Audi A6 won't start
 

Either no spark, no gas or timing belt!

Because of all the electronics controlling the car you need to have a good battery with a full charge or you will get strange behavior such as the one you describe. How old is your battery???:confused:

^^ yea get that battery checked out.

Well it sounds like the starter was going... so I wouldn't assume battery.

Was the starter turning (engaging) the engine?

If it is the timing belt... it might be good that it happened while you weren't in motion.

I am having the same problem with the same car. I have had the charger on the battery all day with no change. Engine turns over, there is spark, I can smell gas, won't start...
Thanks for your help!

As most mentioned here I would start with the battery. I just replaced mine last week...82,000 miles...4.2L V8.

The issue didn't really present itself as a bad battery. I concocted up all sorts of different scenarios in my head. I did get it started and grabbed my volt meter to check out the charging voltage - ok. I then shut off the vehicle and the battery seemed to hold the charge and all lights/electronics worked. When I went to restart the voltage dropped to 3V...Bingo.

If anything pull your battery and bring it into your local auto parts supply store. They will run a load check on it for free. That will give you confirmation real quick.

('99 A6 Q- 150k and going)-I have had the same problems and a mech told me to check Air Sensor connection and clean- the second, leaky or clogged fuel injectors- mine sounded like it had no compression, i pumped the gas and it slowly began to fire each cyl (smokey (white) at the back)- i got a MIL- 6 codes- all read misfire on cyl- I had a fuel injection cleaning done and it has not happened since (2 yrs ago)- note all my wires and plugs where replaced 6 mths before this happened-

Have you had the anti theft system checked? If something happens to the chip in the key or the chip sensor in the ignition the vehicle will turn over but never start, as you described. That is where I would start.

My daughter has a '99 A6 Quattro that will not start. It turns over but won't start. I have replaced the fuel filter and changed the battery in it. Still no luck. As it turns over it tries to fire, but will not start. What do I check next?

any check engine lights^^

The check engine light is on, but the analyzer says that there are no codes in the computer.

the check engine light is on, but the analyzer says that there are no codes in the computer.

I hate electrical diagnostics, and electronics in general. Everyone has hit on everything I would check. While your at it check the fuel pump. Maybe its not supplying fuel to the engine.

I tried spraying starting fluid into the air filter, it didn't have any effect on the engine while it was turning over.

are you running the free version of the analyzer? There may be codes that wont get scanned unless you have a fully registered version

I borrowed a OBD II from a local parts store. It said that there weren't any codes in the computer.

That's bull crap -- The free Rostech works OK as long as you have the correct cable.

I would be more inclined to question the the results from an OBDII instead of VAGCom.

same thing happened to my 2002. it was the crank sensor, look into it.

first off if your CEL is on you absolutely have a DTC. Unfortunatley generic scanners can not read all of the Audi/VAG codes you need a VAG-COM to read all of the codes.

There is a list on here of members who have them. You could purchase a cheap one on ebay and just ask how to set it up. Quite a few guys have them for about 30 bucks. Or you can buy one from ross-tech.com for $200. I have the ross tech and it works great. I use all the time, sorry to say!

1st
Tell us what engine you have, I'll assume 2.8

2nd
While you wait for a scanner to arrive, check the timing belt to confirm it is still there and not shredded. pull a cover and make sure it is not loose. BTW when was it last replaced? is it cranking over really fast. If it is you have a compression problem- bent valves.

3rd
You need three things for an engine to start. Compression, Fuel and Ignition.

Check Your Fuses.

Start by visually looking for burnt wires, you may have a wire that has grounded out on the block or something.

Since you have external coils put a spark tester in line on each cylinder and check for spark.
If not your problem is ignition related look toward the Ignition control module and test it.

Crank the engine over and then pull a spark plug out and check to see if it is wet. If it is your getting fuel. If not you need to connect a fuel line pressure tester to the incoming fuel supply at the injector rail and test the fuel pressure. If it is low you need to replace the fuel pump. Another way would be to disconnect the fuel filter again and have someone turn the Ignition switch on. If you have nothing then the pump or pump fuse is blown. If you do have fuel spraying out the fuel line with the ign on then test the pressure to make sure it is high enough.

