Just posting to say that the fog light mod (wire tap method) was a breeze. It almost took longer to find the parts in my local AutoZone than to do the mod in the parking lot. I wanted to thank Boston Driver for the pictures and Richard Solomon for the original tech article. For anyone interested, the link is below.

http://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/375675.phtml

 

Just a thanks for the information. I posted a question about this in the tech forum on 12/26 and this detailed instruction beats the answers over there. Great work, guys! I'll be visiting Autozone this week for the piece/parts.

 

Glad this post helped you. just keep an eye on the wire of the jumpers...they tend to get crispy over time or if you use the fogs for a LONG time. I also had one of those setups actually melt (the plastic of one of the right-angle taps), but not blow a fuse. Odd...

I switched over to the "nene" fog mod, which requires splicing a wire in the headlight switch. Works great, but fogs are on all the time parking lights are on, and it isnot as reversible as removing the fuse taps.

 

I have also done the "nene" fog light MOD and it works great. I left enough wire from the back of the plug when I cut so it is just an easily reversible. This "nene" method has not crisped wires, blown fuses, or had any problems. One thing as a side note though: My stock fogs burnt out, 1about 2 weeks after the other. When I replaced the fogs, I noticed that the 2 screws that hold the projector lamps in place were really tight. This is normal. What wasn't normal (to me) was that there was still a loose feel to the mount and when you tap on the lower part of the bumper you could see the lamp vibrate. Since this is so low to the ground, these lamps are subject to harsh road bumps etc. When the bulb is hot, excessive vibration could weaken the filament and decrease the life of the bulb. So, I went and spent .65 cents at the hardware store and I bought (8) 1/4" rubber washers and (8) 5/16" rubber washers. On the screws that hold the lamp in place, I put (2) 1/4" washers in front (where the screw goes through the mount hole) and (2) 5/16" washers onthe backside of the mount where it meets the inner bumper. There was plenty of meat left in the screwto tighten up nice and secure.Hitting/tapping the bumper or trying to move by hand revealed NO vibration and movement. This was just a precautionary step to help protect my $100 PIAA investment. When I drove the car I noticed that the bouncy effect in the fogs was gone. I was pleased with the results and for .65 cents and about 15 minutes of time, I thought I would share it with you guys.

 

Question about either method. Do you have to actually pull out the h/l switch to have the fogs come on? Or do they just come on when the parking lights come on?

 

With the nene method, the fogs come on any time the lgiht switch is turned to the parking light or head light position, even if the **** is not pulled out a notch for the front fogs, the fogs are on. With the fuse tap method, you need to actaully pull the **** out the one notch for the fogs to come on, so it is selectable (is that even a word?).

With either method, the fogs cut out whenhighbeams are used.

 

Thanks BD. That clears it right up for me. Nene method, here I come. Autozone, you are getting your fuse taps back.