So I bought this new A6...

It's a 2000 quattro, 2.7T 6speed manual. First thing I do on every car is clean it inside and out. So when I got to cleaning the engine, I popped the intake hose off (the bi-pipe, I guess it's called) and cleaned the throttle body with some throttle body cleaner and lint-free rags. Lo and behold, the rubber intake boot is ripped. I also pulled the K&N filter out that was already there and beat some dirt out of it. No need to wash and re-oil it, it's fairly clean. So, I put it all back together, and now I have no power and a CEL. Codes 1128 and 1130. Manufacturer's specific MAF codes.

I figured the torn boot was causing a boost leak, and throwing the MAF code, so I ordered a new one, slapped it on, and no change whatsoever. Still no power, reset the code, and now it's back.

Anyone have any idea on what to look at next? I'm about to go test the MAF using information I obtained from Mitchell's.

I don't have a VAG-com, nor do I have a Bentley manual. I've done alot of searching, and it seems those are the 2 things you pretty much have to have to own an audi these days...

 

you can try to clean the maf sensor. If the KN filter was over oiled, it can foul the maf.

 

I tried that last night, but it made no difference. I thought the same thing.

So today, after driving it and being mad at how it felt like driving a 4 cyl again, i pulled the intake completely apart again, and once again found nothing weird. That is until I took a blow gun to the air filter. Holy crap the oil!!! My hand was literally covered with excess oil from that thing.

That's when I took a look at the MAF sensor again and thought about how poor a job I did by squirting in the cleaner into the housing to clean it. Audi used tamper proof torx screws to secure the maf sensor to its housing, but that can't stop this guy. Out comes the air grinder and a flathead screwdriver. After popping the actual sensor out, I got a much better shot at cleaning it, and what a difference it made!! The car has full power again, and the code hasn't come back after 100 miles since I cleared it.

Looks like I'm going back to a stock dry paper filter.

 

congrats on fixing it. I've read the stock airbox and filter are good for like stage 2 on a 2.7.

 

I've run a K&N for 48k miles, no problems. You just have to let it drain real well. On the other hand, no noticeable difference in performance and negligible improvement in gas mileage. So probably not worth it as long as you don't mind buying OEM filters.