I have a 6 speed with a thump. No doubt it is a mount, looks like trans mounts are OK so assume it is motor mounts, which are a pain to replace on the turbo cars. My snub mount is fairly new.

 

Sorry I haven't posted for a while.
I took my valve body out again and this time decided to investigate it myself. I took it all apart and actually found that it's not that complcated as I initially thought. I looked at all the orifices and the rubber diaphgrams as well as the individual pistone and am sorry to say I didn't find anything obvious, which is more frustrating. I'm now trying to figure out a way to pressure test my solenoids, also while being in the correct temperature range.

JR

 

I'm currently working on building a test plate for the 5HP24A valve body. It will bolt onto the transmission and use 40-60 PSI air to test all 6 hydraulic circuits. That's A,B,C,D,E, and F clutches.
I layed out the bolt pattern in CAD and made a paper template of the overall shape that is needed. Looking at a photo the "Audi special tool" test plate, I determined where the test ports and bolt holes should be. I'm currently waiting for the prototype to be produced in a nylon/plastic. The prototype will help me determine proper fitment. The final product will be produced using 1/2 to 3/4 aluminum plate.
It will be just as easy to produce 10 as it will to produce 1, so I'll try to make some of these available to those in need.

 

Having done some research, this problem is likely a combination of a bad torque converter and a worn regulator bore, also possibly bad fluid. I have enclosed a document outlining the solution.
http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TASC-TIP-08-08.pdf

 

I have been down that road and thrown money at that problem already. My TC is a rebuilt unit from RevMaxx Converters who assure me the converter is as good or better than a stock unit, the valve body is a fully rebuilt unit with an oversized pressure regulator valve installed by Freddies Transmissions of Dallas and the fluid is the genuine ZF "stuff" at $38/Litre from the local Audi stealership.

My next step is to replace the rear tailights and the air freshener. Maybe that'll help.

JR

 

JR,

How much did the TC rebuilt cost?
(it has to be proven yet a rebuilt is to be successful).
Have you monitored the TC work with VAG com -driving mode?

$38 /l for ATF is way high - dealers around sell the VAG ATF for $20.

You'r sure you have the proper fluid?

Have you tried to recode your transmission - how does it responds after?

 

You have to notice where I live... Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada.

Part prices and available knowledge are completely different standards than you guys are used to down in the lower 48.

Price for a litre of genuine ZF Transmission fluid from a local Audi dealer is $38CDN. An alternative fluid option is available from the local NAPA parts store at $26 CDN, but who knows what the heck they're selling.

Absolutely no transmission shop wants to look at one of these transmissions, all they recommend is either a new unit from Audi, or a used unit from a wrecker. Shops are scared shitle$$ to even look into one of these. Never mind the valve body, they look at me like i have worms coming out of my ears when i say "ZF5HP24A".

I took my car to the Audi dealership to get any possible software installed before driving it and was told by the service manager that there is nothing they can do when it comes to updating or re-flashing the transmission computer after a rebuild. They did offer to sell me a new transmission computer for $3750. Bunch of crooks.

This is a reality of owning/maintaining/repainring of of these cars in Manitoba, and this is why all the parts I bought to repair this car came from the US.

The TC rebuild was $700 from a shop in Texas, the pressure valve install was $150. To date i'm propably looking at $300 plus in shipping costs alone for sending all these parts back and forth to the US.


Like I said earlier, i'm ready to start swapping tailings.

JR

 

parts in Canada are typically twice what US prices are..which is a real crock because once we peak above par Canadian tire Money is worth more than the US dollar.
I have the same issue with my car and just decided to drive it aaround with the clunk

 

My '00 4.2l started doing this recently except it happens at much lower speeds. Usually right when I come to a stop at a light. It only happens in auto, never in tip, and if I press and release the break lightly a few times while slowing down it doesnt happen. I am hoping its a mount but the fact that it doesnt happen in tip scares me into thinking its the trans.

The trans was rebuilt less than 2 years ago and the fluid was replaced last december ( while verifying the rebuild). I used to get a knocking noise when sitting in gear that we blamed on the TC but it got quieter over time and is completely gone now.

Any thoughts?

 

I had a Passat that did the same thing. In that case it was a 3-2 downshift that was pretty harsh, and with worn mounts could be felt through the car. Very common problem on the Passat, some years had a flash available for the A/T to change the downshift parameters. The Passat and A6 have a lot in common, so I thought it was worth a mention.