I own a 97' A6 Quattro. So yesterday on the 26th I jumped my battery. Drove it around for about 8-9 miles, car worked fine. I came back home, turned off the car, went to turn it back on to see if it took the charge. Accessories would turn on, but the car wouldn't crank (it did this the last time I went to jump it, car started fine, but when I would turn it off and go to turn it back on it wouldn't start). Obviously the battery is bad. Took it to Sears the next day, they checked it, it was definitely bad, got a new battery. Replaced the old battery with the new one (which is under the backseat), hooked everything up fine. The accessories come on, everything operates, but the car will not crank at all. I had them check the battery before I left with the new one and they said usually it takes charges up to 700ish, but this battery was really good at 850+. So the new battery is definitely good.

When I called back they said it could possible be the starter (it is 4 degrees F after all right now, but yesterday I was able to start it fine in -5 degrees F with the bad battery). I had my wife try to start it while I had the hood up so I can locate any sounds or weird noises. When she starts it, I can hear 1 or 2 single clicks coming from the engine area or possibly the starter. The guy from the Sears Auto shop told me that possibly shifting my car into drive and getting the car to move a little bit would get the stater to shift enough to start, or just plainly hitting with a hammer works also. I tried shifting the car but I cannot get it to move by pushing it because I'm parked on snow. I haven't tried the hammer method because I don't have a jack/jackstands. So here are my questions...

1.) Is it probably the starter?
2.) If it's the stater does anyone know where it's located on the 97 Audi A6 Q specifically?
3.) Is this job doable by myself if all I've ever done is replace a battery or a tire?

Thank you for any help.

 

On my 1995 after starting the car I have to physically bring the key back to the "on" position to disengage the starter, otherwise it will wear out in time.

Is your key "springing" back by itself after you start the car?
If not, probably your starter wore out from remaining coupled over time. While with the dead battery still crancked up, maybe that was its last "breath".

If I come around it, I will take a look in my engine bay to check for location and take a photo (since probably they didn't change locations in only 2 yr-span). it should be toward the rear of the engine, as that's a "safe" location for corrosion typically.

Also, maybe you can check the ECM too.
The ECM should in theory protect the engine by shutting down the ignition system if the engine doesn't start within 10-12 seconds or so. Normally it should start instantly. This is based on the assumption that there may be a major mechanical problem, which would be aggravated if the engine were to fire.
Since you already jump-started it several times, maybe the ECM is the culprit.

 

If this started right after you (and I mean you, not a mechanic) changed the battery, then the most likely cause is loose battery terminals. You will need to remove that back seat, remove the terminals, clean them with a good terminal cleaner, clean the posts as well, put the terminals back and tighten the nuts. Make sure they are both good and TIGHT!

Bob

 

Well as far as I can tell the key does what it normally does when I start the car even if it's running fine. How would I check the ECM? I never heard of that term before and looked it up in my manual and I can't seem to find anything on that. I'm assuming it stands for Engine Control Module?

 

I think I'll try tightening the terminals even though they seem tight enough already. I just hate taking that backseat out, I've done it 3 times the last 2 days already. LOL

I might try that cleaning stuff, but also when I turn it on accessories the volts meter goes up to 12-13. So it seems to be getting enough juice to start. The terminals look fine. I can't find any dirt on them at all because the battery hasn't be touched since I had the car. All I see is exposed silverish metal.

 

Also I just find it really odd that my starter would seemingly just go bad. I've always gotten it to start on the first start every time minus the times my battery was dead or almost dead. I've never had to crank it twice or anything. Then when I jump my car to see if my battery is bad, drive it, come back, turn off the car, turn the car back on it won't crank (and I hear a bunch of clicking sounds inside the cabin that aren't coming from the engine, which seems to happen if the battery doesn't have enough juice).

Then I go get a new battery, it won't crank (but I hear no clicking sounds compared to the bad battery). All I hear is 1 or 2 clicks from the engine area.

I tried tighting the terminals. They're pretty tight. I didn't clean them, but shouldn't have to. I don't think they'll get any cleaner than they already are.

 

The ECM can be pulled out and inspected/smelled for burns. Jump-starting actually sometimes faults the ECM.

Anyway, I said maybe the ECM is the culprit. However, when you have power and hear clicks, most typically it is the starter at fault.
I think we can rule out the coil pack and the spark plugs, as you started the car prior to going to Sears for the new battery.

One more thing would be to inspect also the fuel pump relay. Can you hear the fuel pump kicking when turning the ignition on?

 

ICM (Ignition Control Module)???

 

No I cannot. Ironically since you brought this up I think I'll get 2 gallons of gas tomorrow. The one time I ran out of gas and I went to start my car it made the same exact sounds, but I'm doubtful of this since my gas light didn't even go off before I got home. It was a little under a 4th of a tank, but it is acting as if it doesn't have gas in it. So I think I'll check to make sure there is at least 1 gallon in the system.

 

No, I'm talking about Engine Control Module (ECM).
Sometimes even its relay can go bad due to a power surge (e.g. jump-starting the car).