Unless the engine is cranking over super fast I would then wait for the VAG-COM and scan the ECM for fault codes. beware do not disconnect your battery or you may loose that fault code and an important piece of the puzzle.

Let us know what you find or really what you don't find spark compression or fuel.

good luck

The engine is a 2.8 V6. I pulled 2 spark plugs the other day, they were wet. I also checked to see how much compression it had, the 2 cylinders ran around 125 psi,. Is that good or not so good? I ordered a new fuel pump that will be here today, since the car has 109,000 miles on it. I will also check the crank sensor. Thanks.

My 2001 A6 Avant 2.8L just did the same thing starting yesterday morning. Engine cranks, all electrical appears to be functioning fine during cranking. Lots of juice in the battery, it just turns over & over without even a hint of putt-putt firing. Getting good spark from the plugs. I read in these forums that it could be the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, so I just replaced that - no improvement at all (and this is one tough little beggar to replace!!). There is some gas in the cylinder after repeated cranking, but not a huge amount (spark plug is a bit wet). Of course, since the engine doesn't start, the check engine light is on when the key is part way turned on, or during cranking. My Innova CanOBD2 3030 shows no codes for Misfire, Fuel and Comprehensive Component monitors, although it isn't able to read the codes for the other monitors such as Catalyst and Evaporative Systems... Any help or suggestions would be most appreciated.

[By the way, if you're replacing the ECT, I'd suggest NOT putting the rubber O-ring gasket into the coolant tube first, as suggested by another forum member - leave it on the sensor in order to be able to get proper seating. Also, put the sensor into the coolant tube prior to putting the retainer clip on, again contrary to the other forum member, otherwise the clip gets in the way of proper sensor seating.]

best advice for these problems is to invest in a vag-com either the ross tech or the ebay. The Vag-Com is not a simple generic code reading device. It will read ALL of your codes unlike the top of the line generic scanners. It also enables you to call up the sensors and look at what they are reading. So lets say your temp sensor shit the bed. If you pull it up one morning and it says the temp is 80 celcius and the car is freezing cold well then you know it's bad.

The other thing I would do is test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail, if your pump is not putting out enough pressure you'll be having a problem.(bad pump or blown fuse) Also the pressure regulator on the rail (round silver thing with a tube going to it) might be bad to quickly check it remove the vacuum line from it you should not have gas leak out. When they go bad (rare) usually gas leaks through it and will be evident when removing the vac line.

best advice for these problems is to invest in a vag-com either the ross tech or the ebay. The Vag-Com is not a simple generic code reading device. It will read ALL of your codes unlike the top of the line generic scanners. It also enables you to call up the sensors and look at what they are reading. So lets say your temp sensor shit the bed. If you pull it up one morning and it says the temp is 80 celcius and the car is freezing cold well then you know it's bad.

The other thing I would do is test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail, if your pump is not putting out enough pressure you'll be having a problem.(bad pump or blown fuse) Also the pressure regulator on the rail (round silver thing with a tube going to it) might be bad to quickly check it remove the vacuum line from it you should not have gas leak out. When they go bad (rare) usually gas leaks through it and will be evident when removing the vac line.

thanks Jackmup for the suggestions.
I found a local Ross-tech Vag-Com owner who was willing to drop by and help out (thanks Daryl !!). Attached below is the report. Also, I checked the fuel pump fuse and changed it out - not the problem. I blew a lot of starter fluid into the air intake - no impact. I locked & unlocked the doors in case it was alarm related - no help. The report indicates battery voltage low, but after multiple and lengthy attempts to start, that's not a urprise (and I recharge the battery overnight to keep voltage up; battery retains the charge).

