Before you wade though the story, here are a few questions:

Should a track rod fail only 3600 miles after being replaced?
Should a CV gaiter fail after less than 6000 miles?
Should my rear brake pads need replacing after 9000 miles?


I own a 2000 Audi A6 2.4 SE Avant which is great for 364 days a year, but then I have to take it to the garage. I know I have to stomach the expense and have to sort out insurance and tax in the next month, and need to get it serviced and MOTd now. Money is too tight to mention (couldn't really afford the car, but have never been able to afford to change it as I need it pretty much every day, and never had the cash to be able to facilitate such an operation). Been scrimping and saving (and stressing) since the end of the summer in order to afford to get it all done – let's just say there was no Christmas for me! Well, last week the time came and I took it to a new garage (after the feeling that my previous one had been ripping me off), hoping for everything to be straightforward, although not necessarily expecting it to be so. Diagnostic and MOT first and the news was bad; words like 'catastrophic' and 'uneconomical to repair' were not what I wanted to hear. The most sickening thing about this was that almost all the things that caused the 'fail' were work that had been, supposedly, done the previous year. Now I don't know what to do and the panic is setting in. I hope someone on the site (which has always been a place I've come for honest advice from John) can help confirm what I believe and maybe give some advice on where I go from here. Knowing how stubborn mechanics are around here, how unhelpful, I was considering cutting my losses, driving it for the remaining month, buying a beater, then sending it to auction, start on the road to building my dream car. Then, the very day I'd decided that this might be the way out, all of a sudden nasty mechanical scraping sounds coming from driver's side front. So now I'm suddenly carless, can't send it to auction like that (can't imagine many bidders as it scrapes), facing an intransigent mechanic (never his problem, mine - low mileage city driving, Audi, general wear and tear - no sympathy!) and back somewhere behind square one.

I want to give the full history of work done/not done as I think it tells it's own story, but for those who don't want to read all that, the basic questions are:

Should a track rod fail only 3600 miles after being replaced?
Should a CV gaiter fail after less than 6000 miles?
Should my rear brake pads come up for an advisory (wearing thin) after 9000 miles?

Now, for those of you with the time and interest to read, here is the history (I think it says a lot!):

August 2006 109,625 miles went to my local garage to do the work after finding out that gaiters, track rods, etc. needed to be done. Left a note with the garage as comprehensive as someone without all the lingo could manage (bearing in mind I see the front end as a single entity!):

'Front suspension rebuild (shocks don't need replacing though), so all tracking arms/wishbones, bushes plus all other ancillary bits needed for build. Front left CV joint. Rear discs and pads.'

Aside from servicing, MOT, etc., bill ended up as follows:

To replace rear brake discs and pads £185
To replace 1 x CV boot £120
To replace 1 x track rod end £113.50

Total bill £723

Next visit January 2008, less than 6k miles later and another MOT fail, reasons being:

Anti-lock braking system warning lamp indicates an ABS fault
Offside track rod end ball joint has excessive play
Nearside front constant velocity joint gaiter split
Offside front constant velocity joint gaiter split

I asked why he hadn't done both track-rod ends the last time and he very helpfully told me he was trying to 'save me money'. The ABS fault was not investigated because the warning light was intermittent, he didn't have the computer to do the diagnostic (apparently shares it with another garage), then put through MOT when the light wasn't flashing. Again aside from servicing, MOT, etc., bill ended up as follows:

Replace 1 x (offside) track rod end £100
Replace 2 x CV gaiters £260

Total bill £774

Now to the present (finally)!

January 2009 118,773 miles. Thought I'd try a different garage after being singularly unimpressed by the previous oh so charitable attempts to save me money, just get a diagnostic and MOT so I knew where I stood (bearing in mind the tightness of my budget). I've given up expecting positive news from garages but was distraught when I received the call, then angry when given the reasons for the MOT fail:

Nearside and offside constant velocity joint excessively worn
Offside track rod end ball joint has excessive play
Anti-lock braking system warning lamp indicates an ABS fault
Nearside steering rack gaiter split
Advisory on rear brake pads 'wearing thin'

In spite of the new place being an Audi specialist, they didn't manage to give me a proper idea of what the ABS fault might be ('couldn't communicate with the computer'), but were scaring me with the fact it could be the pump, rather than just a sensor which I had hoped. This particular snippet of conversation was the one that brought up the horrible words (potential) 'catastrophic failure' for the ABS, and the suggestion that, to me is a very serviceable car, one that I drive conservatively (being an Audi, what else?), one that I HAVE to rely on suddenly being 'uneconomical to repair'. Couldn't believe it seemed to be exactly the same things all over again, things that had supposed to be done – everything within the space of 9000 miles.

