Well just finished my TB and my Tensioner seals, on my 2000 A6 2.8 Quattro, everything went together well. I checked a million times that I kept everything lined up I also used the tools to lock everything in place. Yet I just did my test drive and afew miles into it got a slight miss and then a check engine light( haven't recieved my Vag-com cable yet). Do you think I have my timing screwed up or could it be just a bad set of spark plug wires since I had to mess with them to do the tensioners? Any suggestions? Thanks Kirk

 

Did you loosen the cam gears before applying tension?

 

Yes. On the passenger side. I pulled the cams out like the bluaparts instruction reccomend and reinstalled them. After I reinstalled them I made sure all the timing marks lined up and there was 16 rollers between the marks then put the timing belt on everything lined up. Also it only misses after it warms up a little. What did I screw up?

 

you need to run the vag com to know for sure but I just went through this myself. If you get a code which reads something like "cam position sensor implausable signal" you have a timing issue. If you look at the drivers side intake cam the timing mark lines up with the top of a tooth and if you did like I did you lined up the 16th tooth to the right of the top of that tooth (standing at the front of the car facing the engine) When it really should be to the left of the top of that tooth the marks line up either way but will kick this code if it is lined up to the right.

If you get this code do a search over at audiworld using the code number and there is a great right up about this problem I just cant remember the code number right now and cant seem to find the post without it.

PM me if this is your issue and need clarification on anything

 

FYI. When you are doing timing belt, you would never pull the cam out. You would just loosen cam sprockets on both sides. When you are referring to 16 rollers, they pertain to cam chain and tensioner, not timing belt.

Loosen the sprockets and use a gear puller to "unlock" them from the cams. Then they will spin with minimum resistance. Lock the cams in place using the lock bar and tension the belt using proper amount of torque. The idea is to apply even tension along the entire length of the belt. If one of the sprockets is not loosened, then there is inconsistent tension on different part of the timing belt. Once the tension equalizes then one of the 2 cams will be off alignment.

 

I think you misunderstood my post. I did the timing belt and the seals on the cams and chain tensioner.

Yes, when I did the timing belt I locked the crank shaft and also the cams together and then popped the gears loose to do the timing belt.

I pulled the cams out to do the seals on the passenger side. Thus the 16 roller thing.

When I was done with both I turned the crank shaft by hand 3 complete revolutions and everything continued to line up perfectly. (the mark on crank shaft, the large holes on the cams faced each other, and the at the chain both cams lined up with their marks on the caps.)

Hopefully this makes more sense. Sorry. All your help is very much appreciated!

 

Man I think your right! I just pulled the valve cover off and I think I did the same thing you did. It is really confusing, depending on the direction you look at the chain. Now then, I guess I will have to pull everything back apart. Do I just need to put everything back on its marks or did I screw up something I don't know about internally by running the car like that.

Also, there is a small piece of the the pad on the tensioner that is missing. It is the piece that overhangs to the left. I never noticed it when I did the repair and there is no evidence of the part under the valve cover. So maybe the previous owner or mechanic broke it and did not fix it....I have a feeling the reason it was not replaced was that tensioner costs $600.00. Can I use it still like this or will it cause me problems? Can you just replace the pads on the tensioner?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!!

 

I cant answer as to what you should do about the broken pad or if they sell just a replacement pad.

What I did to correct this was I locked the crank and then used the tool to take the tension off of the chain and then removed the bolts from the tensioner so it would lift up a little. Then i removed the cam sensor from the back of the intake cam and all of the caps on the intake cam. At this point you can lift the intake cam and tensioner up and if you move the cam around just right you can get enough slack to pop the chain over the one tooth you need its not easy but saves pulling the whole front of the car off again.

Oh and no you should not have done any damage as you were running within the marks mine ran fine either way it just kicked the code. But in the post I was reading at audiworld they had the same symptoms as you slight misfire and code so I think you will find this will solve all of your issues.

 

I just a newbe reading these threads my timing belts do not need changed but will in about 60K you all say lock the crank and lock the cams pulleys BUT ( are the cams under spring tension at this point or when at TDC is there no tension ) how do you replace the cam seals w/o removing the pulleys ?????
Info I have changed timing belts on 4cyl diesels and and 6 cyl Kia's so I am quite capable of doing the 2.7 change i hope if I don't get too old first 67 and still fixing my own cars.

 

go to the tech section for timing belt change . it is pretty well explained and th eorder of the steps . i did it on my 2.8 12v and was very easy actually . The only difference now is taking the front end off the car to do it