I appreciate the extra experience. Sadly, I haven't had a whole lot of time these last few years to dedicate towards learning as much as I could about this (Army Flight School will make you wonder where 18 months of your life went). I've been mainly been using the help of some of my closest friends from my youth that went on to build DSM monsters. Now that I'm finished and have some down time, I'm finally able to start mapping this project out in order to make sure I cover everything. For instance, knowing that I'm going to have the transmission out then it would be smart to go ahead and put some forged rods and bearings in, new axles/wheel hubs/wheel bearings, and more importantly have one of my fellow pilots (who is an evil machine shop genius) make these steel shift forks. That way I'll eventually be able to refresh the valvetrain, intercooling system and hopefully put a powerful but conservative turbo on. Then just drive the darn thing and maybe startle my wife every now and again. Anyway, I got off on a rant. Thanks again for the experiences and I'll definitely take that into consideration.

Also, a month or two ago a gentleman stopped me (before my clutch decided to die) on Redstone Arsenal here in Huntsville, AL and invited me to join: Welcome to the Audi Club North America Is anyone here a member?

 

Personally I would build a Stroker engine and add simple bolt ons first. Maximize your stock turbo until it blows. Id feel better having a fully built strong engine rather some quick crazy turbo setup. Plus lifes better when you rev to 8k.
There are e86 strokers w/ fmic and turbo backs still on ko4s smash on 350z nismos

 

Another valid point. Are you talking specifically about a particular stroker kit? I think I've seen one that makes the 1.8 into a 2.2. I guess my original intentions were to make the internals better without having to take the engine out for machining or anything of that nature. I'll definitely keep that in mind as I start venturing into where I'm going to take this thing engine wise though. Thanks.

 

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I met E85 in the last post. only piece you need to suport big turbo is rods, which can be done on a lift, no engine removal.

Im currently collecting parts for my 2.0 stroker. uses upgraded rods, tfsi crank and trigger window, 83mm pistons, with a 9.5:1 compression. top end is getting an 98 a4 AEB head(bigger intake ports), supertech package that can rev to 9k tops, and possibly cams, maybe not.

before i go big turbo im trying to setup a new system that will use a gas tank in the trunk i fill with ethanol, manifold design will have 2 injectors per cylinder, 1 for gas/ 1 for E85. gives me 105 octane cheaply and easily switcheable.

sadly though i only have the top half of this build done, spent most my money on soundproofing/ audio at the moment...

 

That's an interesting concept. I would be very interested to see how that turns out.

 

the problem right now is im trying to maximize compression to 10:1 or more so ethanol can be utilized better. Trying to work with IE at the moment to see if longer rods and a thicker gasket are to do the trick.

 

Man... that sounds absolutely awesome. I don't know much about alcohol but having high compression off boost would be great for drivability. Didn't know high compression was good for alcohol... have to look more into that. I wanted to run water/meth, which is what most people do. Not saying do it... if you do the whole dual injector thing that would be way cooler.

One thing I did want to comment on though was the whole part about not pulling the motor. You may have just been saying that for a fun fact but I wanted to make sure you were not relying on that. Not sure how much you know about this stuff ya know? So the rest of this may be pointless. Anyhow, don't get your hopes up that you wouldn't have to pull the motor to do all of this stuff. Sure, you can tear the head off and the oil pan off and swap pistons and rods, but the same can't be said for the crank. I'm 99.99% sure the flywheel bolts directly to it, which you'd have to take the transmission off to get to it. Which, when I had my transmission off, I had everything off the motor one would need to be able to pull it out other than the a/c lines because I had to angle it down under the car to slide the transmission off. So, just putting that out there. If it's to that point... unhook the a/c lines and yank it out and do it on an engine stand or bench or something it will be WAY easier. Rods are fine but you're talking about a different crank too and that's a lot more work. And I can't remember right off what the stock pistons' diameter is but if 83mm is larger than stock then you would obviously need to pull the motor anyhow to have the cylinders overboared. But on the plus side, if you did pull the motor and do rods, pistons, and the crank then you could also do everything else in there like main bearings, seals, and anything else I'm forgetting (someone chime in... i don't have a ton of experience in the bottom end of a motor) becasue all the rest of the stuff is the cheap stuff lol. Also, when the block is at the machine shop getting boared over and or potentially decked to fit the extra stoke of the crank (you may want to research if your larger crank will have clearance issues) have them acid dip the whole block. I'm pretty sure it's relatively inexpensive. But then you have a new motor. Like brand new but better!

But yeah, if you already knew all of this I'm sorry. Just making sure.

 

No need to apologize man. This is my first Audi tear down but not my first vehicle breakdown. That used to be the quickest way for me to make money as a high school student. That is the reason for me trying to orchestrate everything perfectly together. I am going to have the transmission out soon. I also need to replace the oil pan gasket so dropping the crank, rods and pistons for a replacement seemed logical while the car was down to that point. About the only part that I know is going to test my calm is reverse engineering a complete exhaust system. I always hated welding.