Congrats on the Roadster, fun ride!
The wind deflector cover has no bottom fasteners, it just hooks at the upper lip under the metal rail that is the
support for the wind screen. It's a pain to remove, and a bear to get seated. The bottom edge rests in the carpet cutaway.
Squeeze the upper section until you can get the lip fully inserted into the metal rail at the top.
My strips were also cracked. I attempted to glue them back with JB Weld and clamps...held for a few days then let go again.
Better to remove them completely and any residue to prevent the sharp edges from damaging the top.
The part 8N0864401C24M is discontinued, and I haven't found an unbroken one yet.
Good luck with your TT!

 

Thanks! I appreciate the info, I was thinking on my drive home today that removing everything might be the way to go. I finally looked at all the top replacement photos you linked, and there was 1 that showed a little, at least! It's a fun car, so far, even if the turn signals don't want to work all the time...I'll be searching the forums for that as well!

 

New Shoes for the Teet!

Installed a new set of Riken Raptor ZR tires today, 235/45/17's. It's a whole freaking new car.
Still have to break them in, but initial impressions are good. Quiet, sticky, and a hell of a lot safer than
the Bridgestones that had cracks running between the tread all a round!
On to paintwork cleanup!

 

Reinstalled under belly pan.

 

Over a few days of driving I noticed the sweet smell of coolant, loosing a 1/2 inch or so a day in the reservoir.
No drips on the floor, so I ran it up to temp and got the flashlight and mirror out, and began looking at the left side.
Coolant on the trans, and after a few moments found the leak at the coolant flange, typical weak point. A small crack,
just enough to let a small quantity out while running.

Easy enough to do. Covers off, air box out, break the 5mm bolts loose and Move the clamps back on the hoses. Bottom hose off first,
then rear, then remove the bolts and get the front hose off. Easier if you use a hose release tool to break the seal between hose and flange.
Clean the mess up.


Install in reverse, fill and run it up and top off. No more dribble.
Don't forget to get a new o-ring for the coolant temp sensor. Your old one will be shot.

 

Replaced the starter, original had a bendix wind-down whine.
Not hard, took about an hour. I have the 180hp 5 speed fwd, '02.
Other models may be different.

Disconnect and pull battery
Remove air box
Bungee electrical center back
Remove battery box - 4 T30 torx bolts and one 10mm nut
Remove 13mm ground bolt cable
Remove box brace - 4 10mm nuts
Remove 13mm nut from upper starter bolt, holds the wire loom
Remove 13mm positive cable from starter
Remove both 18mm starter bolts (long bolts) and remove the starter.
Reassemble in same order.

The front left Torx bolt holding the battery box is kind of hidden, push the box over to the right and use a
long extension and a magnet for those deep bolts.

 

Greetings from West Michigan!

I have been working on this blasted piece of plastic every summer it seems trying to find this right fix.
The wind deflector at the metal rail that supports the wind screen trim - The plastic strip hooks on the piece thats below this metal strip are also broken on mine on both sides.
I have it pictured and it has been removed. Although my windscreen still works, based on all the failures of it I have heard/read about over the years, I have decided not to bother using it,
in fear its will be in a position where it half way up/down and would then have to fix. This way by not using it, its down and my trim fix will not play a factor. I can always wear a hat.
I do however, like to make use of my tonneau cover and I need the trim to be in place.

My fix for reattaching the plastic trim piece on top, behind the power wind deflector as follows:
Years ago, I tried two-sided tape to keep the plastic bonded to the metal which works ok in addition to various types of Velcro.
My current fix has the fuzzy side of Velcro bonded on the backside of the plastic trim. On top of the metal frame, I've taken industrial 2 inch strips of a plastic locking loop version of velcro.
It has a strong adhesive back. I cut them to the correct width strips, attached them one by one to the metal strip. Finally, I took the plastic trim piece with the left over fuzzy side of velcro on its underside
and pressed down onto the plastic velcro strips. Its fairly flush all the way down with the exception of both ends. I apologize for not having photos of what I did, not discovering this thread until after the fact.
I only have photos of the trim piece with the broken ends, one of the clips, both metal retainers they would have clipped to along with an example of the HD industrial plastic loop version of Velcro I used.

Rudy

 

I had the same quandary Rudy, not being sure the belt wouldn't break given that the right screw shaft was slightly buggered, And the trim was broken before I got her,
so a fix was in order. Belt was replaced, and I used JB Weld to epoxy the trim back into place. It all held well, and the wind screen worked as designed.
I especially liked the 'auto down' function of the windscreen when putting the top up. It all flowed together and was a blast to drive.
I sold her a few months ago, miss that bugger! I may have to look for another to satisfy the need.
Good luck with yours!

 

Talked to the current owner of my '02 TT today. He's put 10K miles on her without a single issue. Says the more she's driven the
better she runs. Glad he's enjoying her, makes all the time I invested in the rebuild worth it!

 

Hi guys! Audi TT is my old dream. But I was always short of money for it. And I did not want to buy an old one, and a new one was not affordable for me. I moved to New York, https://worldcams.tv/united-states/n...k/times-square, and honestly saying I do not see many of these cars on the streets here. Now I am thinking whether it is worth buying at all.