head gasket
#2
08-20-2009, 02:47 AM
Valve cover bolts - 7 ft lb
Camshaft Sensor Housing bolts - 7 ft lb
Manifold bolts - 15 ft lb
Pressure Relief (Oil) Valve in the Cylinder head - if needed to check or clean - 18 ft lb
Bearing caps bolts (if you need to mess up with the camshaft) - 15 ft lb
Cylinder Head bolts -
a) by hand
b) 44 ft lb
c) Additional 1/2 turn (180°) - it could be 2 x 90°
Removal
- Remove ribbed belt
- Remove timing belt
- Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold
(I pulled out the cylinder heads on my car with the exhaust heads on; so removed the bolts from the downpipe flange - much more room, much easier)
- Disconnect exhaust hose to EGR valve at manifold
- Drain engine coolant at drain plug (the engine block drain plug), AND at radiator drain plug
- Remove air hose between MAF sensor and intake manifold
- Disconnect all spark plug connectors
- Disconnect all harness connectors on the injectors
- Disconnect breather hoses from the valve covers
- Disconnect fuel supply and return lines
- Unclip cover on intake air housing
- Remove both screws under cover
- Push back and lift intake air housing upwards
- Pull vacuum hose off left side and remove housing
- Remove left hand cover for fuel injector lines
- Unclip, disconnect, and uncover accelerator pedal cable (if you have one)
- Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum pump (if applicable) and intake manifold
- Disconnect hose from EVAP canister purge regulator valve to throttle body
- Disconnect harness connectors for Idle Air Control (or ICV) valve and Throttle Position Sensor
Disconnect vacuum hose on cruise control vacuum control actuator
- Disconnect harness connectors for oil pressure sensor, oil pressure switch and camshaft position sensor
- Disconnect vacuum hose on intake manifold changeover valve (blue) as well as from the EGR valve (brown) - if you still have them color coded...
- Disconnect harness connectors for Heated O2Sensors at bulkhead and move to one side
- Remove EGR valve from Intake manifold
(I haven't, bolts appeared too rusted to mess up with them; just left it attached)
- Remove hydraulic hose bracket and Ground wires on intake manifold
- Remove bolts and remove intake manifold
- Seal off openings using clean cloth rags
- Disconnect coolant hose at rear of cyl head
- Remove CO tap tube
- Remove O2 sensor
- Remove exhaust manifold heat shield
- Remove cyl head cover
- Removed T-Belt guard and disconnect hose from hydraulic reservoir to pump
(I haven't ; I just removed the bolts and moved the PS Pump out of the way)
- Remove cyl head
Installing
- Clean sealing surfaces
- Install cyl head gasket
(make sure the lettering on the gasket/s face upward, so toward the cyl head)
- Install cyl head
- Check centering pins in cyl block
- Install cyl head bolts and tighten by hand
Tightening sequence:
* Stage 1 - 44 ft lb
* Stage 2 - additional 1/2 turn (180°)
Tightening pattern:
---------------- 6_____2_____3_____8 --------------
engine front ----------------------------------- --Firewall---
---------------- 7_____4_____1_____5 --------------
This is for an AFC engine FWD, but it should be useful.
good luck
Camshaft Sensor Housing bolts - 7 ft lb
Manifold bolts - 15 ft lb
Pressure Relief (Oil) Valve in the Cylinder head - if needed to check or clean - 18 ft lb
Bearing caps bolts (if you need to mess up with the camshaft) - 15 ft lb
Cylinder Head bolts -
a) by hand
b) 44 ft lb
c) Additional 1/2 turn (180°) - it could be 2 x 90°
Removal
- Remove ribbed belt
- Remove timing belt
- Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold
(I pulled out the cylinder heads on my car with the exhaust heads on; so removed the bolts from the downpipe flange - much more room, much easier)
- Disconnect exhaust hose to EGR valve at manifold
- Drain engine coolant at drain plug (the engine block drain plug), AND at radiator drain plug
- Remove air hose between MAF sensor and intake manifold
- Disconnect all spark plug connectors
- Disconnect all harness connectors on the injectors
- Disconnect breather hoses from the valve covers
- Disconnect fuel supply and return lines
- Unclip cover on intake air housing
- Remove both screws under cover
- Push back and lift intake air housing upwards
- Pull vacuum hose off left side and remove housing
- Remove left hand cover for fuel injector lines
- Unclip, disconnect, and uncover accelerator pedal cable (if you have one)
- Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum pump (if applicable) and intake manifold
- Disconnect hose from EVAP canister purge regulator valve to throttle body
- Disconnect harness connectors for Idle Air Control (or ICV) valve and Throttle Position Sensor
Disconnect vacuum hose on cruise control vacuum control actuator
- Disconnect harness connectors for oil pressure sensor, oil pressure switch and camshaft position sensor
- Disconnect vacuum hose on intake manifold changeover valve (blue) as well as from the EGR valve (brown) - if you still have them color coded...
- Disconnect harness connectors for Heated O2Sensors at bulkhead and move to one side
- Remove EGR valve from Intake manifold
(I haven't, bolts appeared too rusted to mess up with them; just left it attached)
- Remove hydraulic hose bracket and Ground wires on intake manifold
- Remove bolts and remove intake manifold
- Seal off openings using clean cloth rags
- Disconnect coolant hose at rear of cyl head
- Remove CO tap tube
- Remove O2 sensor
- Remove exhaust manifold heat shield
- Remove cyl head cover
- Removed T-Belt guard and disconnect hose from hydraulic reservoir to pump
(I haven't ; I just removed the bolts and moved the PS Pump out of the way)
- Remove cyl head
Installing
- Clean sealing surfaces
- Install cyl head gasket
(make sure the lettering on the gasket/s face upward, so toward the cyl head)
- Install cyl head
- Check centering pins in cyl block
- Install cyl head bolts and tighten by hand
Tightening sequence:
* Stage 1 - 44 ft lb
* Stage 2 - additional 1/2 turn (180°)
Tightening pattern:
---------------- 6_____2_____3_____8 --------------
engine front ----------------------------------- --Firewall---
---------------- 7_____4_____1_____5 --------------
This is for an AFC engine FWD, but it should be useful.
good luck
#3
08-20-2009, 03:23 AM
) Additional 1/2 turn (180°) - it could be 2 x 90°
However, we dont know what engine this is.... 3.0? 2.8? 2.7T? 4.2? Or the year....
