I just bought a used 2002 A6 Avant. It came with one switchblade remote and a"valet" key. I've lost the remote and the valet only cranks the car and then stops. I called the dealer in Dallas and he said it would be $135 for a new key and $139 to re-program it. Problem is that I have to bring the car to them to have it re-programed and it's over 50 miles away. He told me I would have to have it towed. On the Audi website, they have a list of independent shops listed that are authorized by Audi-but they are even farther away. Dealer didn't even know about them. Is there not someway to use the valet key to get it running? I live about 35 miles Southwest of Dallas, Tx. Anyone know of someone in the area that could help me?

 

eBay has the keys for around 20. Idk if they would work. But they look just like ours and it's uncut.

 

First question is when you crank the engine does the yellow immobilizer indicator light on the instrument panel come on and stay on or keep flashing? It's on the upper right side of the tachometer (lools like a little car with a key in it). If it doesn't go out and stay out pretty quickly, then the immobilizer isn't recognizing your key.
All the keys have a RFID chip in them that sends a nearly unique code to the car. The car must be programmed to each key (up to a total of 4) or it won't start. Did your valet key ever work?
Good news is that the valet key can be used to cut new blades for new switchblades. Any really good locksmith can do that. Bad news is that you need either a VAG-COM or the Audi computer diagnostic tools to do it.
You will also need the electronic PIN code for your cluster to re-set the keys. This is why the dealers charge so much - they have to connect your car via the internet to the Audi factory in Germany to have the proper PIN code generated, which their equipment then uses to re-program the instrument cluster to work with your keys. That's why they need your car.
Another good piece of news is that many locksmiths who specialize in car keys have a reader which can extract the PIN from your cluster. Most of them will come to you to do it. They can also cut new key blades for the new fobs. I just went through all this.
You will need the exactly right fob for both the remote entry and the immobilizer. I ended up buying new ones from these folks: AUDI REMOTE FLIP KEY KEYLESS ENTRY FOB TRANSMITTER | eBay Cost me $123 for 2 of them, and they were an exact match for my vehicle - there are many different ones which look exactly the same but don't work in more than one car. Call their number in the e-bay ad and they will check to make sure you get the right one.
All the keys must be configured to the immobilizer at the same time. If you want the locksmith to set up the valet key so you can drive it for now, they will need to re-do it and all the new fobs when you get them (you tell the ECU how many keys you are programming, and then do them all at once) Sounds like maybe someone set up the fob you lost but not the valet key, which would have flushed the valet key's RFID code out of the instrument cluster (that's where all this is actually done).
I'd call around to local locksmiths asking who they know that can set up the transponder keys for a 2002 Audi Avant. Lots of locksmiths won't or cant, but there's probably someone there who can. Either have them come out and do the valet key so you can drive, or order the fobs and do them all at the same time.
Jim

 

Nice reply, very usefull. Thank-you

 

One other thing - Audis normally come with three different types of keys - the switchblade fob remote, the valet key (metal key with plastic head) and the "master" which is plastic only (no metal at all). Don't try to use the plastic key (master) in the ignition - it's omly purpose is to cut more keys from. If you break it off in the ignition, you're really screwed. If you are using the metal blade/plastic head "valet" key, that's fine.
Also, the plastic "master" has no RFID chip, since it's not intended to be used as an actual key...
Jim

 

#3 post from eejimm is very accurate. Concerning post #5 the all plastic wallet key is thin and as small as it can be. It really is meant to be a wallet key in case all other keys are lost. It does have the chip in it and can be used to start the car. But we don't cut keys off the plastic keys. The key machine used that we have is like the one pictured below. The cut key goes in the left side guide block, the blank goes in the right side block where the cutting blade does its job. For some reason cutting a key from a plastic key or cutting a plastic key results in a key that doesn't work. I know it doesn't make sense, using a plastic key for a guide to cut a metal key should work, but it rarely does. It might be the vibration this machine creates that doesn't allow it to accurately follow the plastic key in the left side guide. I hope this helps out.

 

Jeff,
Interesting to know. I never had the plastic one, just the valet key. I read somewhere that (before it was done by codes/VIN) the dealers would use the plastic one to cut from. I can see where the plastic might deform enough to mess up the cut, though. Also clamping the plastic one in the cutting machine might deform it slightly...
Jim

 

you can browse the diagnostic tool center uobd2.com

 

I have been searching for replacement fobs to avoid the dealership and this place seems to know what they are selling

www.diamondkeysupply.com