New Spark Plugs a DIY Job??
#1
12-14-2004, 05:42 AM
New Spark Plugs a DIY Job??
I want to try and change out the spark plugs on my 01 A6 2.8. I ordered Bosch Plugs, F 7 LTCR. They arrived and I opened a box and they had 3 prongs. I am assuming they come pre-gapped, If not, how do I gap them? Am I getting in over my head here? Special sockets? Wire pullers? Hard to get at them??
Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the advice.
#2
12-15-2004, 11:53 PM
RE: New Spark Plugs a DIY Job??
Come on people help me out here.....
Or is it a stupid question?????????????????????????????
Or is it a stupid question?????????????????????????????
#3
12-17-2004, 09:19 PM
RE: New Spark Plugs a DIY Job??
It's not a stupid question -- all the experts out there in the ether have been there. If the plug you're using is the factory-recommended replacement, the owner's manual / repair manual / dealer service dept will have the info on proper gap. If they are not, the parts store where you got them should have an application manual that lists the right gaps for your buggy. When I used the multi-prong beauties in the past (I don't anymore), I found they are pretty consistently gapped right out of the box; just eyeball them in case the box was dropped and one plug took the fall.
The plug wires on the 2.8 can be destroyed if you try to yank on them or are in too much of a hurry to pull them off. You need to grip the plug boot as far down in the plug well as possible with a set of plug wire pliers -- they're ususally plastic and available most anywhere tools are sold -- then turn the boot side-to-side to break them loose from the plug, and then pull them up and off. You'll need a plug socket with the rubber insert to grip the plug as you lift it out (and put the new ones back in). You'll need a 5"-6" extension to reach them. If you mess up a plug wire, you can buy a set of three for either the right or left side from a good foreign parts house.
Two other tips: 1. after you get the plug wires out of the way, take a look with a light to make sure there's not a bunch of dirt and crud around the plugs -- you don't want that stuff in the cylinders when you remove the plugs. Blow out the wells with an air hose or rig up a length of small diameter hose or tubing to your shop vac and suck the crud out. 2. Be careful of the plastic breather manifold that links the heads together. After awhile they get pretty brittle with engine heat and break if you look at them crosseyed. They don't repair well and will cost you $160 at the dealer.
The plug wires on the 2.8 can be destroyed if you try to yank on them or are in too much of a hurry to pull them off. You need to grip the plug boot as far down in the plug well as possible with a set of plug wire pliers -- they're ususally plastic and available most anywhere tools are sold -- then turn the boot side-to-side to break them loose from the plug, and then pull them up and off. You'll need a plug socket with the rubber insert to grip the plug as you lift it out (and put the new ones back in). You'll need a 5"-6" extension to reach them. If you mess up a plug wire, you can buy a set of three for either the right or left side from a good foreign parts house.
Two other tips: 1. after you get the plug wires out of the way, take a look with a light to make sure there's not a bunch of dirt and crud around the plugs -- you don't want that stuff in the cylinders when you remove the plugs. Blow out the wells with an air hose or rig up a length of small diameter hose or tubing to your shop vac and suck the crud out. 2. Be careful of the plastic breather manifold that links the heads together. After awhile they get pretty brittle with engine heat and break if you look at them crosseyed. They don't repair well and will cost you $160 at the dealer.
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