I am don't really know a whole lot about the V8s, but from what I understand the bank 1 and bank 2 have different settings where one is 16 and the other is 15. I don't know which one is which. Once again, I don't really know a whole lot, (if not anything) about the V8s. The V6 is from my experience as well as the elsawin, and mine is working okay. But as usual, if your car blows up, it is never my fault.

 

Quick Update:
I carried my cams, with chain installed as-is, into local Audi dealer & got to talk to one of their experienced service techs. Told him I wanted to know the proper placement of the chain on the cam sprockets. He counted off the rollers between teeth & got 14. Said I'm one off. He says their manual used to specify 14 rollers between teeth, but it was wrong & has been corrected to 15 between teeth. This jives with the alignment figure I found for the V8.

 

I say listen to the tech. I guess I just got lucky.

 

Yeah that's my opinion too, as this guy sure sounded like he knew stuff, not that you guys don't. But he said he's done a bunch of them & afterall, he does it for a living. He said I'm probably throwing some misfire codes because the chain was set-up on 14 count. I shutter to think how much it would cost to have him do this work, although why should I let him have all the fun, & all my money! Anyway, this experience at the dealer turned out much better than it could have. I was wondering if they wouldn't let me talk to the service tech, because money wasn't falling out of my pockets, but the staff was very friendly & the tech seemed sharp. They'll probably see more of me now, at least until they start charging (Ha-Ha).
I must admit, I was about 50% comfortable with the initial idea of moving the chain from 14 to 16. But I feel 99% sure going from 14 to 15. I'll be at 100% after it starts & runs OK w/o throwing codes. But I know the codes could also be related to other things such as the cam position sensor, or bad tensioner, as the Audi guy pointed out.

 

Unfortunately my roof sprung a leak & distracted me away from working on the car for a while. So today my son & I reassembled the drivers side cams, tensioner & seals. Used anaerobic sealant btwn 1/2 moon & tensioner gasket & btwn tensioner gasket & tensioner. Unclear if I was to use it also around the curved part of the 1/2 moon gasket. Left valve cover off for now, so after we get right side done we can replace timing belt & crank a couple of time by hand to recheck cam alignments.

Got passenger side cams off & got an unexpected surprise. Notch on exhaust cam aligns with the peak of a tooth (same as on driver's side) BUT the intake cam has notch on valley btwn teeth (driver's side had notch on peak). What the heck.

This side (passenger) had 15 roller btwn teeth, counting the roller that aligned with intake.
Does the manual cover this discrepancy between cam marks & if so, does it clearly indicate the proper number of chain rollers to be used on banks 1 & 2 and how they count rollers?

For something as important as cam timing I am shocked & frustrated that this is not as straight forward as I had expected. OK, sorry for griping, had a bad weekend messing with a leaky roof, & then this. I'd appreciate any words of wisdom from you guys that have been through this. It goes without saying that I don't want to screw up on this step of the process. Thanks Again.

 

Brief update: roof (of my house) not leaking. Now onto the important/fun (sometimes) stuff. Work on the Audi.

As you can see from my prior postings & pics, I discovered that all cam timing notches, except the right intake, align with the center of a sprocket tooth. The right intake has notch aligned with valley between teeth.
Left Side Before Removal
Had 14 rollers btwn teeth. I interpret this as 14 rollers between cam notches, since on left side the notches aligned with a sprocket tooth.
Left Side Re-Assy
I changed to have 15 rollers btwn the teeth.
Right Side Before Removal
Had 15 rollers btwn teeth, including the 1 on the intake valley.
Right Side Re-Assy
Kept it as-is

Assembled sprockets & T-belt while keeping cams aligned & turned crank 2revs several times. Each time when crank @ mark both exhaust cam sprocket flanges perfectly horizontal & exhaust cam notches dead center on cap ^. However, both intake cams' notches are slightly off the cap ^. Due to CW T-belt rotation, the left side chain is tight on top & has the tensioner pushed down, while the right side chain is tight on bottom & somewhat loose on top & tensioner is pushed up. So if the tensioner were activated to be more centered, then (based on my calibrated eyeball) I would expect the intake notches to then align correctly too. Anybody with me on this logic, or is it wishful thinking. Comments welcome.

 

At this point, you have done all you can. As long as you pre-loaded the timing belt while the cam sprockets were off, then you should be good. Don't forget to prey to the car god. I do that every morning. Both to the car god and the parking god.

 

Heck, I though he would have replied to my postings by now...or has he?
Yes, TB pretensioned w/ cam sprockets loose. I expect this is as confident as I can get, while the engineer in me wants to be certain all's well before reassy. So going to start buttoning it up & address other issues. I expect I'll need to quit procrastinating and get a vag-com to monitor this & other items in the future.

 

Hey all. Here's latest on the A6. Put all back together & fired it up. No leaks, Yeah! Now to deal with the codes & CEL's. Cleared codes using my OBDII unit. Still showing:
P1340 - Crankshaft-/Camshaft Pos.Sens.Signals Out of Sequence
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
But had these before changing most the leaky oil seals, and I didn't necessarily expect them to go away. Next I think I need to check crank position sensor & cam sensors. If anyone knows how to do it via multimeter, please advise. Searching, but haven't found enough info yet. So for you guys that have vag-com, would it provide more information to help me isolate cause of codes?

Had instrumentation cluster repaired to fix center display. Looks good as new now... except I still have multiple CELs as before. Didn't expect these to go away either. Now to tackle through these too:
EPC light
ABS
Brake
Check Engine
Air Bag

 

Need some help trouble shooting why rear speakers don't work. Old front & rear speakers had surround that was falling apart. Replaced front speakers with new & they work fine. Rear speakers however, don't seem to be getting any power. Not sure if they ever did when we bought car. I checked right rear amplifier & we are getting 12V to the red/blue wire & we have good continuity btwn speakers & harness at amp. Need some clues for what else to check. Is it a common problem that rear speakers &/or amp go bad?