1998 30 VALVE QUATTRO

Can anyone tell me how the cams line up at tdc? I know on a saab I just did when the crank pully was at the TDC mark the #1 pistion was at the top of its compression cycle and the intake cam (front point of lobe ) was facing 9 o'clock (facing in) and the opposite exaust cam was facing 3 o'clock (or facing out).
I noticed on this a6, that I just pulled apart to do the thermo that I do not have such an allignment.
On this 30v engine is the #1 pistion suppose to be at it's pinnacle during compression while the engine is at the pully marks? if anyone is doing this now and has the engine locked and cams locked with the tools I'd love to see a pic of each valve system.
Thanks! any input welcome.....

 

Simple answer... Go get a crank locking pin and cam lock bar.

Complicated answer... Crank at TDC mark and #1 cylinder at top as you described it. Holes in front of the cams (there is a flange in front of each cam and there are 2 holes where the cam lock bar goes into) both bank one and two should be lined up in a straight line.

 

At TDC on an Audi, Cyl #3 is at TDC, not #1.

 

I think that correct answer was given before! LOL

 

ok thanks, so #3 then? yes am familiar with the cam locking pin (unfortunately after the fact) but too late I already pulled off the TB so I don't have any other resolution then to try to move the cam back and forth to get it right do I ? Then I can insert the cam pin and lock the crank and start over? it's only off a tooth or two as it fires right up, but I do have a little backfire upon acceleration.

 

I guess I was wrong about the TDC... Anyways, if you have the crank locking pin and the cam lock bar, then there is no need to mess with the TDC. The crank locking pin only locks at one location. There is a tick mark at the crank pulley and there is a alignment mark around 1 o'clock location on the block. Align those two and insert the locking pin. It should lock the crank. Then with the timing belt off, align the holes on both cams and insert the lock bar. Doing it this way is a lot more convenient than trying to get the piston up to the TDC location.

 

Thanks HX (and everyone else) for the update. Yes that makes perect sense. Ordered everything and waiting for the parts. At first I was going to change the thermo (over- heating issue) and dump it but the more My wife and I talk about it I'm thinking I'll keep it.
Can't think of a better extra vehicle to have around (quattro) for colorado living. I mean really what is a 10 year old a-6 worth these days with 135k in average condition?
less than 4k I would guess? Especially since the new american piece we bought last year is in the shop again today!
It does run great and contrary to most issues I have read here this one seems to be pretty reliable. I know I also read that you should replace the vacuum lines
(the tiny 1/8 Id - or so - plastice crap) as they seemed to crumble upon touch. I can't find the post though on who carries them.......

 

Just get a roll or two of generic vacuum tubing (different sizes) from Autozone and have fun changing everyone you can find.

PS Do one at a time so you don't get confused. LOL

 

You would save a few bucks by buying bulk from Autozone, but their vacuum hoses are as bulky as cow dung... and the IDs are very awkward, jumping from a very tight one to a "loose" one. Probably the Autozone in my town sucks as far as carrying every vacuum hose ID, but I couldn't find EXACTLY the same ID hose as the ones in the car. O'Reilly was the same...
For 10-15 more dollars you can get the braided ones from ECSTuning, although the silicone ones are not much more expensive than the braided.
You can buy Blue, White, and Black; plus the oem braided - that would give you 4 different types to keep them "color-coded" in the car. You cannot find brown or the two greens (light and vibrant), unless you inquire to the dealer.