To me this truly is catastrophic. Can't afford to get the work done, can't afford to not get it done, can't afford to pick up a cheap 'beater' car to tide me over until all this is worked out.

If anybody here who has waded through this has any advice I would be hugely appreciative. Am I wrong to feel I have been horribly ripped-off? Have I good grounds for complaint? How do I get through this? Please, dear forum readers, HELP!

MeSoHornet

 

That is one of the longest posts I have ever seen.....

From what I can determine you have an older Audi (Model year 2000 with around 120,000miles) and are finding new problems every time you visit a repair shop.

First thing -- Audi's are not cheep to repair - even if you do it yourself the parts are more expensive than many other vehicles.

Second -- At 120,000 miles you are going to begin to run into things that need work. If your mechanic is trying to save you money and only doing the things that need done immediatly, you should not be suprised to find another list the next time you see him. In statistical terms it is called a Pareto analysis which means the worst things go to the top of the list.

Third -- There is a saying "pay me now or pay me later" It could be modified to "pay me now or pay me more later" Sometimes taking a shortcut actually costs more in the end than doing it right the first time. for example -if the mechanic tried to cut costs for you by using cheep parts they usually fail earlier than the good stuff...

Fourth -- Unless they do a complete diagnosis they are only guessing when they tell you what might be wrong, and even then they sometimes get suprised.

So to answer your three questions:
1 Track rod failure after 3600 miles - not normal - make sure ther are talking about the same one.
2. CV gaither fail after 6000 miles - I assume you mean joint -again is it the same one - there are at least 4 on a two drive Audi
3. Rear pads at 9000 - I would expect 70 or 80,000 but if the ebrake was dragging you could were them out very quickly.

 

The rear parking brake cables may fail causing their respective rear brake pads to drag. Also, the parking brake lever on either of the rear calipers may get stuck due to corrosion and cause the brake pads to drag. Without disconnecting the parking brake cable it is difficult to know whether the caliper lever or the cable is malfunctioning.
The front end of each parking brake cable connects to the parking brake lever at the center of the car, above the exhaust pipe and also the driveshaft if you have Quattro. The reason why I do my own repairs, is so that it is done correctly the first time. I have a 1996 A6 Quattro which I bought used at a very low price, because the previous owner had the wrong shops work their magic. However, everyone knows that if you want something done right you have to do it yourself or pay for it. For parts try: www.vagcat.com

 

I can't get the link to work for a UK site for a manual, so here is the google link:
http://www.google.com/search?q=elect...e7&rlz=1I7RNWN

 

If the rear brake cable sticks, it will keep the pads in contact with the rear disks until you have worn clearance, freed the disks. After that, you can crank the EB as much as you want, you will not adjust the rear brakes. Actually, you will LOSE your rear brakes, as the pedal goes farther to the floor to GET braking action.

Quattro with only the front axle braking is no better than a front wheel drive at stopping. Well, maybe a little, as the axles are more or less connected thru the transfer case, the Torsen thing.NH,

"Gaither" is the same as the US Army used to wear, and the hoi paloi, "gaiters", them booties that went up over the ankles, ala WWI. CV boots, in other words.

PB problem, about as good a reason as you can get to pull on the PB when you park. You keep the brake cable and the adjuster on the caliper free. Also, the calipers work in unison as they are engineered to. Rears touch, pressure builds up and the fronts touch, then full pressure to all 4.

The rears are internally threaded to allow you to apply the PB. If you don't use it, they will wear just enough to not make friction. They can't go any further, because of the internal thread, and this is NOT an AUDI thing. ANY rear disk brake works the same way, just different way of cranking the caliper back in on replacement of the pads.

Cheers,

George

 

You should be able to get an Audi repair manual in the UK from:
www.amazon.co.uk