This is a good time to buy the GENUINE AUDI 710n diverter valves from ecs tuning. They are only $40 each, you need 2. They got back in stock today (they were out of stock yesterday with an eta of april 20th)

here is the link:
Audi C5 A6 Quattro 2.7T > Search > 710n > ES#581 Diverter Valve, 225hp Audi TT Version-Priced Each - 06A145710N

I dont work nor have any affiliation with ECStuning, and I dont like them because they take like 2 days to ship your order, but this is the best price I have seen for brand new OEM 710N diverters.

 

what improvement do they give over stock?

 

mostly I have read that they are less prone to breaking, and maybe a little better, but you wont notice anything if your diverter valves are perfectly fine. The reason for upgrading them is because the stock diverters can get worse and worse over time and could potentially damage your turbos... also I have read that you can lose power with bad diverter valves (someone did a dyno with a bad diverter valve and had like an 8% increase in whp with new diverter valves).

With my car being 11 years old already, I feel better knowing that I finally got something better than the stock diverter valves.. I have no clue if mine are good or not, but everything is breaking one by one and for the price they are now I'm happy with a $80 set of brand new genuine audi 710n valves.

 

Also judging from your "rs6 cluster" thread I saw you are chipped. The 710n will be more durable with the extra boost. Otherwise if your staying stock the factory DV are just fine. Let us know if you feel any difference once you put new ones down.

 

still not chipped. I tried getting the revo software put in but my ecu was updated at some point and is on software that ends with 002, they only had the software to do the revo software for ecus with software that ends in 001...
I need to do a couple more things before i get the chip...

1. Replace brushes in the ac condensor fan
2. Do a transmission fluid change and then again with gaskets and filter
3. Install oil pressure guage and then try out a 0w-30 oil
4. Figure out what is making the clicking sound from the engine at 1k rpm and up (probably n75 or something)
5. Change sports struts all around (still undecided between sachs, koni, bilstein,kyb,etc)
6. Wheel alignment at the dealer
7. Check for boost leaks
8. Check for clogged spider hose
9. Clean up O2 sensor wiring
10. Order missing clips and stuff here and there, including the belly pan mounting brackets/screws and reinstall belly pan...
etc. etc.
So hopefully before or in the beginning of this summer I'll finally get the APR chip, or giac, still thinking which one I should do...

 

That's quite a list! Lol

Automatic? With chipping aren't you worried that your torque converter will fail? That's my number one concern about my tip. Or else I'd chip. Lol. What year is your a6? How many miles you got,

 

torque converter was a rebuilt unit like 6 months ago, transmission is 60k miles younger with new radial shaft seal (between torque converter and transmission) engine is at 172k miles, runs like new, other than that clicking noise from one of those valve thingys on top... I am leaking oil, from the valve covers only, but I dont care, unless I do find out that my spider hose is clogged then maybe I'll change the valve cover gaskets again (well I only did the passenger side)

2001 Audi A6 2.7T Quattro APB engine, Tiptronic FAQ Transmission...

 

read the last paragraph here:

 

Wow that's true. The only weakness I know of in the 5hp-19 is the TC. ZF had 1998-2004 to correct the issue but they failed every time. Also the reverse drum break causing loss of reverse but this is not a big problem.

If you don't mind me asking how much did the job cost? How much was the rebuild and who would be a good rebuilder?

 

I had a leak from the transmission. It came and went randomly, but mostly leaked. After a week or 2 I had slippage (didn't drive much, only essentials at the supermarket)... I purchased a used transmission with ~95k miles on it for $750 including freight on ebay from a repair shop (they stated the owner of the audi a6 decided to switch to a 6-speed manual) I got the tranmission but the torque converter was missing (got lost in transport) The seller decided to take a broken torque converter they already had and sent it in for a complete rebuild and sent it to me. I took out my transmission and discovered that the leak was from the radial shaft seal between the torque converter and tranmission, its a $12 part if you search google by part number. I did the work myself by getting a $100 lift, plus $20 engine tilt/balance thingy. I had to take the engine with tranmission connected out in 1 piece (I removed the front axles and disconnected the rear,etc,etc). I cleaned the outside of the engine and replaced cam plugs and empied out my downpipes... It was pretty easy taking the engine with transmission out. The only hard part was pushing the whole thing around on the lift. You dont need to be strong at all to do it (I think changing lower control arms require you to be 'stronger' if you do them yourself. It took like 2 days of seriously lazy work to get the engine/tranmission out, and then 2 weeks of waiting for the new seal and other parts and cleaning (decided to change the seal in the new transmission too) and then another 2 days of very lazy work to put the engine/tranmission back in. The only time I broke a sweat was pushing the engine/tranny on the lift, I had to move it about 60 feet from the car and 60' back to the car... The 2.7T looks twice the size of a 3.5L from japanese cars, the tranmission is HUGE!

I still have my old transmission, but this metal ring that goes into the torque converter when you put the torque converter back into the tranmission expanded or something and I cant get it all the way in like it should be. I'm going to order that part and replace the radial shaft seal again (I got 3, I tested putting 1 into the old transmission, and then into the one I purchased on ebay, I'm going to replace the one in the old tranmission again to make sure its perfect) and then I'll sell my old transmission for like $500-$700 locally only...