Hello,

I am about to replace the pads and rotors on my 01 225 coupe. I have been looking around and can't find anything about the rotors, only pads. Do they simply pull off once the caliper is removed, or is the bearing attached?? Also- how hard are they normally to remove? Should I buy a flywheel or gear type puller to remove the rotors?

About brake pads... what are most of you using and where did you get them? I ordered zinnermenn (sp?) drilled rotors already. I don't plan to race, and low noise and dust are somewhat important to me. And is any other aditional parts needed to complete a full brake job (rear brake tool, anti-rattle springs, ect?)?

Any help is great!!

 

Check ECS for the brake tool, it compresses and rotates the caliper piston for reinstallation. I like mintex red box pads, quiet and low dust. Rotors knock off after removing the set screw, good luck HTH-

 

Check Jeff's web page, scroll down, good How To for brakes and rotors.
http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/

I bought the ones from ECS Tuning, cross drilled/slotted/plated Zimmermans. They've held up well.
Might need an impact screw driver to get the rotor screw out. Also a good idea to get new screws for the rotor in case you strip the old ones.
Most Auto places rent the Caliper tool for the rears, some rent at no charge.

 

Yeah the front calipers only need to be compressed, I used a c-clamp.
The rear calipers need to be turned and compressed at the same time. Some people just rent the tool from their local auto parts store.
If you plan on changing your TT's pads regularly, you may wish to consider purchasing the caliper tool.
Pick up a can of brake quiet (get sprayed to the back of the new pads, not the side touching the disc), and WD-40.
You'll need the WD-40 for the aligning screw in the rotor (do you best to save these, might not get any with the new discs).

I have PBR ceramic pads, they're good. Once these wear out I'm going to give Hawks a try.

 

once you have the calipers off.... the rotors haveone alignment screw on each rotor that holds it in place. Be careful, that screw will strip very easily. Tip: Ifthe headstarts to strip out and it hasn't moved at all yet... get some weight on it and turn it the other way (tighter) just to break it free (to break loose the oxidation) and then it'll turn counter clockwise easily after that.

also... once you get the alignment screw out... there's a lot of corrosion and oxidation where the rotor meets the hub/bearing. You WILL need something to hit it with to break it free. I used a rubber dead blow mallet nd hit the rotor from the back to break it loose. I had to hit it pretty hard to finally get the rust to break free. It almost seems like its welded on.