon the posting of Robert Gedeon (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng95.shtml) back in '06, which is helpful even though it is not the exact application. It's close enough! The only problem for me is that this car's accessibility is via the trunk and man, it's a tight, tight fit for this ol' dog
! There's enough room through the access hole for one hand and the top of the fuel tank sits about 5"-6" below the trunk hatch, making it all real fun to maneuver! Hopefully, today, I'll get the job done and run 'er up and, even more hopefully, solve the problem. I may post a few pictures of the job. . .
So, here's the deal. . .Not having replaced one of these before, I've gotten the old pump out but the lockring was broken. Got a new lockring but am unsure of whether or not the inner "shell" in which the fuel pump resides, needs to come out. Pictures of previous jobs seem unclear to me and I'm nervous about trying to remove it because it's plastic! Are there, in fact, 3 pieces? That is, the actual fuel pump, the lockring (for lack of a better term) and then the out shell in which the fuel pump resides? If that lockring hadn't broken and therefore come off on its own, would all the pieces have come out together IF I'd been able to rotate the unit counterclockwise like all the manuals/previous threads have indicated. I'm just so reluctant to try to further twist that outer shell that resides in the fuel tank baffle. . .Anybody's thoughts on this would be most welcome. And Jim, good to see you out there still!!!!
Think I'm making some sense out of the fuel pump assembly. Checked my AllData On-Line Manual a little bit further and found this:
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...12505/78003354
Part #14 on the diagram is known as the Fuel Supply Unit and I believe it includes the 3 items I mentioned in the previous post. What thrown me off is the breakage and then my removing of the lockring. Stand by as I still have to be able to remove the out canister of the Fuel Supply Unit!
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...12505/78003354
Part #14 on the diagram is known as the Fuel Supply Unit and I believe it includes the 3 items I mentioned in the previous post. What thrown me off is the breakage and then my removing of the lockring. Stand by as I still have to be able to remove the out canister of the Fuel Supply Unit!
Well, a few small broken pieces of plastic but the pump's in and buttoned up and the car's running. However, the stalling problem off of idle persists. Stalled once while idling for almost 1 hour, randomly hunts for a stable idle, running between 700 and 900 RPM and I did pull an airbag code (low voltage code of some kind or another) which I've never seen before. Ah, the mystery continues. Going to take it on the road tomorrow and see how/what it does. . .A bit frustrating, to be sure.


