I'm posting this to answer all the uncertainty and debates that I've read about not being able to use the "rear lower control arm removal" method of doing a CV boot replacement on the 2.7T model. Before I say that everyone who said that you can't do it is wrong, let me clarify by saying that they might have been referring to removing the entire axle. I didn't want to remove the entire axle and chose to replace the boot with the axle still attached to the transmission.

That being said, if any of you read my thread a few days ago about not being able to get my rear upper control arm out, it was a complete and utter failure. I ended up trying a pickle fork as a last resort and still wasn't able to get the rear arm out (front, yes. rear, no). But I did mangle the rear boot to complete oblivion in the process

A few members recommended I do the rear lower arm instead. I questioned the suggestion, as I'd searched and read all these posts about being able to do that on other models, but NOT on the 2.7T. They assured me that I could, so I gave it a shot.
First I reassembled the front upper arm and pinch bolt with anti-seize. Then, it took less than 5 minutes to pop the lower arm out of the knuckle (not the chassis) using a breaker bar as a pry bar on the arm and the pry tab on the knuckle and a little 4 lb. sledge action. It later occurred to me that it probably would've been much easier to jack the suspension up to normal ride height before I tried to pop it out to begin with, but you live and learn. Now I know for next time
As soon as I popped it out, the axle swung right out! After 4 hours of fighting with that damn upper arm!! After that it was very simple, albeit very messy. I used the "old axle bolt" method to remove the joint. Contrary to some others' experiences, I didn't even have to torque it very tightly to get it to pop off, and I was able to remove the bolt by hand once the joint was off. Very easy. I cleaned it very thoroughly, blew it out and cleaned and reassembled the boot kit on the axle. Re-packed it, put the rest of the grease in the boot and clamped everything back up!
It took 10-15 minutes of trying to get the ball joint back into the knuckle before I figured out that I needed to jack the suspension up to ride height while having my wife turn the wheel to be able to fully re-insert the ball joint.
I had a few re-assembly issues and questions that I'll address in a separate thread, but this thread was just to lay to rest the question of whether or not you need to remove the pinch bolt or upper control arms on a 2.7T.
You do NOT.
I'll absolutely be using the rear lower control arm method on my passenger side when the day comes, and I'm actually excited to do so now that I know how easy it is!!!
Thanks to all who jumped in to offer their help in my other threads!
~Jeremy

 

Glad you got it done. It's always an adventure doing the job for the first time by yourself. Just post pictures and a procedure when you do the other side so it's easier for the next guy.

 

I will be sure to! I'll probably order the parts and do it soon as it's showing some cracks (but no leaks) and is destined to go sooner rather than later. At least it'll be a far cleaner job doing it before it fails!!