|
'02 100K Roadster Resurrection
Off today to pick up the TT, Green over green over green. Back window loose for the last two years, water in floorboards and dead battery.
Disassemble, clean and dry. Car is straight, well maintained until it began to go crazy. CCM and other modules/cluster/switches likely toast. I will post with progress, Cheers! |
Long day, removed trunk stuff/liners, seats, console and carpet. Removed as much water as possible with a shop vac, wiped the rest.
Dehumidifier is next step to clean the interior. Battery checked DOA, new battery installed but not hooked up yet. Fuse center pulled and sprayed with terminal cleaner, all fuses checked. Finally found the CCM, disconnected and removed from case. Evidence of corrosion on lower connector and pins, cleaned with terminal cleaner and soft-pads cut in tiny pieces with hemostats to clean pins. Reinstalled, battery connected and system powered up. Initial results: radio in 'safe' mode, would not unlock. Cluster no pixels, gauges dead, some lights on. Engine starts but shuts down 2-3 seconds. Pulled fuse 11, 15 and checked again/reinstalled. Chiming from cluster, fuel/temp began working. Fired engine, ran well and all lights off in cluster. Ragtop/window functions work as designed. Digital display has pixel issue, due for sendout/repair. Hvac system working as designed. Windscreen has blown belt/maybe drive screw issues. Radio accepted code after an hour being powered up, sounds fairly good for a small system and CD player still works So after the day, fairly surprised, no major issues. A couple of bulbs, and a major cleaning of everything due. Need to decide on a new top or hack the back window with a sewn in plastic (probably not!). Thinking black over the green, or stick with the green? Opinions? More as I go, pics when I'm authorized. Cheers! |
Cluster and more
Cluster display wonky, surprise. Ordered new display. Replaced 2 bulbs, found the broken belt for the windscreen.
Another not surprise. Disc changer also dead. Decided on black top, looking at timing belt condition tomorrow as I have no history on the maintenance. Cheers! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...3dd91df954.jpg |
|
|
Good job, im on the same boat too, mine is still apart because im replacing the whole sound system, i got the canvas replaced for a new one, paid $650 for it, installed myself, no too bad, the soft top closes with the switch but it wont open, think that the module is bad.
|
Thanks, have the top for mine but yet to install. My switch was full of soda or coffee, knackered. Took it apart and cleaned, now the top
works both directions. Replaced most of the interior last two days, dyed the carpet black. CD changer was dead, took it out, now the in dash single changer dead, fighting with that issue. It sounded excellent before it decided to take a shyte, have a parts radio so I will see what happens. Trunk back together, cluster in, windscreen belt replaced. Center console shattered when removed, found a black replacement on ebay. |
from what I've seen the top connections at the rear bar are the most difficult. Is it possible to remove the rear bar
completely out and secure the back top flange? |
You can remove the bars taking off the 6mm torx screws behind the back seats. Behind the driver side on the sift top storage area underneath the black cover, there is the sunroof motor and relays but it is also controlled by the body control module, which is also located somewhere on that area. If you wanna keep all the factory stuff i still have all mine and i can sell to you cheap, radio, cd changer and navi.
I just trashed one center console, it was cracked but complete, i got the shifter replaced because of excessive play, got all control arms and sway bar links replaced, coil overs installed, timing belt, thermostat and water pump done, my heater didnt work and i got the dash removed and blender doors fixed, and bunche other things that just slips out of my mind. |
Might take you up on the audio stuff. I'll PM you.
|
Pm,d back
|
I assume that's a double din rns setup Gysty? Probably more custom work on my Mk1 than I am willing to put in.
Still contemplating..... |
radio
nop, TT MK1 only came with voice guidance gps, if you only needs the radio and cd changer i will sale it to you for $60 + shipping
|
PM'd you.
|
Pulled the cowl panel today to replace the cabin filter, obviously original.
