Major Clunk in Front Suspension - Pass. Side
I just replaced my upper and lower control arms, struts and TRE. Everything was Mayle (FCP Groton) and struts are bilstein sports. I thought I put everything back as Bentley describes but have thus aweful clunk when hitting pot holes, speed bumps. Sound usually comes from expansion of strut and spring not at compression.
Everything is torqued to Bentley's specs. Nothing is loose.
Had Evans tire look at it since they performed the alignment. They can't find anything loose, Went back to repair shop and they didn't notice anything out of the ordinary either. Everything is tight subframe and suspension parts.
Could it possibly be the way the spring is seated in the strut tower assembly? Running out of options and patiences!!!
Everything is torqued to Bentley's specs. Nothing is loose.
Had Evans tire look at it since they performed the alignment. They can't find anything loose, Went back to repair shop and they didn't notice anything out of the ordinary either. Everything is tight subframe and suspension parts.
Could it possibly be the way the spring is seated in the strut tower assembly? Running out of options and patiences!!!
Last edited by dray; Sep 10, 2011 at 02:24 AM.
I think most of us have that as well, from what i've seen over the years from different posts and what not it just doesn't go away. I've had my entire suspension re-done last year and similarly had clunking afterwards, especially now.
Last edited by nm3210; Sep 9, 2011 at 02:50 PM.
Start by taking one of the sway bar links off. Does the clunk go away? If so, replace the sway bar to body bushiings. If not, remove, disassemble and carefully reassemble the front strut on that side. You may have left a rubber bushing out. Next, loosen all the suspension bolts, drive about 20 feet, then retorque them all while the car is on the ground. This will let the bushings relax into their neutral position before you torque all the bolts. Next to last, replace the strut. Last, trade the car in.
Good luck - I have this job in my near term future if I do not exercise the final solution!
Bob
Good luck - I have this job in my near term future if I do not exercise the final solution!
Bob
Bob you're trouble shooting recommendations are worthy. At first I thought maybe the new sway bar drop links were hitting some portion of the lover control arm so I removed them from both sides of the car and the clunk was still there. No change.
Last week when I took it to my mech. he did exactly what you recommended as well. Loosened all the bolts nuts and bolts and re-torqued. No change.
Yesterday I removed the strut tower assy again and followed the Bentley guide to the T. Realigned the spring perch so the little hole in the middle of the spring saddle is next to the car - torqued the shock bolt to right spec - re-assembled. No change.
Also, checked left side to right side - everything is the same! About ready to send all the Meyle parts and Bilsteins back to FCP Groton for a refund and go with OEM.
Personally, after driving it around with the Bilstein Sports I don't notice any difference. Granted, i have the sport option, which is nothing more than I believe stiffer stock springs. The Bilsteins Sports are no more aggressive than the stock SACHS OEM shocks. PLUS THEY RAISED THE RIDE HEIGHT BY 1" Save yourself some money.
Helpful hints:
1. Baring my noise problem - anyone can replace the suspension parts on their car. It's really not that difficult and pretty straight forward.
2. If you have a high pressure washer spray everything down before you begin to get the road grime off - if not get some quarters and go the local DIY car wash.
3. It's easier to remove the whole strut tower assembly if your replacing the upper control arms. (three 15MM bolts inside the engine compartment)
4. When removing TRE - count revolutions to get the old TRE off then when you install the new one use the same amount of revolutions (you may not be dead on but you'll be pretty darn close)
5. Borrow ball joint tool and spring compressors from your local auto parts store.
6. STAY WITH OEM AUDI PARTS (if possible) the number of hours I've spent on this project would have paid for the difference.
I am not through trouble shooting my problem (unfortunately). But don't get discouraged I did the driver side one Sat. and never had any issues. Three weeks later I did the passenger side and that's where the noise is.
I will conquer this problem!! BTW: I love this car so selling is not an option, besides who would want a clunker!!
Last week when I took it to my mech. he did exactly what you recommended as well. Loosened all the bolts nuts and bolts and re-torqued. No change.
Yesterday I removed the strut tower assy again and followed the Bentley guide to the T. Realigned the spring perch so the little hole in the middle of the spring saddle is next to the car - torqued the shock bolt to right spec - re-assembled. No change.
Also, checked left side to right side - everything is the same! About ready to send all the Meyle parts and Bilsteins back to FCP Groton for a refund and go with OEM.
Personally, after driving it around with the Bilstein Sports I don't notice any difference. Granted, i have the sport option, which is nothing more than I believe stiffer stock springs. The Bilsteins Sports are no more aggressive than the stock SACHS OEM shocks. PLUS THEY RAISED THE RIDE HEIGHT BY 1" Save yourself some money.
Helpful hints:
1. Baring my noise problem - anyone can replace the suspension parts on their car. It's really not that difficult and pretty straight forward.
2. If you have a high pressure washer spray everything down before you begin to get the road grime off - if not get some quarters and go the local DIY car wash.
3. It's easier to remove the whole strut tower assembly if your replacing the upper control arms. (three 15MM bolts inside the engine compartment)
4. When removing TRE - count revolutions to get the old TRE off then when you install the new one use the same amount of revolutions (you may not be dead on but you'll be pretty darn close)
5. Borrow ball joint tool and spring compressors from your local auto parts store.
6. STAY WITH OEM AUDI PARTS (if possible) the number of hours I've spent on this project would have paid for the difference.
I am not through trouble shooting my problem (unfortunately). But don't get discouraged I did the driver side one Sat. and never had any issues. Three weeks later I did the passenger side and that's where the noise is.
I will conquer this problem!! BTW: I love this car so selling is not an option, besides who would want a clunker!!
Last edited by dray; Sep 12, 2011 at 11:59 AM.
Any change to the clunk? I'm a brand new TT owner. I got a great deal on a 2001 TT 225...yesterday! It has a clunk from the front end but everything seems very tight. I didn't notice it until I drove it home from the dealer last night (250 miles), it only does it on very rough bumps. Otherwise quiet and smooth running!
Kenneth
Kenneth
Final reply: the clunk was coming from the shock moving in the upper shock mount bushing (the big black piece of rubber between the upper spring mount and chassis). Apparently the shock upper shaft vibrated against the metal ring in the middle of the mount making the hole bigger and bigger. I've replaced the shock mount and the noise has subsided quite a bit. Once in a while on hard braking there's a little noise in the same area. I think the strut is still moving slightly between the bushing and shock mount.
Bottom line I'm not sold on the Meyle parts. I know I haven't had any issues with the driver side replacement but the passenger side has caused enough frustration that I'll stay away from aftermarket parts.
Additionally, don't waste your money on the Bilstein Sport replacement struts. Stay with OEM or replace the whole coil over set up. The Bilstein Sports aren't that impressive.
Bottom line I'm not sold on the Meyle parts. I know I haven't had any issues with the driver side replacement but the passenger side has caused enough frustration that I'll stay away from aftermarket parts.
Additionally, don't waste your money on the Bilstein Sport replacement struts. Stay with OEM or replace the whole coil over set up. The Bilstein Sports aren't that impressive.


