Oil leak - seals?
I replaced the crank ventilation hoses and valves (the 'pump' was clogged, hoses briddle); I am sure this contributed to the oil leak (oil dripping onto exhaust on both sides).
I have the valve covers off, timing belts etc off.
I have a complete gasket/seal kit on hand.

Now the question: what seals should I change:
- the front cam shaft look dry.
- hard to tell about the rear seals
- ditto cam chain tensioner seal (passenger side tensioner currently compressed)
- rear 'plugs' (read they also have a tendency to leak).

Should I change the cam seals, even so the front look dry?
What about the cam chain tensioner seal? How do I get to it? The tensioner is compressed, bolts removed, is loose. But can't figure out how to get it out from under the chain?
Really would like to change the rear seals and chain tensioner.

Will NOT change the front crankshaft seal.

Car is 1999 A6 2.8l 30V, 100k miles.

Links for how to's needed, particularly chain tensioner, rear seals, cam removal (if needed to get the tensioner out), rear cam seals.

Any tips and suggestions.
Need to get it done asap.

Thanks.

 

Do you have the crank pin in and the cam lock bar in place? If so mark the cam chains and sprockets with nail polish for reference, not for timing. Unbolt the cams and lift them off with the tensioner in place. Don't try to remove the tensioner. Just set the whole assembly aside. When you pull the cam caps make sure you keep track so they go back in exact order. They are marked so it's hard to mess up but there is a little guide on each cap that fits in a hole in the head so don't force anything. Replace all your seals and reassemble in reverse order. Do not use RTV except on the corners of the VCGs. Be careful with cam position sensors. Take photos to follow on the way back or make good notes. Don't over torque the cam bolts. Your passenger side cams will rotate if they didn't already due to valve pressure. Jjust put them back according to the flat on the diamond washer. Easy. STFA for write ups and photos. There are tons of them.

 

Thanks man. Doesn't sound too bad. Crankpin is in. Chains, timing belt, cam sprockets, cams all marked for reference. Timing belt cam sprockets pulled off (and yes, the passenger side rotated). Cam tensionioner is compressed and loose. How can you lift cams out with chain still on? The slack is not enough to get chain of the sprockets, it seems.

What is in the rear of the engine that should be replaced or re-sealed? cam bearing caps? (no space back there to work).

 

Go ahead and lift the 2 cams and the tensioner out as a unit. They will lift right up chain and all. Mighthave to wiggle a little. Set them on a piece of cardboard on the bench or the floor and cover with a shop towel. On the right rear, left as you face the engine, there is a half moon seal and the tensiner seal. It's the reverse on the driver side. All that stuff is in the front. Do the cam end seals while you're at it. They are real easy with the cams out. Just pop the old ones off and slide the new ones on. Don't worry about any of the cam caps unless you see scoring on them or the cams. That's a whole other can of worms so don't go there. Reassemble in reverse order. Place the cams back where they belong and carfully replace the caps and tighten in a criss cross pattern. Careful with the torque. 7 ft. lbs. is all. If you don't have a torque wrench go get one.

 

Done! Easier than I thought. Didn't know/think the cams had split housings.

Cleaned the gasket and seal surfaces.

Should I do a final wipe down with brake cleaner on a rag?

Then: were to put RTV sealant?

When to put the cam seals in? First put the end cap on and bolt down, than push seals in?

Ditto caps on the rear?

Can I ignore the marks I made on the chains (just make sure the cams sit as they should)?

 

Don't ignore your marks. Put the cams back the way they were. Very important.

 

Cams and cam chain tensioner come out at the same time; not that difficult actually.
Seals: recommended to put caps on first, then push on shaft/into hole. Works for front, but NOT for back (no space to push them in). Inserted rear seals and rear plug before putting top on. Hope it seals.

Also bought and changed out the brittle, broken, PITA plastic corrugated crank vent lines and the check valve AND the 'injector pump (the plastic "Y"). Turns out, one of the 3 legs was plugged (new flowed, old did NOT). This may have been the (main/only?) cause for my oil leaks (smoke driver and passenger side when dripping on exhaust/header).

Now, can't figure out where the 3rd leg of the Y goes. The straight out (12 o'clock" I have. What connects to the 1 o'clock leg of the 'pump' (the one going out on an angle; finger pointing (was also the one that was plugged on the old pump).

 

Unless someone else gets you the answer I will take a look tomorrow. My car is at my shop. I would say to put the same hose back on the new one as you took off the old one but that would be the snarky answer. It's my recollection that the one you are pointing to faces the firewall.

 

Yes, it branches off, direction towards firewall.
Just don't seem to find a loose hose hanging around in that area that goes on there (didn't take pic of the area before ripping out; duh!).

Need to do the same on my 2.7T and my 2.8L 12V.

Would like to source the 'pump' and check valve (and do ghetto fix with hoses; can't afford $180 for a kit, aside from the fact that at least Blaupart is not offering a similar kit for the 2.7T or the 2.8 12V). Sources?

 

That hose probably fell down behind the intake manifold. I believe it has a built in elbow in it by the way.