I'm still getting 'System too rich' https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=138504 errors. After changing the coolant temp sensor and MAF i've got the CEL again this time with a 'Low Fuel Level' error thrown in for good measure.

So as was previously mentioned i'm next going to replace the fuel pressure regulator, has anyone tackled this, am i going to get covered in fuel? Do i need any specialist tools?

ECS has them for $50 and they look pretty straight forward.

Cheers

 

Easy,

Wrap a rag around the fuel line into the fuel rail and crack it open.

Remove the Vacuum line on the underside of the regulator.

Remove the retaining clip from the fuel regulator and twist it out. it may be a liitle tight if the O-rings are bad.

Lube the new o-rings up a little with vaseline, grease or oil. Just a light covering to help slide it in.

Put the lines back on and turn the key on and off a few times to cylcle the fuel pump.

Done

The only way I could tell you if that ewas your issue is to test the pressure after it. But the tools will cost more than the regulator. So just go for it.

 

Thanks, i'll order one and give it a try.

cheers

 

Somewhere on the fuel rail is a pressure relief valve (schrader valve - looks like a tire valve stem). Press it to releive the pressure first.

 

That code relates to your long term fuel trim, your ECU has set maps for part throttle, these are adapted by input from the primary o2's and MAF. If you have a new MAF and you are still getting LTFT codes, it is most likely bad primary o2's not an FPR. FPR's rarely go bad.

 

Wouldn't a bad O2 just enrich the bank it is monitoring?
Considering if it was just slightly bad enough to not throw a CEL but mess with the trim.

What else would mess with both banks like that? considering his MAF and temp sensor are new.

Throttle Body?

To check your reg just remove the vac line on the bottom and see if any fuel pours out if it does it's bad. If it doesn't it has a better chance of being good. only a pressure test can determine if it is in fact good.

As for you Vac lines. You should have a diagram up under the hood. Mounted on the bottom of the hood. If you go to replace one replace them all. I ordered braided OEM from www.ecstuning.com. I don't think it's those either but if they're shot they need to be done.

I have had one go on a Ford (a long time ago...1988) It flooded the car at first, making it hard to start. Then as it progressed it loaded the cylinders with fuel until it poured out the exhaust and shot fuel all over another car. The issue I had was hard or no starting when warm. that's the only insight I have on what they do when they go bad.