Last edited by Midniteoyl; 08-20-2009 at 03:27 AM.
#5
08-20-2009, 10:37 AM
The car is a 1996 A6 2.8 Quattro. Thanks for the reply and as for the question, just bought the needed parts and info from you guys, priceless and more ends up being more informative on different ways of attacking problems. so how about Timing Belt installation info?
Last edited by kuka; 08-20-2009 at 10:40 AM.
#6
08-20-2009, 02:30 PM
Audi > C4 > 1992 - 1998
2.8 Liter V6 2V Engine Mechanical, Engine Code(s): AAH, AFC
13 - Engine - Crankshaft, Cylinder block
Toothed belt, removing and installing
Removing
*** CAUTION!
Mark the direction of belt travel before removing, using a crayon or marker. Reinstalling a used belt in the opposite direction could damage the belt.
- Remove ribbed belt => Page AUDI-C4-GE01-13-003-0213-7.
- Unclip toothed belt guard on both sides.
- Crank engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) position.
- Check camshaft position. Large holes in camshaft sprocket locking plates must face toward each other. If not, turn crankshaft one more revolution.
- Remove Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor from left-hand side of cylinder block.
The TDC hole in the crankshaft must be positioned behind the hole of the removed CKP sensor (visible and/or tangible).
- Screw crankshaft holder 3242 into hole left by CKP sensor, and tighten slightly.
- Remove ribbed belt tensioner.
- Remove left and right toothed belt guard.
- Remove vibration damper => Page AUDI-C4-GE01-13-003-0513-15.
- Remove lower toothed belt guard.
Installing
- Loosen right and left camshaft sprockets from tapered ends of camshafts using puller (Kukko 20-10 or equivalent).
Note:
The arms of the puller must engage on the rear of the sprocket.
- Install toothed belt over both camshaft sprockets first, then over remaining sprockets, then over tensioning roller last.
- Install camshaft holder 3243.
Note:
The camshaft sprockets must be loose enough on the tapered ends of the shafts so that the camshafts can still be turned, but sprockets do not tilt out of alignment.
-
Adjusting toothed belt tension
Adjust toothed belt tension by turning tensioning roller with 8 mm hex socket wrench.
Tighten tensioning roller center bolt with another 8 mm hex socket wrench.
- Check toothed belt tension between right camshaft sprocket and coolant pump.
Check belt tension.
Holding toothed belt half way between camshaft sprocket and coolant pump with thumb and index finger, it must just be possible to twist toothed belt by 90 ° .
- Tightening torque for tensioning roller: 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
Center crankshaft bolt:
Always replace
Use only new double hex head (12-pt.) cap screw grade 9.8
Tightening torque (bolt oiled): 200 Nm (148 ft lb) plus additional 1/2-turn (180 ° )
2.8 Liter V6 2V Engine Mechanical, Engine Code(s): AAH, AFC
13 - Engine - Crankshaft, Cylinder block
Toothed belt, removing and installing
Removing
*** CAUTION!
Mark the direction of belt travel before removing, using a crayon or marker. Reinstalling a used belt in the opposite direction could damage the belt.
- Remove ribbed belt => Page AUDI-C4-GE01-13-003-0213-7.
- Unclip toothed belt guard on both sides.
- Crank engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) position.
- Check camshaft position. Large holes in camshaft sprocket locking plates must face toward each other. If not, turn crankshaft one more revolution.
- Remove Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor from left-hand side of cylinder block.
The TDC hole in the crankshaft must be positioned behind the hole of the removed CKP sensor (visible and/or tangible).
- Screw crankshaft holder 3242 into hole left by CKP sensor, and tighten slightly.
- Remove ribbed belt tensioner.
- Remove left and right toothed belt guard.
- Remove vibration damper => Page AUDI-C4-GE01-13-003-0513-15.
- Remove lower toothed belt guard.
Installing
- Loosen right and left camshaft sprockets from tapered ends of camshafts using puller (Kukko 20-10 or equivalent).
Note:
The arms of the puller must engage on the rear of the sprocket.
- Install toothed belt over both camshaft sprockets first, then over remaining sprockets, then over tensioning roller last.
- Install camshaft holder 3243.
Note:
The camshaft sprockets must be loose enough on the tapered ends of the shafts so that the camshafts can still be turned, but sprockets do not tilt out of alignment.
-
Adjusting toothed belt tension
Adjust toothed belt tension by turning tensioning roller with 8 mm hex socket wrench.
Tighten tensioning roller center bolt with another 8 mm hex socket wrench.
- Check toothed belt tension between right camshaft sprocket and coolant pump.
Check belt tension.
Holding toothed belt half way between camshaft sprocket and coolant pump with thumb and index finger, it must just be possible to twist toothed belt by 90 ° .
- Tightening torque for tensioning roller: 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
Center crankshaft bolt:
Always replace
Use only new double hex head (12-pt.) cap screw grade 9.8
Tightening torque (bolt oiled): 200 Nm (148 ft lb) plus additional 1/2-turn (180 ° )
Last edited by chefro; 08-21-2009 at 02:59 AM.
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