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Time for a brake job. Some help

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  #1  
Old 01-02-2009, 04:12 PM
DjDiddles's Avatar
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Default Time for a brake job. Some help

I need to replace my front pads but I want to make sure there is nothing special I have to do? I have done a ton of other cars but never the Audi. I know the rear pads you had to have a special tool so the caliper piston goes back in correctly but not sure about the front. Typically I just remove the caliper and using a C clamp I press the caliper piston as far back then replace the pads and put the caliper back on! Thanks for the help!
Oh yea! I have an 01 A6 2.7T Quat
 

Last edited by DjDiddles; 01-02-2009 at 04:16 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-02-2009, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DjDiddles
I need to replace my front pads but I want to make sure there is nothing special I have to do? I have done a ton of other cars but never the Audi. I know the rear pads you had to have a special tool so the caliper piston goes back in correctly but not sure about the front. Typically I just remove the caliper and using a C clamp I press the caliper piston as far back then replace the pads and put the caliper back on! Thanks for the help!
Oh yea! I have an 01 A6 2.7T Quat
front usually has a plug , so if u may have to get the pads with sensor , and also on 01 i think are 3 type of rotors, u may check on that first , made sure u buy the right pads/rotors.
 
  #3  
Old 01-03-2009, 11:21 AM
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You may also want to consider upgrading the front break lines to stainless steel and a fluid drain & replace. Paragon performance in cali makes good lines. I did it on my96 a6 avant and the breaking is noticeable better.
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:58 AM
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If you have the big calipers that take 4 pads, it's very easy to change the pads if that's all you want to do (and not change the rotors.) You just stick a flat screwdrivers in the slots on the rotors and gently pry them outwards. The pads will lift right out. You have to unplug the one that has the sensor. Then just slide the new pads in, plug up the sensor and push the brake a couple of times.
 
  #5  
Old 01-14-2009, 10:41 AM
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Thanks for the advice!! Still haven't done it! Every weekend I try it's either snowing or freezing cold!! How do I know which rotors I have? When calling around to get the price on the pads they have said 2 different ones are available. I think it was either a 321 MM rotor or 312 MM rotor. Again, thanks for the help!
 
  #6  
Old 01-14-2009, 08:18 PM
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The rotor size is driven by the number of pads, 2 per side or 4. You have to pull a wheel to find out. For the 2 pads per side car, you will need a metric allen wrench assortment (cause I can't remember what size you need), a 21 mm socket and a 10 mm socket. Oh, and the aforementioned big c-clamp! The allen wrench is to remove the ABS sensor bolt. The 21 mm socket is to remove the caliper mounting bolts. The 10 mm socket is to remove a, um, something I can't remember, but you need to remove it to get the pad wear sensor wire routed correctly. And, you know what the big c-clamp is for!

That's all there is to it.

Bob
 
  #7  
Old 01-15-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bob martin
The rotor size is driven by the number of pads, 2 per side or 4. You have to pull a wheel to find out. For the 2 pads per side car, you will need a metric allen wrench assortment (cause I can't remember what size you need), a 21 mm socket and a 10 mm socket. Oh, and the aforementioned big c-clamp! The allen wrench is to remove the ABS sensor bolt. The 21 mm socket is to remove the caliper mounting bolts. The 10 mm socket is to remove a, um, something I can't remember, but you need to remove it to get the pad wear sensor wire routed correctly. And, you know what the big c-clamp is for!

That's all there is to it.

Bob

Great!! That helps a ton!!! Seems just like a few extra steps but pretty easy!!
 
  #8  
Old 01-15-2009, 12:55 PM
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And for what it is worth, resetting the piston on the rears can be done with some ingenuity and a friend. I used a set of needle nose pliers with skinny tips. My friend would hold the caliper, or wedge it some how (a 2x4) so it can be pushed on, and I would open the pliers and stick the tips into the groves in the piston and push really hard and turn. This is by now means easy and adds about an 1 hour of labor. I could not find the correct piston reset tool anywhere and was already ***** deep into it. Doing this in the jerry rigged fashion requires great care and patience. If you slip and nick the piston boot you just FUBARd yourself. I am trying to hunt down the correct piston reset tool.

I had no trouble at all with the fronts. No special tool required.
 
  #9  
Old 01-15-2009, 03:49 PM
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In a pinch channel locks and the c-clamp will work on the rears. just don't squeeze either too hard.
 
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