While disconnecting the washer heater plugs I found the reason the washers were not working, The plastic pipe between the rubber T- piece and the nozzles were both broken. I cut one plastic pipe in half, scooted the T rubber over the other one and put a piece of rubber hose over the plastic pipe I cut. Reassembled the cowl. Washers work perfect, 30 minutes and a 2" piece of rubber tubing. Done. |
During the timing belt/water pump/thermostat replacement I discovered the crossover pipe for the double-intercooled
1.8 litre installed on my fwd 180 hp roadster. A rather heavy bracket assembly across both frame horns, obviously designed as part of the structure. Given that the 180 hp fwd is a single intercooled assembly, I found it odd that the piping was included on my roadster. I suppose it was less expensive during production to install one assembly in all models and connect or not depending on options. Interesting.... |
Old top had rear glass missing, faded and ripped, doomed. I followed the link for the most part, good pics:
https://public.fotki.com/mcphill/aud...p-replacement/ Sped the removal process by cutting the old top at the perimeter. Loads of little screws, shims and fiddly fasteners. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...0dd66c0000.jpg Once completely removed, I discovered the rain rail (essentially a rubber 'trough') had failed its joint at the rear upper trim. If you have a roadster, put the top down and look at the rear edge. If you see your inner carpet, your rain rail is no longer attached and water is entering at the back edge seal. That rubber seal to top material is NOT watertight! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...1e60cd76ea.jpg That sewn-in yellow tape is what Audi used to attach the rain rail to the underside edge of the plastic vertical trim. That 'tape' needs to be removed, threading cleaned off, and the edge of the rail and the underside of the trim cleaned well with denatured alcohol. 1" Xfasten Velcro was then applied to the rail and the underside of the trim (helps to remove some of the trim fasteners). Then the rail was attached to the trim. It can lay in the storage area until the top is fully on, then the rubber trim piece can be inserted and pushed down to lock onto the rear bar. The hard part is then ahead. Attaching the top to the rear bar is a real PITA. In hindsight I would have removed the roll bars and replaced the top while the interior was completely stripped. Working around the bars, seat headrests and windscreen leaves little room. Removal of the rear bar completely from the car is not possible due to the wiring for the rear glass and switches, which the top goes around under and up for fastening. And the harnesses disappear into the nethervoids, no connectors accessible. All in all, an exercise in patience. Review the pics, check your progress, and select the beer of your choice when it gets too hairy. The results will be worth it. |
Top done, took a ride early am to get the state inspection. Punched up test 49 on the Climatronic, noticed the temps never got above 70c...
Knew the large fan was inop, but the gauge was reading midpoint... 65c running at speed. Already had the fan and thermostat, so switched them both out. Not bad to do, just fiddle with the lower thermo housing bolt, but easier with the alternator harness removed from the locator stud. Back up and running, both fans work normally, temps 90-93c, plenty of heat. Now gauge reads about 3/4 way, so need to pull the cluster glass and the gauge needle, run it to normal and reattach the needle. A common issue with the needle getting 'bumped up' when shut off, from looking at numerous posts on many sites. Cleaned it up and attached the under hood trim. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...a762aeb17e.jpg |
Over the last two months if left sitting for more than 3-4 days the battery would drain to the point of no start, but still had electrical power for
windows/cluster and such. I had a couple hours today after work so I hooked my Fluke meter up set on milliamps between the battery negative and neg cable while I finished some console work with everything else off. Tripped the door latch closed, and watched it go from about a half an amp to 160-170 milliamps, and stayed there. At almost 2 tenths of an amp I had my draw, enough to pull the small battery down in 3-4 days. I had the notion it had something to do with the radio, so pulled that fuse and in half a minute the parasitic load was 35-40 milliamps. Pulled the radio and removed the aux I-pod usb adapter I got off ebay, reconnected the radio and fuse back in. Back to 160 milliamps or so for a minute, then dropped to 40. Just to verify I plugged the adapter back in and rechecked, and it held 160-170 as long as it took me to finish the console. Evidently the circuitry in the adapter was not allowing the radio to go to 'sleep', causing the draw. I like my usb sticks, so I may investigate a micro toggle switch to remove the power input to the adapter when the car is off. FM sucks, and discs are a hassle. Cheers! |
I an a newbie, and thanks for this thread: you are more skilled an braver than I, for sure!
I just bought an 02 last week, and the first time down/up with the top, it got stuck on the up. The plastic trim piece that protects the window from the deflector hardware was loose, so the glass was hanging up on that... any guidance on how that attaches now that you've been though all this? I think I need a new piece, all the vertical "slides" are cracked or broken in two, but I'd like to attach it for the time being and you know your stuff!! Cheers! |
Congrats on the Roadster, fun ride!
The wind deflector cover has no bottom fasteners, it just hooks at the upper lip under the metal rail that is the support for the wind screen. It's a pain to remove, and a bear to get seated. The bottom edge rests in the carpet cutaway. Squeeze the upper section until you can get the lip fully inserted into the metal rail at the top. My strips were also cracked. I attempted to glue them back with JB Weld and clamps...held for a few days then let go again. Better to remove them completely and any residue to prevent the sharp edges from damaging the top. The part 8N0864401C24M is discontinued, and I haven't found an unbroken one yet. Good luck with your TT! |
Thanks! I appreciate the info, I was thinking on my drive home today that removing everything might be the way to go. I finally looked at all the top replacement photos you linked, and there was 1 that showed a little, at least! It's a fun car, so far, even if the turn signals don't want to work all the time...I'll be searching the forums for that as well!
|
New Shoes for the Teet!
