the "what am I" piece is where your snub mount would/should be. there should be a hard rubbery "bushing" a little bigger than a hockey puck, it locks on the pin you have pictured and sit in the "pocket" on the radiator assembly that you mention.

since yours appears to be missing seems like a good time for an upgrade. I got an apikol from jh motorsports for mine. 034 also makes a popular replacement.

 

Thanks. I checked out JHM & now see that I was missing rubber snub piece & also missing the snub cage on the radiator assembly. Could this missing mount be the cause of engine jolt/bucking when accelerating from a stop? This happened once when I tried quick acceleration on trip home after buying car.

 

it's a good possibility

 

Got my crank lock pin today & crank sprocket removed OK. Pulled seal, & now time to get new one. Had to use 15/16" 12 point socket w/ 1/2 drive breaker bar to get this loose. Certainly needed the crank lock pin to do this. Anyone have the torque spec for the crank bolt?

Making progress on front CV boot change & front brakes. My son wants to paint the stock calipers, to spruce it up a bit. Gotta get them nice & clean 1st for the paint to stick. Pics to come when we're done.

So let's get back to some CEL discussion. I reposted the codes I pulled from OBDII below. No, I do not have a repair manual, & no I do not have VAG-com...yet. Can't seem to find a used repair manual, & for now, I want to avoid expense of new one. The Lexus repair manual provides step by step instructions to diagnosis cause of specific CEL codes. Does the Audi repair manual do the same? I've seen service manuals for sale but not repair manuals, & I've read that repair manual is way to go. Don't know what to make of VAG-com. Never had, or needed anything more than repair manual & elbow grease on my prior cars. Does it give me lots more diagnostic info that can isolate cause for CEL codes that I can't get otherwise?

To address codes below, so far I have checked resistance on all coils & they check within spec. Plugs are Denso Iridium single and were installed Feb '11, and none appeared fouled. Don't know yet if I can check Cam sensor or crank sensor, but I have easy access to them as I'm doing the valve cover, tensioner, cam, & crank seals.
Experienced advise, guidance, & some guesses are welcome.

Car Info:
2000 Audi A6 2.7T Quattro V6
6sp Manual Trans.
133K miles

CEL (key started):
ABS
Blinking Brake
Airbag

CEL (key on):
All above + EPC light on tach ?

Also center information LCD display not working anytime. (a common problem I've found via searches)

Codes:
P1690 - Malfunction Indication Light Malfunction
P1606 - Rough Road Spec Engine Torque ABS-ECU Electrical Malfunction
P1340 - Crankshaft-/Camshaft Pos.Sens.Signals Out of Sequence
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1519 - Intake Camshaft Contr.,Bank1 Malfunction

 

P1690 and P1606 maybe related. Do you know if the previous owner replaced the cluster and/or ABS unit? It may need to be recoded. This may help.

Cluster Recode

The bottom 3 probably are related to a bad timing belt job from the previous owner.

 

Nope, don't know if prior owner/s messed with cluster and/or ABS unit. I could see a vag-com in my future though.

On to another challenge for now. Since I have the valve cover & cam seal kit, & cam chain tensioner tool, I currently have the left side cams out to change seals. As indicated in prior posting, I aligned crank timing mark, installed crank lock pin, & cam sprocket flange holes were aligned straight horizontal. So prior timing belt job looked good so far. Before removing cams & chain, I did mark to align where cam chain was on both cam sprockets if I wanted to put back the same. But I don't necessarily want to trust others prior work & I want to check cam chain alignment to cam sprockets myself. Drivers side cams are removed & picture of alignment notch shown. The intake sprocket (shown on right of figure, looking forward) has notch aligned with the center of a tooth, not the root (valley) between teeth as I’ve seen in sketches. The alignment notch on the exhaust cam appears almost aligned with a tooth also. I now have a dilemma, because as it was assembled, there were 14 chain rollers between marks while instructions specify 16. I’ve looked at passenger side cams/chain (still assembled) & their alignment marks also appear to be centered on a tooth with 14 rollers between the teeth.

So, does anyone have the proper way to align the cams & chain so I don’t put this together incorrectly?

 

Forgot to mention that before removing the cams, both had their alignment notches directly centered with the cam cap mark ^, so I think this indicates to me that they were positioned correctly. It's just the 16 vs 14 count that's confusing me.

 

I did this sketch for someone else sometime ago. It is 16.



Perhaps that was the reason behind the timing related code?

 

Yes & was thinking the same thing about it potentially causing the codes.

Both left & right banks have exactly 14 rollers between the reference cam teeth (not 16), but the cam alignment marks did align with the arrow on the cam bearing caps. Your picture shows it like I was expecting it to be based on literature, although some sketches show the cam notch aligning with a root, & not the tooth. I didn't notice any apparent rough running on the limited usage (drive home) before disassy, but CEL codes did exist via OBDII.
I'm trying to understand the affect of having 14 vs 16 roller count btw cams. Keeping cams aligned with cap arrow but adjust chain on sprocket to get 16, means I add a links worth of chain slack(2 more rollers) on the top of the tensioner & tighen slack on bottom of tensioner. The tensioner should still keep the chain taught right?, & I expect the cams to turn correctly (maybe) if I crank it over by hand a couple of times once I get timing chain back on.
Anyway, if others can chime in on this subject I'd appreciate it, to hopefully boost my confidence that I'll correctly change how these cam chains are assembled on the sprockets.

 

Here a schematic for the V8 (of course I have the 2.7 V6) showing the position of the 16 rollers relative to the cam marks. This actually has 15 roller btwn the marks, as #1 is before the mark. This layout that is different from yours Hxgaser. Is this the proper position? Still not the same as what was assembled on mine, but if this figure is correct, then I'm only off by 1 roller between teeth, because I have 14 & this figure shows 15. I'm really puzzled why this is so difficult to nail down. I'm thinking of carrying the cams down to the audi dealer & plead to talk to one of their techs to get, yet another opinion.

Link to V8 cam alignment: http://www.csupomona.edu/~bvnorum/eb..._adjusters.pdf