Breaks and rotors
#1
05-20-2011, 10:27 AM
Breaks and rotors
Going to change my brakes and rotor's front and back Hopefully it wont take me as long as the front engine snub mount lol. Any useful tips or advice spesh tools required would be greatly appreciated 
#2
05-20-2011, 11:21 AM
I have 10 minutes to spare...
Tools needed
1. Torx bit (I forget what size, but you will need it to undo 2 for removing calipers.)
2. Socket set
3. Screw drivers
4. Turkey baster (Buy a new one. Your wife/GF/mom will kill you if you take theirs.)
5. Some kind of bleeding tool such as vacuum pump (Optional but recommended)
6. Rear brake piston compressing tool
Supplies
1. New pads
2. New rotors (FYI, there are different size rotors for both front and back. Front should be straight forward as long as you have the proper diameter, but the rear has different hat depth. Verify which ones you have before ordering.)
3. White lithium grease
4. Brake anti-squeak
5. A couple of cans of brake cleaner
6. Steel wool
7. (Optional but recommended) New brake fluid. I like ATE super blue or 200. They are basically the same except the color. Which allows you to make sure that you have fully replaced the fluid.
Procedure
1. Remove the cap at the fluid reservoir. If the fluid it topped off, then remove some using a turkey baster.
2. Jack the car up and remove the wheels.
3. Front calipers are set in place with 2 torx bit each. There is a plastic/rubber cap you need to remove to get to these bolts.
4. Remove the caliper cap and pull the pads out. If your rotors are worn with lips, then stick a flat head screw driver in between the pad and the rotor and squeeze the pad a bit to gain space.
5. Once the pad is out, push the caliper piston back in to gain space to install the new pads. You will need to keep an eye on the reservoir fluid level. You may need to suck out some more brake fluid.
6. Before cleaning everything, visually inspect the rubber seal around the pistons as well as around the rear bleeder screw for any leaks. If you see signs of leaks, then you will need to deal with that.
7. Remove the rotor.
8. Clean everything using brake cleaner. The assembly should be spotless.
9. Slider assembly should be really clean and smooth. Scrub it down with steel wool, clean it and apply a coat of lithium grease. You don't want it to be dragging later.
10. Install the rotor.
11. Install the pads. Make sure to use generous amount of anti-squeak at the back of the pads where they meet the surface of the caliper and the piston. Also lubricate contact/sliding points with the grease.
12. Install the anti-squeak spring.
13. Tighten everything up and you are done with the front side except for the bleeding.
14. The rear is simpler except that you will need a piston compress/rotating tool to compress the piston back it. You have to turn and push at the same time.
15. As for the bleeding, I start at the Right Rear, then to Right Left, Right Front and finally Left Front. You can gravity bleed but I prefer a vacuum pump of some sort. Also the reason that I like ATE fluid is that they are colored differently. If you have blue (super blue) fluid currently, then use gold (200) (Or vice versa) to make sure that you have completely replaced the fluid.
If you haven't done one, then the first side may take you about an hour or two. Then it shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes per side once you figure it out. Also there is a slight chance that you may not get the torx bolts out. If so, just undo the bolts holding the caliper to the bracket and remove the entire assembly. Take care not to damage the brake hose and the ABS sensor.
Tools needed
1. Torx bit (I forget what size, but you will need it to undo 2 for removing calipers.)
2. Socket set
3. Screw drivers
4. Turkey baster (Buy a new one. Your wife/GF/mom will kill you if you take theirs.)
5. Some kind of bleeding tool such as vacuum pump (Optional but recommended)
6. Rear brake piston compressing tool
Supplies
1. New pads
2. New rotors (FYI, there are different size rotors for both front and back. Front should be straight forward as long as you have the proper diameter, but the rear has different hat depth. Verify which ones you have before ordering.)
3. White lithium grease
4. Brake anti-squeak
5. A couple of cans of brake cleaner
6. Steel wool
7. (Optional but recommended) New brake fluid. I like ATE super blue or 200. They are basically the same except the color. Which allows you to make sure that you have fully replaced the fluid.
Procedure
1. Remove the cap at the fluid reservoir. If the fluid it topped off, then remove some using a turkey baster.
2. Jack the car up and remove the wheels.
3. Front calipers are set in place with 2 torx bit each. There is a plastic/rubber cap you need to remove to get to these bolts.
4. Remove the caliper cap and pull the pads out. If your rotors are worn with lips, then stick a flat head screw driver in between the pad and the rotor and squeeze the pad a bit to gain space.
5. Once the pad is out, push the caliper piston back in to gain space to install the new pads. You will need to keep an eye on the reservoir fluid level. You may need to suck out some more brake fluid.
6. Before cleaning everything, visually inspect the rubber seal around the pistons as well as around the rear bleeder screw for any leaks. If you see signs of leaks, then you will need to deal with that.
7. Remove the rotor.
8. Clean everything using brake cleaner. The assembly should be spotless.
9. Slider assembly should be really clean and smooth. Scrub it down with steel wool, clean it and apply a coat of lithium grease. You don't want it to be dragging later.
10. Install the rotor.
11. Install the pads. Make sure to use generous amount of anti-squeak at the back of the pads where they meet the surface of the caliper and the piston. Also lubricate contact/sliding points with the grease.
12. Install the anti-squeak spring.
13. Tighten everything up and you are done with the front side except for the bleeding.
14. The rear is simpler except that you will need a piston compress/rotating tool to compress the piston back it. You have to turn and push at the same time.
15. As for the bleeding, I start at the Right Rear, then to Right Left, Right Front and finally Left Front. You can gravity bleed but I prefer a vacuum pump of some sort. Also the reason that I like ATE fluid is that they are colored differently. If you have blue (super blue) fluid currently, then use gold (200) (Or vice versa) to make sure that you have completely replaced the fluid.
If you haven't done one, then the first side may take you about an hour or two. Then it shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes per side once you figure it out. Also there is a slight chance that you may not get the torx bolts out. If so, just undo the bolts holding the caliper to the bracket and remove the entire assembly. Take care not to damage the brake hose and the ABS sensor.
#3
05-20-2011, 01:32 PM
Thanks for yr reply got the front brakes done I took it for a ride and got a whooshing noise from both front wheels .it does it when the car is in the air and on the ground, what should I be looking for ? The car stops great.
#5
05-20-2011, 04:13 PM
Yeah sorry I understand your point The whooshing noise has gone so I think they was just bedding in the driver's side is clicking when u apply the brake. clicking is made on every rotation of the wheel when u use the brake Thanks again for yr help and continued interest in my issues I just been on a 20mile round trip and its still doing it so I should go back into that side and see if anything needs tightening up but i did use a T-wrench to the specifics of the Bentley manual which just came today
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