Installed a new set of Riken Raptor ZR tires today, 235/45/17's. It's a whole freaking new car. Still have to break them in, but initial impressions are good. Quiet, sticky, and a hell of a lot safer than the Bridgestones that had cracks running between the tread all a round! On to paintwork cleanup! |
Reinstalled under belly pan.
|
Coolant leak at flange
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...11abf2c13e.jpg
Over a few days of driving I noticed the sweet smell of coolant, loosing a 1/2 inch or so a day in the reservoir. No drips on the floor, so I ran it up to temp and got the flashlight and mirror out, and began looking at the left side. Coolant on the trans, and after a few moments found the leak at the coolant flange, typical weak point. A small crack, just enough to let a small quantity out while running. Easy enough to do. Covers off, air box out, break the 5mm bolts loose and Move the clamps back on the hoses. Bottom hose off first, then rear, then remove the bolts and get the front hose off. Easier if you use a hose release tool to break the seal between hose and flange. Clean the mess up. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...5c1b8ad364.jpg Install in reverse, fill and run it up and top off. No more dribble. Don't forget to get a new o-ring for the coolant temp sensor. Your old one will be shot. |
Replaced the starter, original had a bendix wind-down whine.
Not hard, took about an hour. I have the 180hp 5 speed fwd, '02. Other models may be different. Disconnect and pull battery Remove air box Bungee electrical center back Remove battery box - 4 T30 torx bolts and one 10mm nut Remove 13mm ground bolt cable Remove box brace - 4 10mm nuts Remove 13mm nut from upper starter bolt, holds the wire loom Remove 13mm positive cable from starter Remove both 18mm starter bolts (long bolts) and remove the starter. Reassemble in same order. The front left Torx bolt holding the battery box is kind of hidden, push the box over to the right and use a long extension and a magnet for those deep bolts. |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...5537067112.jpg
Greetings from West Michigan! I have been working on this blasted piece of plastic every summer it seems trying to find this right fix. The wind deflector at the metal rail that supports the wind screen trim - The plastic strip hooks on the piece thats below this metal strip are also broken on mine on both sides. I have it pictured and it has been removed. Although my windscreen still works, based on all the failures of it I have heard/read about over the years, I have decided not to bother using it, in fear its will be in a position where it half way up/down and would then have to fix. This way by not using it, its down and my trim fix will not play a factor. I can always wear a hat. I do however, like to make use of my tonneau cover and I need the trim to be in place. My fix for reattaching the plastic trim piece on top, behind the power wind deflector as follows: Years ago, I tried two-sided tape to keep the plastic bonded to the metal which works ok in addition to various types of Velcro. My current fix has the fuzzy side of Velcro bonded on the backside of the plastic trim. On top of the metal frame, I've taken industrial 2 inch strips of a plastic locking loop version of velcro. It has a strong adhesive back. I cut them to the correct width strips, attached them one by one to the metal strip. Finally, I took the plastic trim piece with the left over fuzzy side of velcro on its underside and pressed down onto the plastic velcro strips. Its fairly flush all the way down with the exception of both ends. I apologize for not having photos of what I did, not discovering this thread until after the fact. I only have photos of the trim piece with the broken ends, one of the clips, both metal retainers they would have clipped to along with an example of the HD industrial plastic loop version of Velcro I used. Rudy https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...6f6202337d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...7097a67c6c.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...f64e7abcf7.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...f32e7df2b4.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...69d92f32f9.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...6c80c7716d.jpg |
I had the same quandary Rudy, not being sure the belt wouldn't break given that the right screw shaft was slightly buggered, And the trim was broken before I got her,
so a fix was in order. Belt was replaced, and I used JB Weld to epoxy the trim back into place. It all held well, and the wind screen worked as designed. I especially liked the 'auto down' function of the windscreen when putting the top up. It all flowed together and was a blast to drive. I sold her a few months ago, miss that bugger! I may have to look for another to satisfy the need. Good luck with yours! |
Talked to the current owner of my '02 TT today. He's put 10K miles on her without a single issue. Says the more she's driven the
better she runs. Glad he's enjoying her, makes all the time I invested in the rebuild worth it! |
Hi guys! Audi TT is my old dream. But I was always short of money for it. And I did not want to buy an old one, and a new one was not affordable for me. I moved to New York, https://worldcams.tv/united-states/n...k/times-square, and honestly saying I do not see many of these cars on the streets here. Now I am thinking whether it is worth buying at all.
|
That cracked plastic cooling pipe is a very common problem--has happened twice in with our 2001. H.ard to find unless the engine is hot and cooling system pressurized
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:53 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands