So I know there has been a lot of threads on MAFs lately and cleaning. I believe mine is completely crapped out on me. I cleaned it about 4 months ago and everything was good and I've been noticing decreased performance (and getting worse) over the last 3 weeks and today the CEL finally came on. Haven't been able to pull codes yet but car is limping like before. I've pulled my MAF to clean it but I doubt this is going to work again.

I'm going to purchasea newone but what is the difference between the Bosch MAF for $99 and the OEM Bosch MAF for $200+? Can I use the $99 one because that would rock more than shelling out $200+. TIA.


The $$ quoted is from the ECSTuning website. Link below.

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...ategory=Intake

 

bump... no one knows?

I'll call ECS today and ask them but I'm sure they will push me towards the one that cost more $$$.

 

It seems to go by your engine code.


Part # Price Engine code
ES#1326 - $89.95 - AEG, APH, AVC

ES#6105 - $99.95 - AWW, AWP
ES#1907 - $299.95 - AWW, AWP
ES#3834 - $124.95 - Remanufactured AWW, AWP

ES#1581 - $229.95 - ATC ONLY
ES#4094 - $128.87 - Remanufactured ATC ONLY

 

My engine code is AWP so I guess the $99 is going to work then. My question is whats the diff between the $99AWP MAF and the $299AWP MAF?

 

Is there a variation on the ecu for engines with AWP codes? I'm not sure, call them and find out.

 

How did you clean your MAF and how did you know that you needed to, I may need to clean mine? Is there any way to just buy the sensor and not the housing. If so you can upgrade it with the modshack MAF.

 

4mos ago my CEL came on with the code P0171 sys too lean bank 1. this CEL came with a limp mode also. All signs pointed to bad MAF and I was told to clean it. So i pulled it from the car (just the sensor, not the housing) and cleaned with electrical cleaner. put it back in the car, cleared the code and off I went. CEL is back with limp mode. Code P0171 was pulled this morning again from Autozone.

 

$200 [sm=happybounce.gif]

 

If I remember right from a while back, try disconnecting the MAF from the connector and drive the car without it hooked up. If the car seems to do a little better then it is probably the MAF. If it does the same then might be something else. I remember this from a couple of months ago on here so maybe try looking back some too.

 

definitely the MAF. Not my question. There are a few MAFs on ECSTuning.com and as Steve so kindly pointed out the APPARENT and OBVIOUS difference is $200!! [sm=thanx.gif]