Pm,d back

 

I assume that's a double din rns setup Gysty? Probably more custom work on my Mk1 than I am willing to put in.
Still contemplating.....

 

nop, TT MK1 only came with voice guidance gps, if you only needs the radio and cd changer i will sale it to you for $60 + shipping

 

PM'd you.

 

Pulled the cowl panel today to replace the cabin filter, obviously original.
While disconnecting the washer heater plugs I found the reason the washers were not working,
The plastic pipe between the rubber T- piece and the nozzles were both broken.
I cut one plastic pipe in half, scooted the T rubber over the other one and put a piece of rubber hose
over the plastic pipe I cut. Reassembled the cowl.
Washers work perfect, 30 minutes and a 2" piece of rubber tubing. Done.

 

During the timing belt/water pump/thermostat replacement I discovered the crossover pipe for the double-intercooled
1.8 litre installed on my fwd 180 hp roadster. A rather heavy bracket assembly across both frame horns, obviously designed
as part of the structure. Given that the 180 hp fwd is a single intercooled assembly, I found it odd that the piping was included
on my roadster.
I suppose it was less expensive during production to install one assembly in all models and connect or not depending on options.
Interesting....

 

Old top had rear glass missing, faded and ripped, doomed. I followed the link for the most part, good pics:
https://public.fotki.com/mcphill/aud...p-replacement/
Sped the removal process by cutting the old top at the perimeter. Loads of little screws, shims and fiddly fasteners.


Once completely removed, I discovered the rain rail (essentially a rubber 'trough') had failed its joint at the rear upper trim. If you have a roadster, put the top down and look at the rear edge.
If you see your inner carpet, your rain rail is no longer attached and water is entering at the back edge seal. That rubber seal to top material is NOT watertight!


That sewn-in yellow tape is what Audi used to attach the rain rail to the underside edge of the plastic vertical trim. That 'tape' needs to be removed, threading cleaned off, and the edge of the rail and the underside of the trim cleaned well with denatured alcohol. 1" Xfasten Velcro was then applied to the rail and the underside of the trim (helps to remove some of the trim fasteners). Then the rail was attached to the trim. It can lay in the storage area until the top is fully on, then the rubber trim piece can be inserted and pushed down to lock onto the rear bar.

The hard part is then ahead. Attaching the top to the rear bar is a real PITA. In hindsight I would have removed the roll bars and replaced the top while the interior was completely
stripped. Working around the bars, seat headrests and windscreen leaves little room. Removal of the rear bar completely from the car is not possible due to the wiring for the rear glass and
switches, which the top goes around under and up for fastening. And the harnesses disappear into the nethervoids, no connectors accessible.
All in all, an exercise in patience. Review the pics, check your progress, and select the beer of your choice when it gets too hairy. The results will be worth it.

 

Top done, took a ride early am to get the state inspection. Punched up test 49 on the Climatronic, noticed the temps never got above 70c...
Knew the large fan was inop, but the gauge was reading midpoint... 65c running at speed.
Already had the fan and thermostat, so switched them both out. Not bad to do, just fiddle with the lower thermo housing bolt, but easier with
the alternator harness removed from the locator stud.
Back up and running, both fans work normally, temps 90-93c, plenty of heat. Now gauge reads about 3/4 way, so need to pull the cluster glass
and the gauge needle, run it to normal and reattach the needle. A common issue with the needle getting 'bumped up' when shut off, from looking
at numerous posts on many sites.
Cleaned it up and attached the under hood trim.

 

Over the last two months if left sitting for more than 3-4 days the battery would drain to the point of no start, but still had electrical power for
windows/cluster and such. I had a couple hours today after work so I hooked my Fluke meter up set on milliamps between the battery negative
and neg cable while I finished some console work with everything else off. Tripped the door latch closed, and watched it go from about a half an
amp to 160-170 milliamps, and stayed there. At almost 2 tenths of an amp I had my draw, enough to pull the small battery down in 3-4 days.

I had the notion it had something to do with the radio, so pulled that fuse and in half a minute the parasitic load was 35-40 milliamps. Pulled the
radio and removed the aux I-pod usb adapter I got off ebay, reconnected the radio and fuse back in. Back to 160 milliamps or so for a minute,
then dropped to 40.

Just to verify I plugged the adapter back in and rechecked, and it held 160-170 as long as it took me to finish the console. Evidently the circuitry in
the adapter was not allowing the radio to go to 'sleep', causing the draw.

I like my usb sticks, so I may investigate a micro toggle switch to remove the power input to the adapter when the car is off. FM sucks, and discs are a hassle.
Cheers!

 

I an a newbie, and thanks for this thread: you are more skilled an braver than I, for sure!

I just bought an 02 last week, and the first time down/up with the top, it got stuck on the up. The plastic trim piece that protects the window from the deflector hardware was loose, so the glass was hanging up on that... any guidance on how that attaches now that you've been though all this? I think I need a new piece, all the vertical "slides" are cracked or broken in two, but I'd like to attach it for the time being and you know your stuff!! Cheers!