I know the sides of the sensor are touching the insides of the non foulers because if I would have drilled out anymore then there would barely be any threads and it would just break when I tighten it... Would that cause the short? I figured that the entire outside part would be grounded anyway no? Is seemed like the outside of the sensor is all connected by metal up to the threads or is there a tiny gap there and its not supposed to touch anything? and the sensors were quite a bit bigger than the 1/2 inch drill I got for the job, I had to grind up all the sides with the bit...

 

Actually, I just checked the codes again, they are short to plus.??? I dunno what to do anymore. HELP. Oh and I think i switched my driveshafts around, they are both about the same length, but fully compressed 1 is supposed to be an inch shorter, it was late last night, wanted to finish my car.

 

no1 is going to help me out with this?

 

It shouldn't self ground. I have the non-fouler set up. Did you check the wiring?

What do you mean by changing the drive shaft? How did you get more than one?

I know more questions than answers...

 

front driveshafts, one is 21 5/8ths" and the other is 20 1/2" but i took the squeeky one out yesterday and it was the right size ( driver side = 21 5/8ths") I regreased the cv joint and put a new boot on, no more squeek.

I am 100% sure my wiring on the oxygen sensors is all good, black to black, grey to grey, whites each go to their own white.... I took an old sensor and tested the resistance between the threads and the sensor body and its all connected, so nothing there makes sense. I guess I will have to take them out and play around with them, try the old ones again, maybe these new ones were just bad...

oh and when I cut and solder wires, I cut each wire to a different length and match it up with the other wires. so if black is short on the plug side, it would be long on the sensor side, and then I solder all of them and put heatshrink on them, and I also cut the wire cover longer and compressed it when I did all the connections, then I also added tape at the cut part to join both wire covers together. Am I going to be able to get to the zip tie points on top of the transmission from under the car? I used some heavy duty zip ties, I wont be able to pull them without breaking the wires...?

 

First of all, I have to admit that I never rewired o2 sensors. I just heard many horror stories on our cars with universal type sensors, and replaced mine with the prewired Bosch. With that said, here is a PDF of testing the sensor and the heating circuits.

O2 sensor testing

As for the zip tie points, I cut mine with a long xacto blade with a handle. I have to admit that I never retied it with a new one.

Also about the anti-fouler, mine is the same way. If I used any larger drill, it would have eaten into the thread. My bosch sensor is screwed tight against the non-fouler wall, but it is not seated all the way. I has been working fine for the past 15K miles.

 

have no clue how to get it out now, I had the car on the lift and when I asked the mechanic if he could get the o2 sensors out, and that I used heavy duty zip ties to secure the wire on top of the transmission he said "how?" lol. i think if loosen the downpipes where they meet the exhaust and pull them out from the coupler and drop them, then i'd be able to squeeze my hand in there, then I would have to keep pulling the wires in all directions until those zip ties wear out and break. oh well, life sucks, now my power steering pump is going bad or its the rack and pinion, mechanic said its the powersteering pump because it whines when you turn the wheel all the way to the end. I think its the rack and pinion because its impossible to turn the wheel to the ends with the engine off, you can get close but if I used anymore force on the steering wheel I think I'd break it. Its very hard to turn the steering wheel at any position with the engine off, definitely not normal (I remember being able to turn it with the engine off from outside through the window with 1 hand... I can feel the steering wheel starting to bend and stuff when like 90degrees from the ends, not nice. he checked everything underneath and the only things that are bad are my lower control arms, because another retarded mechanic tightened them without load on the suspension....

 

You don't use solder on oxygen sensors. The solder material screws up the readings from the sensors. Everything on those is very sensitive, and the solder isnt as conductive as the copper wire. Remove the solder (you'll probably have to completely cut that section out) and use heat-shrink wraps instead and just twist the wires together completely.

 

first i twisted the wires and then soldered some of the twist part. there is no way its any less conductive than an uncut wire. I used to make brushless motors, a little solder on a wire does nothing.

 

Give it a shot and see what happens. For as long as I've been workin on cars, I've always heard to never use solder on O2 sensors. Never used it, never had a problem.