Couldn't find any thread asking exactly the same questions, so:

1. What should I expect to pay for a timing belt replacement (along with water pump replacement) on my 99 A6 Quattro 2.8L?

2. What should I expect to pay for a brake pad change for my 99 A6 Quattro 2.8L?

Thanks for your time!!

 

A ton or two for the TB, about a ton for the brakes.

Whether you can afford that or not, I don't know.

You probably can't or won't do your own.

Brakes, you could do yourself for mebbe 100 bucks, both axles. Cut the disks, another 40 bucks, all 4.

TB, if you don't have the 100+ buck tool to immobilize cams, forget it. Can be did, but if you are not mechanical, you should look to spend about 800, in my area, at least, to have it done.

My own, I bought an engine to replace in my own 97 A6 that was blown, the boneyard accepted my belt (brand new) and put it and the idler and tensioner on. The engine was not warranted unless the belt and idler, tensioner were replaced. Now they know it was replaced, they did it. Past 90 days, so no matter.

All else aside, TB requires a lot of disassembly. These engines have lots of shrouds on them. WHY, I don't know. Hide everything, look complicated, and all the complication is actually the electronics. Enginewise, I preferred the 5 cylinder 5000 and 100 cars. Them I could work on.

Cheers,

George

 

Here is an estimate of a typical dealer cost...

1. TB including water pump and tensioner... $1500 +/-
2. Brake pads for all four wheels, including new rotors... $800 +/-

Take away a couple of hundreds if done by a local guy.

 

Even if you have your own parts, they still charge anywhere in between $ 500and 600. ($ 125-150/hour....great times to be a mechanic)

 

O.O

A couple more questions:

1. How long after the brake light comes on do I have to change the brakes? It is a yellow light, does it turn red later?

2. How do I know if a mechanic is trustworthy or not? I know the dealer is usually the most trustworthy, but they're also very expensive.

Thanks for the help, everyone!

 

1. What does the brake light look like? (O)? or ABS? The first one refers to the fact that you have minimal brake left. ABS light notes that you have something wrong with your ABS system. Eitherway, I would address it asap, especially the first one. You don't neglect your brakes and you don't cheap out on your brakes.

2. Do an internet search... Ask a friend with an European car... Check with a Better Business Bureau...

 

I don't know if you will be able to do this or not. PULL your wheels and LOOK at the pads. I have a 100 that has had the (0) light lit since I had the brakes repaired, BECAUSE the garage used cable ties to hold the caliper out of the way while they cut the rotors.

Howinell they allowed the cable ties to stay there and have a tail that whipped about and broke the pad sensor wires, I don't know. Spliced them, and still have a "light out" icon, and there is not a light out on my vehicle, not the glove box, not the hood light, not the trunk.

Innyhoo, check the electrical connection of the brake pad leads and the wiring to the computer. It has to be an "open". Older Audis had a feeler you stuck into the hole in the pad that shorted and shone a light when the pads wore. Now, they have a "hairpin" that wear will wear away and create an open circuit. Hence, if there is loss of conductance, you got a light coming on.

Doesn't have to be a worn indicator. Just a bad connection up to the computer. Make and break them, maybe use some contact cleaner to help.

Cheers,

George