could be the torque convertor solenoid or the valve
they may have some of that gum right there
i don't see really how that gum would cause the tc to go bad but it would be easy to imagine it creating problems for the valve and tcc to function correctly.

give me some time to review the manual a little to see if the bently describes procedures to r&r the valve body.

I am for certain in some transmission that the tcc and valve can be removed without removing the valve body. but with an audi one never knows.

I would say if the tcc and valve body are accessible w/o removing the valve body they should be removed and inspected/tested first. we can proceed from there. The valve body has little ball bearings and springs and tiny little parts that were designed to be installed with the trans up side down. so for a first timer it can become a pita to get them in there but you can do it.
however you need clean ground to work on. God forbid one of those litle suckers gets away from you.

I'll get back with you
do a search in the meantime for an ATSG manual on a ZF519FLA or a ZF manual itself. and a shift kit and all of the solenoids, with no upgrades.
trust me if you have to you can drill the valve body the instructions are easy have faith.

 

The TCC is in the TC, which to remove would require removing the transmission. I'm pretty sure nothing can be inspected except the valve body by removing it.

Have you ever inspected a transmission filter after removing a transmission to replace a failed TCC? I'd imagine there would be more stuff in the filter if the TCC seal failed.

 

ok i am not that familiar with the zf because i have not yet needed to screw with it.
so i cant tell you exact location of it.
the "tcc" is a term used for the torque convertor clutch solenoid.

the tcc is accessed through the transmission pan because it needs fluid. so you shouldn't have to remove anything. is your pan off. can you take a photo of the valve body and all of the solenoids.
sometimes they are stuck into the valve body some times they are off to the side of it, but i swear it's in there.

First thing to inspect is this, the solenoid controlling the tc lockup, it is connected by wires, it is possible they were loosened when you were in there so make sure the connections are tight and snug, use a pick to tighten the females up a bit.

I would like to see you remove the solenoid and test it with a 9volt battery rigged up with wire so you can actuate it by hand and listen for a click.

It seems to me your problem is right there at that solenoid.
it was working before you went in there but not after.
I am thinking
the connection is loose, and the solenoid is not getting power.
the connection became loose and fried the solenoid.
or some of the gum got in there and is screwing with the valve.
some of them have little screen filter that can be cleaned

Did the transmission immediately start screwing up after the oil change.
You might have loosened a harness when you were in there.

I guess you could just pope all of em out, if you don't want to guess which one it is and inspect them all, but make certain you inspect the o-rings and pre-lube them with some fluid before you put them back in to prevent tearing the o-ring.

just make certain you actuate them with a little 9 volt battery and you will hear a click, inspect the ports to make certain none of the gooooey mystery substance is in there.
if it is clean it out or replace the solenoid. All they are is an electrical gate that allows fluid to pass or not.

I really think your problem is with that solenoid from the description your giving.
That solenoid gets actuated and tells the torque convertor clutch to lock up when you get going at higher speeds.

 

The TCC started to fail to lock up about 300 miles after the fluid/filter change. And no way did I touch any of the VB wiring.

The car is presently all put together and running; albeit with the code. I'll do another ATF change in a week to try to get more of the Redline out and inspect the filter for more gel. At that time I'll do a more thorough inspection of the VB and solenoids.

What can I clean the VB with? I thought I read it can be sprayed down with brake cleaner.

 

Absoluley brake fluid and compressed air.
just remove the o-rings carefully so they don't dry out due to the break fluid.

And just cause you didn't touch the harness doesn't indicate it doesn't have a bad connection. This is an Audi after all and failing electrical connections is the premier problem i had with both of mine.

If they don't make a solid contact they do not get the full voltage and fail to work. I really really think it has something directly to do with that solenoid.

You are obviously inclined well enough to take it from there, just the way your speaking to me I can see that. so who knows what is happening with the solenoid or the ports but the line pressure should be enough to push any jelly like substance through the ports which leads me to the assumption that it could be a bad connection or solenoid. Lets hope so cause that's an easy fix.

My fingers are crossed!

 

Part of the analysis came back from Redline. The clear gel is silicone. Does anyone know if any of the seals in the transmission and/or torque converter are made from silicone? Or know where the silicone could have come from? Would that cause the TC to fail to lock? Note: I did not use any kind of gasket sealer nor was there any evidence that there was gasket sealer or anything like that used in or around the transmission.

 

There's no silly cone in a trans unless someone else put the pan on with goo, but you would have seen it.

Did you check the tcc solenoid yet, I know it's fun to put a car back up again but it does sound like the problem.

 

Could you post the outcome of this thread? I ask because my 2004 Audi A4 3.0 that was purchased this past July with 64,000 miles has started to throw the P0741 code a couple times now about a month between codes.

It seems to drive fine except it seemed to not want to shift into high gear above 60 mph, otherwise it seems to function as normal.

I suspect the tranny still has the original fluid. Contemplating a transmission fluid flush, filter replacement and possibly a solenoid replacement when the pan is dropped.

Would it be best to have this accomplished at a reputable transmission shop vs. an Audi dealer?

What are acceptable transmission fluids for the tranny shop to use?

Thanks~Mark

 

I ended up selling the car because I didn't need it. But it would have needed a new TC to be fixed. If your RPMs fluctuate at 60mph while giving it a little gas you need a new TC.

I would have a reputable shop do it (dealer or independent). Just give them the symptoms and see if they naturally come to this conclusion. If so, they are experienced enough that they've seen it plenty of times and have corrected the problem. It's expensive, but a necessary evil of owning one of these cars.

Stick with the OEM fluids! I honestly believe the Redline had different characteristics that caused my TC seal to fail. But it was probably ready to break anyway.