Wednesday,10,March,2010,18:00:34:28267
VCDS Version: Release 908.1
Data version: 20091018
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 4B - Audi A6 C5
Scan: 01 02 03 06 08 15 16 17 18 34 35 36 37 45 55 56 57 65 67 75
76 77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-ATQ.lbl
Part No: 3B0 907 551 BA
Component: 2.8L V6/5V G 0050
Coding: 07252
Shop #: WSC 91520

2 Faults Found:
17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 4B0 927 156 AK
Component: AG5 01V 2.8l5V USA 3132
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00000

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-111-EDS.lbl
Part No: 8E0 614 111 A
Component: ABS/EDS 5.3 QUATTRO D10
Shop #: BB 24334

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 4B0-820-043-MY1.lbl
Part No: 4B0 820 043 L
Component: A6-Klimavollautomat D64
Coding: 00160
Shop #: WSC 02325

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 4B0-959-655-AI8.lbl
Part No: 4B0 959 655 F
Component: Airbag Front+Kopf 1002
Coding: 00306
Shop #: WSC 02325

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 4B0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 4B0 920 980 L
Component: C5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D11
Coding: 02262
Shop #: WSC 00000

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 4B0-962-258.lbl
Part No: 4B0 962 258 J
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D33
Coding: 15885
Shop #: WSC 02325

3 Faults Found:
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
00956 - Key 2
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: None
Part No: 4B0 951 178 A
Component: Innenraumueberw. D04
Coding: 00102
Shop #: WSC 02325

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 4B0 035 195 A
Component: Radio D00
Coding: 00115
Shop #: WSC 02325

1 Fault Found:
00856 - Radio Antenna
36-00 - Open Circuit

End -----

We erased all fault codes, tried to restart several times - same symptoms. Then we re-checked fault codes and the only thing that came up was the radio antenna open circuit, which surely wouldn't prevent the car from starting. So, given the above, any further suggestions ?

Mr. 1007Stoneman: didn't mean to hijack your issues - have you been able to try out the new fuel pump? Or test the crank sensor? From other member posts our problem sounds a bit like 'car wash syndrome', which is why I tried blowing a lot of starter fluid into the air intake, hoping for some sputtering at least (this worked for another Audiworld member with very similar symptoms), but no help there. One thing I noticed when spraying in the starter spray, was the air suction seemed to be weaker than I might have expected, compared to older carb cars I used to play with. This doesn't appear in the Vag-Com report as a fault code, but perhaps some "correctly operating" system was closing down the air supply?? You'd think spraying in starter fluid would result in significant change to engine start-up sounds... did you notice the same?

Yes I have, found the access panel for the fuel pump, I replaced the fuel pump, what a pain in the rear. Finally got the car started and it seems to run fine now. Hooked it up to a analyzer and it said that there were no codes in the computer. What about the 125 psi for compression? Good or not so good?

You would think that spraying starting fluid into the intake would make a significant difference, though when I got the car started you couldn't hear air being sucked in that was making much sound when it was running at an idle.

sorry 1007Stoneman - don't know the normal compression, but 125 sounds low. Couldn't find any info on this site or Googling...

UPDATE on getting my 2001 A6 Avant 2.8L C5 to start: IT LIVES !!
-removed and wiggled the fuel pump relay, optimistically hoping it was just a ppor connection: same symptoms
-replaced fuel pump relay with a new one: same symptoms although it almost sounded like it might go a few times.
-replaced Evap Purge Valve: after multiple ignition attempts (like maybe 8) the engine started to sputter and actually fire !!! Got revs to about 1000 before it hesitated & died. A few more attempts and it caught !
Took it out for a spin, no problem. Starts up with no issues.
So I thought I'd remove the new fuel pump relay and try it with the old one: starts up fine. At this point I'm thinking aha! must've been the evap purge valve that caused all this grief! And having too much time on my hands thought let's try it again, with the old EPV - and guess what? It starts and runs fine with all the old parts (except the ECT sensor, which I'm never going to mess with again).
Conclusion: the car just decided to die on its own, and then 5 days later decided to start up on its own. This may be due to the "car wash syndrome" mentioned many times elsewhere in this forum, but it would be great if someone found a better way to identify and resolve this problem ...

