Ole Smokey, as I call my '02 A6 2.7t tip, got all new oil seals yesterday in an attempt to stem the flow of natural resources attempting to return home. It was an all day job for me and my mechanic buddy as we stripped the front of the car off, removed the TB and the cam gears, pulled the valve covers off, pulled the cams out on the passenger side and replaced all the seals. On the driver's side, we couldn't see how to get the multi-function valve off to get the cams out so we did the shortcut method for the cam tensioner seal, but since the cam gear was off that was easy to do. On the passenger side, you remove two allen head bolts off the exhaust shield, remove the exhaust temp sensore, move the shield back an inch then you can get to the three bolts that hold the multi-function valve in place. On my car, this needs to be removed JUST TO REMOVE THE CAM COVER! What a piece of work! And, it only has to come off because they located the vacuum nipple over the cam cover. If they just located it at the back of the valve instead of the front, it would not have had to come off. On the driver's side, because we could not see how to get it off, we used a judicious amount of pressure on the valve to get the cam cover on and off. So, if any of you aftermarker guys are listening, I'm in the market for a pair of multi-function valves with the nipple on the back!

Anyway, back to the story. We noticed oil leaks from both valve cover gaskets (note: I use cam cover and valve cover interchangebly - I mean the same thing), the passenger side front cam seal and tensioner seal and the driver's side plug seal. WE replaced all the seals except the driver's side rear seal because you can't get to it (due to reasons already mentioned). We also replaced the TB, idler pulleys and spark plugs while we were at it.

One of the toughest parts of this job was getting the trans cooler lines out of the radiator! They did not want to come out!!! Once out, they did not want to go back in!!!!!! Assembly lube helped but it was still a tough job.

So, 176,000 miles and Ole Smokey will get a new name (for a while). Since the shocks are getting old and the control arms loose (again) maybe I should call her the Old Buckboard...

Bob

 

Good to hear Ole Smokey came through surgery OK. Based on your # of postings, I'd assume this was not the 1st time for seal replacements, or is it? Did you happen to use the cam lock bar? If not, I'd be interested in any issues encountered. Also, did you used the cam chain tensioner tool, & if so, how'd it go? I came across this posting that didn't praise it much. http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1617932

 

3rd time. Used both tools mentioned. I've done the TB without the cam lock bar but the bar is the only way to go! The issue with the tensioner tool is that it doesn't want to slip past the tensioner body onto the pad and it tends to torque itself sideways and break the plastic holding the bolt in place. A cast steel or aluminum unit would do a much better job. If I was going to do these all day long, I would see if Snap-On had one.

AS for the job, it's just a lot of bolts!

Bob

 

Hey Bob,
Since you've been thru this 3X, & I'm at 1/2X, I consider you an expert. I'm in process of doing cam & tensioner seals on my son's 2000 A6 2.7T & was wonder if you could shed some light on the alignment of the cam chain to cam sprocket & the "16" chain roller info. See pictures & questions I posted on page 2 of this link:
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/aud...-a6-up-174154/
I'm assuming you have encountered similar issue with your car.

 

Do you have the cam tensioner compression tool? If not, get it before you read any further. If so, compress the cam tensioner. There will be a mark on each cam. There should be chain 16 bars between the two marks when both are vertical. Now, insert the cam tensioner not worrying about the cams other than keeping the teeth engaged. Roll the cams around until the flat on the front of the intake cam is vertical. Gently insert the cam gears and tensioners into the head. You may have to rotate the cams to get them to settle in especially on the passenger side. Insert your new seals, tighten your caps and start reassembly.

Good luck - mine is leaking again already!

Bob

 

Wow, sorry to hear you're leaking already. Just slower I hope. A new spot or one you already "fixed"? Thanks for the info, & hope I'm not stepping on your posting. I do have the tensioner tool & have marked cams & chain, & removed all for replacing seals. Both banks on my engine have "14" rollers between the cam marks. Just talked to an Audi Tech & he tells me it should be 15. You & others say 16. I'll definitely not do the 14 again.
Heads = 15, Tails = 16

 

15 between, 16 inclusive.

And the oil leak is serious. Something has failed already. The car is leaking like a tanker on a coral reef! Greenpeace has a boat circling my car! BP is getting a rig ready!!!

I see a number 4 in my future....

Bob

 

Hmmm... 3X makes you an expert, but 4X fixing a mistake may take you down a notch or 2.
Did you check you parts box and find any extra cam seals or valve cover gaskets left over?
Anyway hope you get it solved.

I'm settled on 15 btw. So I think we'll start sealing things off & reassemble. I chose not to tackle rear main seal because 1) not certain it was leaking with all the other mess, 2) to much work for now. With it cleaned up & hopefully most other leaks patched up it'll make it easier to diagnosis later.

 

Be sure to use anaerobic sealant on the tensioner gaskets.

 

I did but I hate those tensioner gaskets. The valve cover should have covered the whole area and that gasket should've been unneeded.

Bob