RE: Every A6 2.7t will need a new torque converter....?
 

Given your symptom's, I would try a filter and fluid change, first. A partially clogged filter will give you the same problem.

Bob

RE: Every A6 2.7t will need a new torque converter....?
 

Bob,

I'll run that idea by my mechanic. He's a certified VW/Audi guy who's very knowledgable and thoughtful about his work. I would have thought he'd suggest doing that if he thought it could possibly work. He generally suggests simpler plausible attempts at fixing things before advising expensive procedures, though.

Have you experienced or known of someone with this problem who fixed it by replacing the fluid and filter? Don't get me wrong-- I appreciate your suggestion-- I was just curious whether you've seen this approach work in similar circumstances.

Thanks,
Andy

RE: Every A6 2.7t will need a new torque converter....?
 

im about to hit 60k, what "fluids" need to be replaced?

RE: Every A6 2.7t will need a new torque converter....?
 

I am in the process of a turbo/ecu/exhaust upgrade while mine is at the dealer to have the turbos replaced. My next question was about the ability of the Tip tranny to handle the additional power. So far, I have two companies here in NJ that offer a beefed up torque converter and valve body. One of them Level10 performance,(www.levelten.com) I am familiar with due to my history in diesel performance. They have a good reputation for their diesel trannys and components. The other IPT, I know nothing about but he answered all my questions without hesitation and seemed to be aware ofthe kind of upgradesI was doing. I will keep you informed of what happens from here.

In my experience (with diesel performance) heat is the biggest reason why transmissions and thier components fail. Heat is mainly generated by slippage. Some slippage is normal and necessary for a smooth shift. Increased power to the crank must go through the tranny to get to the ground! So here is where most of my customers saw thier trans problems (Ford E4OD and Dodge 48RE trans' needed little help towards failure) Most failures occured or originated within the torque converter. Replacing the t/c with something that has more clutch packs with better clutch material such as a ceramic blend, a billet housing, braised finsand better fluid that does not break down so easily is the first step. Increasing line pressures via valve body replacement or enhancement or some other electronic device is the next step.Deeper pans are usually done when the valve body is done and trans coolers is usually the last thing to be done.
Last note about t/c's, make sure the stall speed is right.
I am not a trans expert and, sadly, know even less about my own Tip trans. Consult with a trans specialist. They're out there. Good luck!

RE: Every A6 2.7t will need a new torque converter....?
 

Good informative post 04SLine.

From my readings, Level 10 appears to do good work.

RE: Every A6 2.7t will need a new torque converter....?
 

I had this problem in a couple of cars, both American, and fixed the issue with a filter and fluid change. In both cases, the gunk from the tranny had clogged up the filter.

YRMV!

Bob

im goin through this right now im gettin the trouble code for the converter had the fluid changed to see if that would help it. really no symptoms though other then the slow running for a minute till its warm, even pushing it hard its perfectly smooth

Sounds like an oil pressure problem to me. The converter is just a viscous coupling at these low speeds, so as long as it is full of ATF it will turn the input shaft to the transmission. What I think is going on is the clutch pack(s) for 1st is not getting enough pressure due to a weak pump, shortage of ATF at the valve body pickup, or an obstruction in the valve body itself restricting flow. Less likely but possible is a problem with one of the sealing rings on the input shaft that keep the clutch circuits separated.

To remedy I would suggest dropping the valve body and taking it apart on you kitchen table to avoid any contamination. You will probably need a manual on the transmission to make sure it goes back together properly - lots of balls and springs that have to be right. Alternatively a transmission shop can do this for you.

Does it help if you bring up the RPMs in neutral, let them drop again, then engage 'D'? This would allow the oil pump to produce pressure since it is driven directly by the engine (through the body of the torque converter). If it doesn't make a difference, your pump is probably OK and you have a clog somewhere.

The TC light will come on if the lock-up clutch is not engaging, since this is an emissions improving feature. I don't believe the efficiency of the viscous coupling is measured by the ECM/TCM??

I haven't messed with rebuilding transmissions but I work with new ones every day, about 2000 per day back in the boom times (about 2 months ago!!).

Torque Converter
 

I just had to replace the TC in my 2004 A4 with 35,000 miles. Cost me $3300.00
I read where Audi used rubber plates which don't hold up under heat of the TC.
I hope nobody else has to go through this!

You do know that, when cold, the TIP tranny is designed to stay in first gear longer to help the transmission warm up? Could be what you are seeing.