Compression should be in the area of say 182-195. Make sure you crank each cylinder same number of turns and of course have a good seal on the hose.

For the cylinders with low compression you will need to perform a leak down test. So google that one up and do some reading to understand how that works.

with 125 I would guess a bad reading and pull the belt covers off to check my timing.

1007stoneman

How did you resolve the turn over but not start issue, as I think I have the same issue.

Hope all went well for you, please,ease advise.

Kind regards,
Ryans

Ok so having troblem with my audi a6 2.7t it sometime lack power and just wants to die out of nowhere .. and sometime if just idleing it will kill the motor.. and sometime go to start it and it turn over but won't start.. so I read on here someone put starter fuild in the throtle body so I did that and the car started up... but didn't fix the promlem because it still won't start sometimes but is better than before any ideas

test the fuel pump, filter and fuel pressure regulator.
spraying starter fluid into the intake bypasses the fuel delivery system.
so if it starts that way you have issues with the fuel delivery system.

Replace the filter first. it may be clogged

If the car stalls then restarts after it sits a while I would bet it's the pump.
They tend to quit when hot and work when cool as they are on the way out.

you can also test the fuel pressure at the rail.

How wouldi test the fuel pump ?

that depends.

First test the pressure at the fuel rail on your engine.

sometimes pump work fine, then heat up and seize, cool off and work again.
if that is what is actually happening. When it seizes you will not be getting any fuel to the rail.

In this case you may allow it to heat up and seize, connect a pressure tester to the rail and see if you have any pressure. If none or very little there is your problem.

They car will be hot so, avoid simply removing the fuel filter or a line to test it.
because if it is not the problem you will shoot fuel all over a hot engine and or exhaust system.

Another problem with fuel related issues is a restricted line. crap and or water/ice in the fuel filter will do this so make sure that thing is new.
it should be in the fuel line under the rear passenger seat. It unscrews.

Yet another issue could be the fuel pressure regulator. It is attached to the fuel rail. it has a vacuum line on it. make sure the vac line is in good shape. also make sure that when you remove the vac line, fuel does not come through the port it is attached to. make sure that fuel is not leaking from it as well.

So that we are clear as your hunting around for the problem. Starting fluid bypasses the fuel system. If your car starts on fluid, That proves your fuel system is the culprit. Highly unlikely that all of your injectors have gone bad at once. But these cars have a lot going on today and the fuel system is controlled by several sensors/modules and the ecm.

I would start here
check all codes with a vag-com.
check the fuel pressure at the rail.
replace the fuel filter.
inspect the lines for damage or kinks.
check the old fuel filter and see what comes out of it, Plugged???
check the pressure at the rail, if low-replace the pump.
if ok test the regulator.
if all of that is ok.
put "noids" on your injector lines and see if they are getting power.
if all of that is ok.
you may have a bad ecm or module or...
HOUSTON you have a problem an will need to fly me in:)

You need a bently manual. you can purchase one at bentleypublishers.com they are very good and will explain how to replace your pump and fuel line pressure etc.

If this is way too much techy stuff for you and your going to go about it just replacing parts and hoping for the best. (I'm not insulting you, most paid mechanics do this anyway)
Buy a fuel pump, fuel filter and a regulator and 10' of oem braided vacuum line.Replace it all.

note empty the fuel out of the tank first, the job is easy when they are light.

for parts
OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning
Discount Auto Parts Online -- PartsGeek.com - Domestic & Import Auto Parts Warehouse

my car will not start
 

I drive a 99 a6 avant and I have replaced the starter and the igniton switch and the battery and it will not even make a sound that it wants to turnover... No clicking like it usually does when the battery is dead... No sound at all... All of my lights work and everything else but it still will not start

Did you find a solution? Same car. but I changed the ect sensor and it won't crank. Lights work, dash lights come on. Advice appreciated.